My 1992 f250 7.3idi will not charge, ahead new alternator, batteries, and new regulator. Can pull start and runs fine and everything has power, but as soon and you shut the truck off and try to start it back up.. nothing. Doesn't have enough power to turn the radio on. Anybody else had this problem? It wasn't a problem till the 6.4 went back down.

 

Ignition switch?

 

Have you externally charged and LOAD tested the batteries? Have you measured the voltage at the batteries while the engine is running, esp. revved up, and with the glow plugs not running?

Does "pull start" correctly imply it's a manual transmission? If so, check the clutch start switch. Does the clutch pedal action feel normal?

 

yes it is a manual, the clutch feels normal and if the batteries are charged up with the battery charger itll start just like normal but once the battery power drains off it goes dead and the starter just clicks, once it's pull started though everything powers up as usual, radio, headlights, even the electric lumbar support works. The voltage regulator is grounded to the body where it bolts up correct? I saw in another forum that somebody grounded from the alternator to the regulator and from the regulator to the battery and it charged better? Not sure how exactly that would make it charge better but it sounds better than what I've figured out on my own.. also my multi meter was. Borrowed and never returned so I have not been able to read out what exactly the batteries are putting out.

 

check the fusible links. sounds the one for ignition power is burned and not letting the alternator energize.

 

So lets see if I get this straight:
1. You go out to the truck, try to crank it - dead.
2. You put a battery charger on the truck
3. Crank it and she fires right up.
4. Wait a while, and try to crank again - dead.

If this is true, chances are you have a drain on the battery(like multiple lights on, or the alternator partially shorted out(it would get hot though). Try running the truck, and then disconnecting the batteries. Wait a day, reconnect and try to start.

Also... get a multimeter! Harbor freight has them for like $5!
It's basically required for troubleshooting electrical systems.

 

Those cheapo Harbor Fright multimeters are awful. I got one for free with a separate purchase, and it broke within a few minutes of use. Wire came apart with zero effort.

Never buy anything from Harbor Fright.

 

I've had the probes come off the wire ends of several brands of meter. Still works.

 

Harbor freight multimeters certainly aren't high quality, but for the price they are well worth it for basic troubleshooting. You can sometimes get them for free which is even better.
i have a few in different vehicles and they haven't failed me yet. I use higher quality multimeters at home, but when on the road a cheap one is far better than nothing.

Back to the problem at hand, if you don't have a multimeter to test anything, try a place like AutoZone that can see if you're alternator is properly charging. They may be able to check out the batteries too.

 

Yup, exactly this.
The $5/free multimeters aren't great... but(as long as they are still wired up), they are accurate enough.

The plastic leads don't do well in the cold, though - they get hard and brittle.

The $20 "higher end" ones at HFT, however... I have one of those and it hasn't failed me yet.

It's the same thing with other HFT stuff - their higher end line is 'pretty good', the lower end stuff is... meh.

I've got a 12" miter saw I've used quite a bit for 3+ years now. Still works just fine, for 1/3 the cost of a DeWalt or Ridgid. And seems to do as good a job(I've used the DeWalt at work)

I've also got lots of Harbor Freight hand tools, ratchets and sockets. I haven't broken any of them really - I destroyed one 3/8" ratchet being used as a stopper on the other side of the bolt as my 1,000 ft-lb impact wrench. Not exactly normal use.

I've abused a lot of said stuff though - I use a 1/4 hex drive dewalt impact driver a /lot/ with adapters and my (not impact rated) harbor freight sockets. I've broken a couple of adapters over the years, but not any sockets.

So... I'm not convinced that harbor freight is crap. It's certainly doing well enough for what I need, at a small fraction of what I would pay for 'quality' tools like Craftsman or the like.

 

^^^^^ You realize, all the hand tools you mention having broken, you can get replaced free, just like with Craftsman tools, right?

 

Yup... It's great!

I've only ended up replacing one tool, though, a 3/8 impact universal. Pin finally gave out.

The others... Pretty sure that the hex-to-square adapters don't count as hand tools(they are only a couple of $ though), and the one socket I cracked(after rattling on something with an impact for several minutes), I was going to... and then had the set(and a bunch of other stuff) stolen from my truck box before I ended up doing it.

I'm going to have to see if they'll replace a "pittsburgh" (not PRO) brand ratchet I got in this set: 64 Piece 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" Socket Set
It does say lifetime warranty, though, so...

 

You have a voltmeter on the dash.
[ _____NORMAL_____]

NORMAL is the range of 11 to 14

M is about 12.6V
A is about 13.3
L is about 14.0

The left extreme "[" is about 10V

See what it reads when you put the key to ACC or Run.
On Start with gps or cranking, it should drop no more than the left "[", about 10V.

If you have a test light light, insert in in series with the + batt cable when the engine is off. If there is a battery drain, the light will light dimly.

Disconnect + batt connection and then place the test light between the + post and the + clamp.