Hot crank no start
#1
Hot crank no start
Was on a previous thread continuing on this one
So truck was running fine then I shut it off one day and it wouldn't start back up long powerful cranks but wouldn't start pulled the valve covers checked branchtubes and dummy plugs all looked good (not for sure though)
replaced the icp and even tried unplugging it after the hot crank no start to see if that helped because that was the only a code I threw but alas it did not help
i did a air test and closed the IPR valve via fancy tool and was getting some minor gurgling out of the oil filter resivuar and was guided to change the hpop being that was the beloved issue I couldn't get the j-tube out to inspect but everything else was clean as a whistle ... I was getting some air flow threw the oil filler cap and the air intake box on the driver's side valve cover but was told that is normal but not sure how normal when I replaced hpop it appears it stopped gurgling as much when I did the following air test but it started when cold but then it struggled but it did start then my batteries died out turns out I do have a bad negative connection I getting the batteries re charged gonna pick them up today and tighten that connection to see if that helps along with a new air filter via reading in the hanes manual that can sometimes cause a hot crank no start
Need help I paying 40 a day to have it in our autoshop on fort Carson .. while cheeper than a mechanics shop it is adding up it has bin in there for almost 2 weeks
So truck was running fine then I shut it off one day and it wouldn't start back up long powerful cranks but wouldn't start pulled the valve covers checked branchtubes and dummy plugs all looked good (not for sure though)
replaced the icp and even tried unplugging it after the hot crank no start to see if that helped because that was the only a code I threw but alas it did not help
i did a air test and closed the IPR valve via fancy tool and was getting some minor gurgling out of the oil filter resivuar and was guided to change the hpop being that was the beloved issue I couldn't get the j-tube out to inspect but everything else was clean as a whistle ... I was getting some air flow threw the oil filler cap and the air intake box on the driver's side valve cover but was told that is normal but not sure how normal when I replaced hpop it appears it stopped gurgling as much when I did the following air test but it started when cold but then it struggled but it did start then my batteries died out turns out I do have a bad negative connection I getting the batteries re charged gonna pick them up today and tighten that connection to see if that helps along with a new air filter via reading in the hanes manual that can sometimes cause a hot crank no start
Need help I paying 40 a day to have it in our autoshop on fort Carson .. while cheeper than a mechanics shop it is adding up it has bin in there for almost 2 weeks
#2
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Salt Lake City, utah
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After a job like the HPOP it's going to take some cranking to get it to fire as it needs to fill with oil then pressure it up. So while cranking remove the FICM relay and do short burst cranks allowing the starter to cool down in between. Also keep the batteries charged up.
After it fires it will run rough for a little while as it needs to purge the air out. So if possible start it and drive for a few miles and it should clear out.
What brand HPOP did you install?
After it fires it will run rough for a little while as it needs to purge the air out. So if possible start it and drive for a few miles and it should clear out.
What brand HPOP did you install?
#3
#5
Start with the basics
Are you cranking at 150 or more rpm?
Cranking voltage greater than 10?
Are you getting BOTH cam/crank sync and FICM sync?
Is the secondary fuel filter bowl filling with fuel rapidly when cranking?
(pull FICM relay to crank, or crank w/ the starter wire at the passenger firewall when you want to crank w/ the secondary filter cap off).
Are you cranking at 150 or more rpm?
Cranking voltage greater than 10?
Are you getting BOTH cam/crank sync and FICM sync?
Is the secondary fuel filter bowl filling with fuel rapidly when cranking?
(pull FICM relay to crank, or crank w/ the starter wire at the passenger firewall when you want to crank w/ the secondary filter cap off).
#6
Start with the basics
Are you cranking at 150 or more rpm?
Cranking voltage greater than 10?
Are you getting BOTH cam/crank sync and FICM sync?
Is the secondary fuel filter bowl filling with fuel rapidly when cranking?
(pull FICM relay to crank, or crank w/ the starter wire at the passenger firewall when you want to crank w/ the secondary filter cap off).
Are you cranking at 150 or more rpm?
Cranking voltage greater than 10?
Are you getting BOTH cam/crank sync and FICM sync?
Is the secondary fuel filter bowl filling with fuel rapidly when cranking?
(pull FICM relay to crank, or crank w/ the starter wire at the passenger firewall when you want to crank w/ the secondary filter cap off).
Ficm sync and cam crank sync are good via xscanguage II
Secondary fuel filter is filling (but is staying there when I take it and the filter out ? Normal or not ?) And after running it it seems that diesel is kinda coming out the top bolth filters where replaced about 2000 miles ago with Fram fuel filters and new orings
Everything starts right up when it is cold just when it gets to normal temp won't re start when I turn it off(I know I keep repeating that but just Makin sure )
My wife is going to go get some parts today (dummy plugs ) are they actually called dummy plugs ? And does anybody have a part number for them and a suggested type I should get ? Or anyother parts I should be getting today or if I shouldn't get the dummy plugs quite yet I do have to try to drive it home today when it starts it should be fine right seems how I had to drive it 30 miles to get there ?
#7
Is she going to the dealer? They should know part numbers but if not here you go. Hint, took about ten seconds to google...as I mentioned before knowledge is power whenever you go into a dealer or parts store. They know you know what you are talking about
you probably know the valve cover gaskets are reusable, just wipe them down good and the rocker box surface, good to go.
Here are the fuel filters.
A FRAM has no place anywhere in this engine. Period. you have better luck with TP. Only Motorcraft, can get these at walmart for less.
you probably know the valve cover gaskets are reusable, just wipe them down good and the rocker box surface, good to go.
Here are the fuel filters.
A FRAM has no place anywhere in this engine. Period. you have better luck with TP. Only Motorcraft, can get these at walmart for less.
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#8
So I did the hpop , dummy plugs,standpipes and branchtubes, icp ,IPR .....
the master tech at our autoshop said oil cooler orings and or probably the screen for it would be best to inspect seems how if that screen is shot debris and stuff will get in there and if it cerculates and clogs that screen boom no start ? Sound right ?he went to school for powerstrokes I guess? what you guys think ?
the master tech at our autoshop said oil cooler orings and or probably the screen for it would be best to inspect seems how if that screen is shot debris and stuff will get in there and if it cerculates and clogs that screen boom no start ? Sound right ?he went to school for powerstrokes I guess? what you guys think ?
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bigdawg460
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
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07-24-2006 12:17 AM