Timing Cover Replacement Question
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Sask, Canada
Timing Cover Replacement Question
I have a coolant leak from behind my timing cover found while doing a coolant system pressure test. I do not want to remove the engine. Is there any threads out there or does anyone know of a successful cover install with the engine still in the truck?
Any help is appreciated.
Any help is appreciated.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,288
Likes: 269
From: North of Greenville
The coolant leak is most likely from either your water pump shaft seal or engine oil cooler (cooler is on the driver side below the valve cover gasket, and it's front head is right underneath your alternator on the side of the block. Neither require pulling the engine. In fact, even if you need to remove the front cover, all you have to do is pull the fan and water pump (maybe alternator and PS bracket, too).
Who did the cooling system pressure test? You, or a shop?
Pictures would be helpful.
Who did the cooling system pressure test? You, or a shop?
Pictures would be helpful.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Sask, Canada
The leak is coming from behind the passenger side of the timing cover. What I'm really looking for is a step by step procedure for the removal of the cover without removing the engine. A majority of what's posted refers to removing the engine. Not what I want to do right now.
I did the pressure test with my friend who's a mechanic with his tester. We found the spot where it was coming from behind the cover with a mirror. It's below the mount for the AC compressor and it's very hard to see without a mirror. I may remove the AC compressor and mount and put it to the side and do another test.
I did the pressure test with my friend who's a mechanic with his tester. We found the spot where it was coming from behind the cover with a mirror. It's below the mount for the AC compressor and it's very hard to see without a mirror. I may remove the AC compressor and mount and put it to the side and do another test.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,288
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From: North of Greenville
OK. You're further along and deeper into this than I thought. It also goes beyond my experience. Others will chime in soon. In my own quick searching, I found one guy who said he had done the timing cover without pulling the engine, and would never do it that way again.
A few more notes I've run across... the timing cover can be done with the engine in the truck, but you have to drop the oil pan anyway in order to get to the bottom two bolts which hold the pickup tube in place. Once you do that, it is commonly held that you'll never get a good clean seal on the bottom of the block for re-sealing and you'll begin to experience oil pan leaks. The only REAL fix for that is pulling the engine and removing and resealing the pan with the engine upside down. Ford's Shop Time is a little under 15 hours for a timing cover gasket job, depending on what you run into during removal and re-installation of the engine itself.
A few more notes I've run across... the timing cover can be done with the engine in the truck, but you have to drop the oil pan anyway in order to get to the bottom two bolts which hold the pickup tube in place. Once you do that, it is commonly held that you'll never get a good clean seal on the bottom of the block for re-sealing and you'll begin to experience oil pan leaks. The only REAL fix for that is pulling the engine and removing and resealing the pan with the engine upside down. Ford's Shop Time is a little under 15 hours for a timing cover gasket job, depending on what you run into during removal and re-installation of the engine itself.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Sask, Canada
The reason I don't want to pull my engine is I just did my oil pan before Christmas. You may have confirmed what I may not want to hear that I'm pulling my engine.....again.
Thanks for your feedback.
Thanks for your feedback.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,368
Likes: 595
From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
The front cover really should be done with the engine on a stand, particularly since the oil pan needs to come off to do it. Once it's out and on the stand, it's a pretty straightforward job.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,288
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From: North of Greenville
That kind of confirmation is more like Monday morning news than would otherwise be hoped for on a Friday afternoon. It is what it is, though.
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Hotshot
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From: Las Cruces New Mexico
Also in addition to the new seals need for the job you will also require to seal parts of the front cover with RTV. That's why it's crucial when having an engine out to reseal all of the engine IMO just remove it and do it right.
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It can be done. It won't be fun. You'll need to disconnect the engine mounts, jack the motor, twist, bend, and cuss about every possibility you can think of to do it though. The oil pan is going to have to be dropped to get the pick up tube unbolted. Removing the turbo will give you more room to jack the engine when you do this, but isn't required.
The oil will drip for close to a week, so plan some time to make sure the pan and seat is dry before you try and re-install it. If you get that RTV on oil, the pan won't seal.
It might seem more scary to remove the motor, but you'll just about be there anyway with the exception of removing the front clip by the time you get everything disconnected and jacked up to get the oil pan dropped and the front cover removed.
The oil will drip for close to a week, so plan some time to make sure the pan and seat is dry before you try and re-install it. If you get that RTV on oil, the pan won't seal.
It might seem more scary to remove the motor, but you'll just about be there anyway with the exception of removing the front clip by the time you get everything disconnected and jacked up to get the oil pan dropped and the front cover removed.
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