2017 Price
I initially went into my purchase intending to do x-plan, but the sales guy said he could do better. And he did.
The owner loyalty rebate is ZIP specific. It's not a nation wide program.
Yes I get pissy with you Dan because you don't know what you're talking about. I am not talking out both sides of my mouth in the slightest. The rebates DO vary with where you live, and not everyone will get the full $1750 back, so it's false to call it a nationwide rebate as you did. I do NOT pivot away from price, I show you all the places where numbers do get hidden so that you can know asking on a forum what your best price will likely either lead you to unrealistic expectations, or else, settling for something you think is an amazing deal but actually has several missed opportunities. I actually got pretty specific with price by comparing it with what you would see if you got a quote on such a truck from me. I had a $250 mistake on rebate differences because I just got back from vacation and was going off memory and that was from last month. But every bit of information I provided was intended for consumer gain for forum members. I do not tell forum members how much to buy a truck for both out of respect for other sales folks, but also because I know darn well I don't see everyone buyers guides, and I would feel pretty bad if someone got taken by a fee I wasn't expecting and they said yes based only on my advice. I do my best to show folks what to look for and how pricing can be compared. The only pricing I do suggest is TrueCar and that's because I know it represents very competitive regional market pricing. Since I suggest you buy local (not from me), it's the best way I know of how to tell folks to get a fair deal. On most vehicles, there is far more profit on the back end of the deal than the front end. If you start with TrueCar on a $45k truck, you're going to be dickering over a few hundred bucks. If that makes me a greedy jerk, then so be it. I would kick you out of my officer quicker than you would leave, so of course you wouldn't buy from someone like me. I don't take BS, I appreciate straight shooters and I want my customers to be success so they buy more trucks from me. I promise you that a collection of my posts would be of greater value than any online "how to buy a car" article I've ever seen. I get a few pats on the back for that from forum members and that's good. I respond to folks like you because I think folks other than you learn from my responses.
The owner loyalty rebate is ZIP specific. It's not a nation wide program.
Yes I get pissy with you Dan because you don't know what you're talking about. I am not talking out both sides of my mouth in the slightest. The rebates DO vary with where you live, and not everyone will get the full $1750 back, so it's false to call it a nationwide rebate as you did. I do NOT pivot away from price, I show you all the places where numbers do get hidden so that you can know asking on a forum what your best price will likely either lead you to unrealistic expectations, or else, settling for something you think is an amazing deal but actually has several missed opportunities. I actually got pretty specific with price by comparing it with what you would see if you got a quote on such a truck from me. I had a $250 mistake on rebate differences because I just got back from vacation and was going off memory and that was from last month. But every bit of information I provided was intended for consumer gain for forum members. I do not tell forum members how much to buy a truck for both out of respect for other sales folks, but also because I know darn well I don't see everyone buyers guides, and I would feel pretty bad if someone got taken by a fee I wasn't expecting and they said yes based only on my advice. I do my best to show folks what to look for and how pricing can be compared. The only pricing I do suggest is TrueCar and that's because I know it represents very competitive regional market pricing. Since I suggest you buy local (not from me), it's the best way I know of how to tell folks to get a fair deal. On most vehicles, there is far more profit on the back end of the deal than the front end. If you start with TrueCar on a $45k truck, you're going to be dickering over a few hundred bucks. If that makes me a greedy jerk, then so be it. I would kick you out of my officer quicker than you would leave, so of course you wouldn't buy from someone like me. I don't take BS, I appreciate straight shooters and I want my customers to be success so they buy more trucks from me. I promise you that a collection of my posts would be of greater value than any online "how to buy a car" article I've ever seen. I get a few pats on the back for that from forum members and that's good. I respond to folks like you because I think folks other than you learn from my responses.
Is TrueCar "invoice" price the same as Ford invoice price?
Do you consider 2 thousand to be thousands?
Last edited by 44Dan44; Apr 11, 2017 at 10:54 AM. Reason: I thought I wasn't worth replying to.....blushing
Double speak, which is it? You have costs on a lot vehicle and no costs on an order vehicle and can therefore sell them cheaper?
You've already admitted elsewhere you can sell for Z Plan and do very well and yet you keep pimping Truecar, wonder why?
Last edited by 44Dan44; Apr 11, 2017 at 11:00 AM. Reason: Get ready folks, here comes the low margins Ford sells trucks at spiel
Of course there is a much more complex answer, which is where you get very confused on your terminology as well as price justification. But if you want to know the dollar amount we purchase the vehicle from Ford for and pay interest on to the bank while it sits on our lot, when I've looked at TrueCar, the listed invoice matches what is correct. We can sell for under invoice and make money, but that doesn't mean invoice isn't invoice.
Also yes, I consider $2000 to be "thousands", and on a $45k truck it's not there. On the truck you selected as an example the holdback is $1338, so I would NOT consider that "thousands". Holdback is part profit, and part paying expenses. As I said, I would quote anyone invoice, when a few forum members have asked me to I've offered to split the holdback, so the more expensive the truck, the more under invoice they get and the more profit I can make.
No need, it's good enough already. What expenses would there be on an ordered truck, printer paper, lol. All I'm saying to anyone listening is that your good buddy local dealer has his hand in your pocket, I don't, why pay more?
Yes, you've been here a long time, yes I appreciate and listen and learn from your perspective, all this car buying is just so complicated for us buyers, whatever would we do without the Internet.
