Clutch Installation
Clutch Installation
I am going to install a new clutch in my 1995 F150 5.0 4x4. I have installed numerous clutches in my past but this will be my first attempt on this truck and first with a transfer case. Basically I want to make sure I have all of the parts needed. The mechanical function I have nailed down. Truck is all stock. I know I'll need a new disk (is it 11 dia. 1-1/16-10 spline?), pressure plate, pilot bearing (I always put a new one in). This will be my first hydraulic clutch change. Should I purchase a new slave (release bearing) and take no chances by replacing it? I also read somewhere that a gasket is needed that goes between the tranny and transfer case? So here is my parts list:
Clutch disk
Pressure plate
Slave release bearing
Pilot bearing
Gasket (tranny/T-C)
Rear seal (one piece)
I also want to install a new rear seal while this is all apart. Any tips or how to's on this?
Anything else that I'l need?
Any removal tips that anone can share would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Doug
Clutch disk
Pressure plate
Slave release bearing
Pilot bearing
Gasket (tranny/T-C)
Rear seal (one piece)
I also want to install a new rear seal while this is all apart. Any tips or how to's on this?
Anything else that I'l need?
Any removal tips that anone can share would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Doug
Clutch Installation
Yes , Replace the slave valve . The Ford slave valves will come with the T/O bearing attached so you wont have to purchase it seperately . Replacing the rear seal is easy , remove the old one & slowly & easily tap around the new seal until its seated in the same position as the original one . Put it in place , & using the edge of your hand to hold it in place , Use a 3/8 extension & lightly tap around the seal until its seated . Place a light coating of grease around the seal lip . Most have the flywheel resurfaced or replace it . If you have any trans or TC leaks now is the time to repair those . The pilot bearing will likely be very hard to remove , the last one I did I thought it was welded in place . If you have air tools its about an 8 to 10 hr job if you dont run into any snags . Youll also need a torque wrench .
Clutch Installation
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 23-Mar-02 AT 09:27 AM (EST)]I did my clutch without removing the transfercase. Just slide the trans/transfercase back as a unit, supporting it. Others have posted here that they have done the same. Search through past posts. If you do NOT want to replace the slave cylinder, then there is no need to disconnect the line, there is enough slack in the line to slide the trans back far enough... my slave cylinder did end up leaking, a few years after I did my clutch.
Clutch Installation
I ordered a new Ram clutch kit from Summitt. With it I'm getting a new slave. I figure for @ $60 It is better to replace it than not for that price. I have a pilot bearing jaw type puller that works like a charm. I figure the pilot is about identical to my 5.0 Mustangs that I've done. With setting up the jaws and pulling the bearing. I've never (knock on wood) took more than 3-5 minutes to pull it. Thanks for all of the help so far.
Doug
Doug
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Bubba Jones
1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
5
May 19, 2016 09:08 AM






