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What Milliam and Orich both said has it's merits. A propane and iso-butane mixture will work just fine. in the older systems. But the chance of a fire is a boat-load higher than R12 or R134A. R134A can not move as much heat (AKA cool) as R12 (and definentialy not as much as propane), and the molacules in R134A are clustered tighter together (smaller) than R12. The R134A will leak through the older type R12 hoses. So that's why if you switch from R12 over to R134A, you better change hoses too. Also the oil for the compressor is different for the R12 & R134A. The dryer must be changed when converting from R12 to R134A too. I think the comment about R22 was a typo. R22 runs at a much higher pressure than a truck/car system could handle for any amount of time. And R22 is going to be replaced too by R410A. If I had AC, I would opt for R134A, new compressor, dryer, and hoses.
Aw R22 was not a typo!
R22 has the same fittings as R12 this why AC shop check Auto systems for ANY contamination first. And ac shop where, I get new hoses made up and done business with the past 20 yrs. They will would service R12 the last time , I was at there shop may be 2 yrs ago.
And also told me old R12 system hoses that have been use for a number of yrs won't leak r134 since it was pressurizes with oil that acts as barrier that keeps the r134 from leaking through it.
Not like NEW old stock of R12 single barrier hose unused hose.
But since they are changing an old R12 system is being converted over to r134a they have to remove the hoses to crimp on the new hose ends an service ports they just use the new double barrier hoses.
My two cents, I had the same unit you currently have in your truck, I sent my unit up to classic auto air in tampa where they took it apart and completely restored it, Blows super cold and heat is hot as hell! not that we use the heat here in florida. Keep it classic
What Milliam and Orich both said has it's merits. A propane and iso-butane mixture will work just fine. in the older systems. But the chance of a fire is a boat-load higher than R12 or R134A. R134A can not move as much heat (AKA cool) as R12 (and definentialy not as much as propane), and the molacules in R134A are clustered tighter together (smaller) than R12. The R134A will leak through the older type R12 hoses. So that's why if you switch from R12 over to R134A, you better change hoses too. Also the oil for the compressor is different for the R12 & R134A. The dryer must be changed when converting from R12 to R134A too. I think the comment about R22 was a typo. R22 runs at a much higher pressure than a truck/car system could handle for any amount of time. And R22 is going to be replaced too by R410A. If I had AC, I would opt for R134A, new compressor, dryer, and hoses.
Yeah I'm exploring all options, if I did switch to R134A I'll change Compressor, dryer, orifice tube and hoses, even my fan motor. I already knew about the leakage issue, no biggie to need a recharge every so often. I can do these myself as I've installed a complete system before, but I'll see if I'm up to it. I see you can still find R12. A wide price range, mostly sky high though, so I can go that way as well, if it cost effective. The previous owner (my brother in law) said it worked fine until the compressor went out. I'm going to check if it's still under pressure, if it is that's a good sign to stay with R12. Another interesting thing, while shopping for a compressor I thought it had a 360, wasn't positive so I checked, it has the 390. Although it didn't matter for the compressor it would have been a big deal for other parts.
My two cents, I had the same unit you currently have in your truck, I sent my unit up to classic auto air in tampa where they took it apart and completely restored it, Blows super cold and heat is hot as hell! not that we use the heat here in florida. Keep it classic
I'm keeping it as close to original as possible, but lets face it these trucks will never be 100% original. I live in south Louisiana and it ain't exactly cool, my daughter lives in Florida so I feel ya'.
Yeah I'm exploring all options, if I did switch to R134A I'll change Compressor, dryer, orifice tube and hoses, even my fan motor. I already knew about the leakage issue, no biggie to need a recharge every so often. I can do these myself as I've installed a complete system before, but I'll see if I'm up to it. I see you can still find R12. A wide price range, mostly sky high though, so I can go that way as well, if it cost effective. The previous owner (my brother in law) said it worked fine until the compressor went out. I'm going to check if it's still under pressure, if it is that's a good sign to stay with R12. Another interesting thing, while shopping for a compressor I thought it had a 360, wasn't positive so I checked, it has the 390. Although it didn't matter for the compressor it would have been a big deal for other parts.
Do definitely change the dryer. No matter which system you install. As soon as a system is opened up the dryer (or accumulator) should be changed. Freon sucks moisture out of the air fast like brake fluid. Or if the system is completely empty and open the free air's moisture in the hoses and cores needs to be trapped in a new dryer.
Do definitely change the dryer. No matter which system you install. As soon as a system is opened up the dryer (or accumulator) should be changed. Freon sucks moisture out of the air fast like brake fluid. Or if the system is completely empty and open the free air's moisture in the hoses and cores needs to be trapped in a new dryer.
I'm going to bleed the system so yeah that's a good idea, thanks for reminding me. If I install the new parts I'll have it put under vacuum then charged. Right now I'm waiting for new eagle rims center caps to come in (they got damaged while taking it off a trailer I was told) so I can change my tires. At 50 the front end and steering wheel shakes badly. I was advised to try that first since the truck sat up for a long time. If that doesn't work, then front end problems. I have the original two piece rims with caps and tires but those tires look to be in bad shape otherwise I'd try them out first. A blow out with two piece rims at highway speeds ain't pretty.
I'd try getting the tires all balanced that should take care of the front end shaking.
Orich
Yes of course but here's the thing two tires were ruined getting it off the trailer (the guys had too many beers?) he bought used tires (different trends/brands). Ironically I sent him to the place to buy them as I used them once myself. I would just like to start fresh knowing what I have. The other issue is the original tires were 29.9 in, these are about 35.0. I'm going to try to size the tires as close to the original tires circumference as possible.
The Eagles are nice but I'd like to get new steel wheels and tires to make it look original later on, I have the original caps. When I was a kid 100 years ago, I worked at a service station (remember those) they wouldn't let me even touch two piece rims. They are dangerous, they used a cage, chain or filled them with air having the ring facing down. I've seen one jump 6 feet in the air, one guy split his hand open to the bone. I don't even know if they still service split rims, I'll keep them for when/if I sell the truck. I am using one as a spare for now though.
Last edited by cyretired2; Apr 19, 2017 at 08:52 AM.
Reason: picture
, I worked at a service station (remember those) they wouldn't let me even touch two piece rims. They are dangerous, they used a cage, chain or filled them with air having the ring facing down. I've seen one jump 6 feet in the air, one guy split his hand open to the bone. I don't even know if they still service split rims
, I'll keep them for when/if I sell the truck. I am using one as a spare for now though.
