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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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Old Apr 13, 2017 | 09:02 PM
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Time Crunch Build

Hey, I've been a long time lurker on this website and have gained a lot of useful knowledge from reading others issues/mistakes/successes. I now have a chance to post my own build thread, although I will assuredly need some help along the way still!

I bought my third 70's ford pickup earlier this year with plans to use it to haul my 1981 Mastercraft to and from the lake. The truck is a 1979 F150 400 T18 4x4 ranger that was originally jade green. She runs nearly perfect but is really tough to look at.


So I looked and looked for a bed to replace but with no luck. So i figured that purchasing a complete truck will probably be my best option. After some searching I found a 1975 F100 302 2wd auto about 3 hr from me with the body in much better condition (not perfect, but hey i'm in VA...we live with rust).




SO, I now have to swap the body and the bed in time to make it to the lake in a few weeks. As of right now front clip is off, bed is loose and cab will be loose tomorrow on donor truck. Am I crazy for trying this? What should I look out for as I am cutting a hole for the clutch/ trans tunnel etc? I heard that there is not as much clearance in an auto tunnel.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2017 | 09:39 PM
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mountain dewd
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From: O-O-O-Oreilly's
The truck you bought it awful pretty. Methinks you should enjoy having two dents.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2017 | 10:18 PM
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75 and 79 I believe some wiring differences? You are swapping the complete body and frame harnesses.

Careful how you lift the cabs off, you do not want to damage the doors or drip rail if using a tractor/skid steer, straps. 6 man lift for the cab, if you have all ate your Wheaties.

After you get the better body on the 4wd chassis, and hit the lake for a bit. Then put the primer body on the doner frame and flip sale it.

You know you might need to talk to you DMV about what to do about the titles...Vi# goes to the frame.

2wd cab trans hump not removable, 4wd trans hump is removable. Maybe use a body saw and cut the 2wd cab hump out and graft the 4wd in place?
 
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Old Apr 14, 2017 | 08:43 AM
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My wife and I pulled the body off one truck and swapped in onto another the next weekend. Honestly I think it can be done in two days. The wiring harness from the 79' will have to be transfered to the new body, the 75' harness if different.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2017 | 07:22 PM
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update

I worked on the trucks all day Saturday and have everything unhooked and ready to swap. The bed on the 79 was rusted through and through and every bolt spun. That was a chore to take off. Thanks for the tip on the wiring harnesses, I plan on stealing a couple more parts to finish it all off.




I have a large front loader john deere tractor with either a pallet fork or a bale spear to use to hook up to the cab and bed. does anyone have any experience with this? should i just strap though the doors? isnt the cab pretty front heavy?
 
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Old Apr 17, 2017 | 12:38 AM
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Not through the doors. Take them off. Lift with a 4x4 length of wood under the top of door openings and strap or chain around the wood at both ends. Never strap under drip rails or doors themselves. Two men can lift and carry a bare cab.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2017 | 10:25 AM
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What he said^^^^^^ I have done several the same way and have left the doors on. Just open the doors and cut your 4x4 to an appropriate length......Pad between the 4x4 and where it will contact the cab with some old rugs, carpet, or towels.......make sure that your sling will not contact the drip rails when you pick up the weight and place the 4x4 towards the front of the door opening (IIRC there is a seam just behind where the front of the door comes up that is a good starting point to get the cab balanced with the doors on........good luck!!!!
 
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Old Apr 30, 2017 | 09:36 PM
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harness differences

so does anyone know exactly what the differences are between my two wiring harnesses? (75 vs 79, auto 2wd vs 4spd 4x4)

and if anyone has a copy of the wiring diagrams for these two i would love to take a look! (i know i know i need to get me a chiltons etc)

 
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Old May 1, 2017 | 12:41 PM
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1973/76 F100/350 Stylesides with exposed fuel caps use different fuel filler tubes and filler hoses than 1977/79 F100/350 Stylesides with fuel doors.

1973/75's with oil/amp WARNING LAMPS use a different printed circuit board than 1975's with oil/amp GAUGES.

1979's with oil/amp WARNING LAMPS use a different printed circuit board than 1976/79's with oil/amp GAUGES.

1975/79 instrument cluster backs are specific to either oil/amp WARNING LAMPS or oil/amp GAUGES.

1973/77's use different T/S switches than 1978/79. 1978/79's without Speed Control do not have a horn relay.

1973/76's use a different ignition switch than 1978/79. 1977 ignition switch is 1977 only. 1978/79's use a different headlamp switch than 1973/77.
 
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Old May 2, 2017 | 06:46 AM
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Great! I have two trucks to pick parts from so I will be using all the compatible parts in the older 75 cab.

Thanks so much, this is exactly what I was needing.....now if only my parts would come in from LMC
 
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