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I have a 1972 F250 2WD. It's got a 360 in it that is very, very ill.
I've never removed an engine or rebuilt one but am going to give it a shot on this motor. It's my granny's truck she bought new in 72 so has sentimental value. I have pretty much everything removed from the engine except intake manifold. I have 2 transmission cooler lines and the 2 motor mounts to disconnect and then she's ready to come out. Few questions:
1. I bought the carb hoise plate. Can I just drop that on to the bolts that are there, then put the nuts on and hoist it WITH the transmission attached? Seems like those little bolts would strip.
2. What bolts do I need to bolt it to the 2 ton Harbor Freight engine stand?
Hoist plates are intended to pull the engine without an attached transmission. See, unless the core support is removed the engine/trans assembly will have to be tilted to clear the engine bay. Kinda doable with strong helping hands but with the trans attached, use a tilting engine sling.
REGARDLESS.... lifting a 650-lb FE will get tippy up high so make sure the work surface is level, avoid jerky movements, and go slowly and methodically lest that FE come crashing down on your rig... NOT GOOD!
For bolt size I think it's 7/16" 14 thread per inch. 3" long.
anyone know if the front cross member needs to come out to pull the engine and transmission as one connected unit? Also anyone know what size bolts the engine mounts use. I cant even see em under the engine mount.
Front cross member? Are you talking about the cross member under the engine?? If that is what you are talking about... not gonna happen with the engine still in there.
For the engine mounts, reach up under the engine stands/mounts. You should find a nut. Think it takes a 3/4" socket.
Tranny lines.. just cut them as close to the tranny as you can. Been sitting for 15 years.. how rusted are they? New lines are cheap!
If it was me trying to pull that motor/tranny out with a HF 2 ton engine hoist, I would pull the intake/heads/dizzy/engine fan/alternator/power steering pump/starter off the engine BEFORE attempting to lift it out.
Reason being is that with the engine hoist when stretched out to the max is:
1-pushing the limits of being safe. Safe as in balance. Too much weight at the end of the boom is going to kick the hoist back out and will drop the engine back where it came from.
2-roll that hoist up to the front of the truck with the lift hook as high up above the rad as you can. Now take a measurement from the highest point of the truck to the hook. Now take a measurement from the bottom of the oil pan to the highest point of the engine... not a whole lot of wiggle room... if any... now take into consideration that the tranny is gonna add a whole lot more counter weight to it and going to make it harder to maneuver and remove.
If you have a pair of junk rims with out tires, mount them on the front. It will lower the front end therefore giving more wiggle room to work with.
Don't forget to plug the tailstock off the tranny after you pull the driveshaft. As soon as you get some angle while lifting. ATF is going to run out.
If it possible, TRY finding some place where you can beg-borrow-steal-rent a gantry and chainfalls. Would be safer and less chance for Obamacare to be used...
Now please don't take this as a put down towards you and how much experience you have or don't have, but sometimes chit happens when we don't expect it..and murphys law is a bietch.
Front cross member? Are you talking about the cross member under the engine?? If that is what you are talking about... not gonna happen with the engine still in there.
For the engine mounts, reach up under the engine stands/mounts. You should find a nut. Think it takes a 3/4" socket.
Tranny lines.. just cut them as close to the tranny as you can. Been sitting for 15 years.. how rusted are they? New lines are cheap!
If it was me trying to pull that motor/tranny out with a HF 2 ton engine hoist, I would pull the intake/heads/dizzy/engine fan/alternator/power steering pump/starter off the engine BEFORE attempting to lift it out.
Reason being is that with the engine hoist when stretched out to the max is:
1-pushing the limits of being safe. Safe as in balance. Too much weight at the end of the boom is going to kick the hoist back out and will drop the engine back where it came from.
2-roll that hoist up to the front of the truck with the lift hook as high up above the rad as you can. Now take a measurement from the highest point of the truck to the hook. Now take a measurement from the bottom of the oil pan to the highest point of the engine... not a whole lot of wiggle room... if any... now take into consideration that the tranny is gonna add a whole lot more counter weight to it and going to make it harder to maneuver and remove.
If you have a pair of junk rims with out tires, mount them on the front. It will lower the front end therefore giving more wiggle room to work with.
Don't forget to plug the tailstock off the tranny after you pull the driveshaft. As soon as you get some angle while lifting. ATF is going to run out.
