bleeding brakes from empty
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Bench bleed the new master cylinder 1st, then put a clear line on the rear passenger side bleeder valve and put the end in a clear container 1/4 way full of brake fluid.
Open the passenger side rear wheel cylinder bleeder valve and as you pump fill the system (via the master cylinder), keep the master cylinder full ,pump fluid till it starts to fill the container. Shut that one, go the dvrs side rear same procedure. Then move to the passenger side front...
Always keep the master cylinder full.
Open the passenger side rear wheel cylinder bleeder valve and as you pump fill the system (via the master cylinder), keep the master cylinder full ,pump fluid till it starts to fill the container. Shut that one, go the dvrs side rear same procedure. Then move to the passenger side front...
Always keep the master cylinder full.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 542
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^ exactly, bench bleed to get the master full and lubed, then start with the farthest wheel away and work in. I LOVE my Mityvac pressure bleeder, one of the best "specialty" tools I've ever bought - I'm a 1-man show, makes brake work so, so simple. You pretty much set it up, then start cracking bleeders, really makes it easy.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,217
Likes: 154
I usually 'bench bleed' the MS on the vehicle. Simply install it all the way, except for the lines. Then get some of those cheap plastic fittings and clear PVC hose from the McParts store, and connect them so that the MS ports discharge into the MS reservoir. (Or you can use some scrap brake lines if they have the correct fittings.) Then fill the MS with brake fluid and slowly pump the pedal. On a car, you can sometimes observe the fluid re-entering the MS, and be sure of when the bubbles are gone - but that might be more difficult on a truck...
Then remove the bench-bleed rig, connect the vehicle's lines, and bleed each wheel, starting at the farthest, and working your way to the closest. (RR, LR, RF, LF)
And don't forget to keep an eye on the fluid level in the MS during 'wheel bleeding,' as you don't want to run it dry and have to start over and re-do the entire wheel bleeding process on that channel. (Both wheel cylinders, or calipers...)
Then remove the bench-bleed rig, connect the vehicle's lines, and bleed each wheel, starting at the farthest, and working your way to the closest. (RR, LR, RF, LF)
And don't forget to keep an eye on the fluid level in the MS during 'wheel bleeding,' as you don't want to run it dry and have to start over and re-do the entire wheel bleeding process on that channel. (Both wheel cylinders, or calipers...)
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