A simple question was asked, how much % off MSRP, sold all across the country at 10-11% off but you won't say that straight out because you count on the lemmings and sheep to pay sticker or Truecar and don't like it if you get called on it. Lunch time my friend, enjoy your day.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ty-lariat.html
Of course there is a much more complex answer, which is where you get very confused on your terminology as well as price justification. But if you want to know the dollar amount we purchase the vehicle from Ford for and pay interest on to the bank while it sits on our lot, when I've looked at TrueCar, the listed invoice matches what is correct. We can sell for under invoice and make money, but that doesn't mean invoice isn't invoice.
Also yes, I consider $2000 to be "thousands", and on a $45k truck it's not there. On the truck you selected as an example the holdback is $1338, so I would NOT consider that "thousands". Holdback is part profit, and part paying expenses. As I said, I would quote anyone invoice, when a few forum members have asked me to I've offered to split the holdback, so the more expensive the truck, the more under invoice they get and the more profit I can make.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
No need, it's good enough already. What expenses would there be on an ordered truck, printer paper, lol. All I'm saying to anyone listening is that your good buddy local dealer has his hand in your pocket, I don't, why pay more?
Yes, you've been here a long time, yes I appreciate and listen and learn from your perspective, all this car buying is just so complicated for us buyers, whatever would we do without the Internet.
A simple question was asked, how much % off MSRP, sold all across the country at 10-11% off but you won't say that straight out because you count on the lemmings and sheep to pay sticker or Truecar and don't like it if you get called on it. Lunch time my friend, enjoy your day.
I would like to see a few more answers on the % question.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ty-lariat.html
I built my truck on the Ford website. Is that exactly what I can expect at the dealer? Basically I found pieced together the truck I want through a la carte options and grouped packages. For example on an XLT I have to order a bunch of chrome part I don't want in order to get heated seats on the website... are those packages the dealer can chop up and sell on an individual basis or am I stuck with the same packages that I see on the website?
No financing. These are ALL the charges/credits
OEM Sticker 59260 (no add ons)
X-plan price 55859 (and no dealer fee)
(plus tax on the trade difference)
title/registration +310.85
Pre-delivery service charge +75
Battery/tire +6
lemon law book +2
minus total rebates -3500 (multiple things/750 owner loyalty was one of them)
That's it.
FWIW I can't order stuff. On big stuff more times than not I'm disappointed when I finally get it . Got to see it, touch it, experience it before I'll commit to it.
USAA interest rate is good if you use their buying service. The real number is 2.5.
No financing. These are ALL the charges/credits
OEM Sticker 59260 (no add ons)
X-plan price 55859 (and no dealer fee)
(plus tax on the trade difference)
title/registration +310.85
Pre-delivery service charge +75
Battery/tire +6
lemon law book +2
minus total rebates -3500 (multiple things/750 owner loyalty was one of them)
That's it.
FWIW I can't order stuff. On big stuff more times than not I'm disappointed when I finally get it . Got to see it, touch it, experience it before I'll commit to it.
USAA interest rate is good if you use their buying service. The real number is 2.5.
there buying service consists of you entering in some info online and sending it to the dealer. The price is meaningless...it just True car with a .5% rate discount
So you paid $52442? So you were able to get over 11% off. I like that number.
No need, it's good enough already. What expenses would there be on an ordered truck, printer paper, lol. All I'm saying to anyone listening is that your good buddy local dealer has his hand in your pocket, I don't, why pay more?
Yes, you've been here a long time, yes I appreciate and listen and learn from your perspective, all this car buying is just so complicated for us buyers, whatever would we do without the Internet.
A simple question was asked, how much % off MSRP, sold all across the country at 10-11% off but you won't say that straight out because you count on the lemmings and sheep to pay sticker or Truecar and don't like it if you get called on it. Lunch time my friend, enjoy your day.
What expenses are there are on an ordered truck? Well you still have to wash it and most places balance out expenses with a "pack" so that all units are charged the same. Deeper, you have the opportunity loss of not selling the one in stock. If I could have sold you the one in stock but told you to order instead, well the continuing expenses with the other unit keep building up. Business aint cheap. Interest alone on the $45k truck runs about $75.00 a month, so while the ordered truck might not have a cost in interest, not selling the in stock one adds to the business monthly expense.
You want my "forum" price? It's based on a 17050 zip code and includes destination as well as $1250 in general rebates and $500 in owner loyalty.
$40827 is splitting holdback. If you came in off the street it's be $669 higher (back to invoice). That's for if it were in stock or an order so long as the price levels are the same (prices go up through the year). Actually I already gave the means for you to attain this figure in this thread, but that's it spelled out. That's about 11% under invoice. If you found a dealer with high doc fees, hidden destination charges, or simply qualified for more rebates, you could both artificially and in reality see a better savings. Likewise, if you agreed to 11% off because it's what I told you and you didn't realize they had a $600 doc fee and added $1200 destination fee well then you just took a deal that you could have done better on and that's why I don't like giving hard answers without a significant amount of background information as we hopefully have here for the OP.
I'm not a pricing service. My goal is to help folks realize that casting out a net for numbers isn't an efficient way to understand their market and the deals they can get.
Right... and I agree. That's why I asked for a % off and not a dollar amount. A % should carry over between states and dealers more than a specific dollar amount (at least that's what I would think)








