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Next week im going to make a three hour trip to go look at a 74 f250 highboy. The guy wants 2500 for it, he says the frame is mint and so is the body except for one cab corner and it needs a starter, a solenoid and a battery. When I asked what the motor and tranny were he said a 352 with 390 heads and 390 gt headers with a four speed that has granny first. So if you can tell me what im getting into or if something doesnt sound right let me know so I dont buy a pile.
Maybe the starter/solenoid troubles are because of a bad/missing cab ground.
Mine had a starter run-on condition until I put a ground between the engine and the cab, to replace the missing one...
I think the 352 was only available the first couple of years of highboy production, so that's definitely a swap. Sounds like an NP435 transmission.
Make sure nothing was badly hacked to accommodate those headers and any other add-ons.
Next week im going to make a three hour trip to go look at a 74 f250 highboy.
The guy wants 2500 for it, he says the frame is mint and so is the body except for one cab corner and it needs a starter, a solenoid and a battery.
When I asked what the motor and tranny were he said a 352 with 390 heads and 390 gt headers with a four speed that has granny first.
So if you can tell me what im getting into or if something doesnt sound right let me know so I dont buy a pile.
Only V8 factory installed in 1968/76 F100/250 4WD: 360 2V
352 installed in 1965/67 F100/250 2WD/4WD & F350.
1968/76 360/390 heads are the same, 1972 was the first year for hardened valve seats.
IMO, I would not buy a truck that couldn't be test driven, because there's no way to verify if the engine/trans/rear axle are good, plus the 4WD system.
Same 3 hole starter used 1963/76 on all FE engines, solenoid is the same 1956/79, battery (R-27-F) is the same 1965/79.
If the OP replaced these parts, the truck could be driven. But some people are snakes, make an excuse that the truck cannot be driven...to hide the "sins."
That's a lot of cash for a truck that doesn't run, in my book. With $200 worth of new parts, he could probably get twice that, if its as minty as he claims. I'd be skeptical, but that's just me. Good luck!
The 4 speed granny transmission sounds like a T18 but I could be wrong. They are a very stout cast iron manual transmission.
You could probably change the starter and solenoid in 30 minutes. Or at least I could on my 2wd. It would be pretty cheap insurance before purchase. But if it hasn't been run in a while it might have bad gas.
X2 on unless I hear it start, run, and then drive it and ck that the trans shifts and can put it in 4h and 4L.... it a parts truck.
Remember that if you by it and can get it to run, it has to make the 3 hr drive or if you can't get it to start you have to get is back somehow.. $$roll back wrecker or are you taking a trailer with you in the 1st place?
I wonder why the guy just doesn't put the 3 things it needs on it and double his money?
Better ck that the paper title matches the truck frame, door warrenty plate...
That list in post #8 is a fast combo of HIO's advice and a quick short mental list I use. (Thanks HIO)
There are alot of other issues to consider. BIGGIE #1 RUST fwd cab corners. Look behind the plastic fenderwell liner. That rust can let the cab settle and mess with the clutch and or steering.
Rust in the cab windshield gasket area. Rust in the cab back window seal area.
High Boy steering set up Garrison or Bendix prone to being leaky in the cylinder and $ to get rebuilt if you can..
As soon as I typed that statement I said myself..."self... I should state that earlier models (like the 75 he is going to look at) did not have those liners and that makes it easy to look at those fwd cab mounts", but I thought, ah what the heck it''ll fly. lol
As soon as I typed that statement I said myself..."self... I should state that earlier models (like the 75 he is going to look at) did not have those liners and that makes it easy to look at those fwd cab mounts", but I thought, ah what the heck it'll fly. lol
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