If it possible, TRY finding some place where you can beg-borrow-steal-rent a gantry and chainfalls. Would be safer and less chance for Obamacare to be used...
Now please don't take this as a put down towards you and how much experience you have or don't have, but sometimes chit happens when we don't expect it..and murphys law is a bietch.
Pulling the front clip on these trucks is amazingly easy and makes life much easier. Three bolts on each side where the inner fender connects to the firewall mounted stubs, a bolt lower on the inner fenderwell that holds it to the firewall via a rubber strap (accessible from the wheelwell), a bolt at the bottom rear of the fender, a bolt below the upper door hinge, and the two radiator support bolts. Unplug the wiring, unbolt the heater hose clamp, and undo the radiator hoses then have a friend help you lift it up and off. If you have access to a forklift, a strap wrapped around the hood on the rear edge of the badges will balance it just right.
Once the front clip is off, you can pull the engine without lifting it as high.
I have installed a "mirror 105" FE block with one of those carb plates, it worked well. I removed the carb studs and used 5/16-18 grade 8 bolts instead.
I have modified one of those plates to lift and install a 6.0 diesel using the oil cooler mount bolts, which are M8 bolts, but I don't know how one of those plates would behave with an engine and transmission hanging off it.
Pulling the front clip on these trucks is amazingly easy and makes life much easier. Three bolts on each side where the inner fender connects to the firewall mounted stubs, a bolt lower on the inner fenderwell that holds it to the firewall via a rubber strap (accessible from the wheelwell), a bolt at the bottom rear of the fender, a bolt below the upper door hinge, and the two radiator support bolts. Unplug the wiring, unbolt the heater hose clamp, and undo the radiator hoses then have a friend help you lift it up and off. If you have access to a forklift, a strap wrapped around the hood on the rear edge of the badges will balance it just right.
Once the front clip is off, you can pull the engine without lifting it as high.
I have installed a "mirror 105" FE block with one of those carb plates, it worked well. I removed the carb studs and used 5/16-18 grade 8 bolts instead.
I have modified one of those plates to lift and install a 6.0 diesel using the oil cooler mount bolts, which are M8 bolts, but I don't know how one of those plates would behave with an engine and transmission hanging off it.
I made my own plate to pull a 6.0 out of a 2008 E-450 but I made it to fit the turbo mounting stand. The oil cooler is at the front of the block so it would be really tail heavy.
Pulling the front clip on these trucks is amazingly easy and makes life much easier. Three bolts on each side where the inner fender connects to the firewall mounted stubs, a bolt lower on the inner fenderwell that holds it to the firewall via a rubber strap (accessible from the wheelwell), a bolt at the bottom rear of the fender, a bolt below the upper door hinge, and the two radiator support bolts. Unplug the wiring, unbolt the heater hose clamp, and undo the radiator hoses then have a friend help you lift it up and off. If you have access to a forklift, a strap wrapped around the hood on the rear edge of the badges will balance it just right.
Once the front clip is off, you can pull the engine without lifting it as high.
I have installed a "mirror 105" FE block with one of those carb plates, it worked well. I removed the carb studs and used 5/16-18 grade 8 bolts instead.
I have modified one of those plates to lift and install a 6.0 diesel using the oil cooler mount bolts, which are M8 bolts, but I don't know how one of those plates would behave with an engine and transmission hanging off it.
Starting to think this is the right way to go. Have a tilt thingy for the hoist but even then that motor and tranny is gonna have to get up pretty dang high. Gonna give it a shot without removing the front clip but i bet it ends up havi g to come off. Which is fine cause shes gonna get fiberglass fenders and a bit of a prerunner treatment anyways. Also starting to think about dropping a 460 in her if that 360 block isnt any good.
I never liked pulling motor/tranny together and pulling it out over the core with marginal equipment is just too risky. Stabbing it back and keepinth things balanced is tough. Yeah the guys on tv do it but they cut most of the frustrating parts, and guys who wrench and weld in shorts and flipflops shouldn't be imitated anyway,lol.
I never liked pulling motor/tranny together and pulling it out over the core with marginal equipment is just too risky. Stabbing it back and keepinth things balanced is tough. Yeah the guys on tv do it but they cut most of the frustrating parts, and guys who wrench and weld in shorts and flipflops shouldn't be imitated anyway,lol.
lol. If that 360 comes down on my toe its gonna take the entire foot off i'm pretty sure.
Tough!
