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So this weekend I plan to get Big Red (1986 F150 XL) ready for this year I always do general maintenance when I take it out of storage. Just the basic oil change and lube job this it's gonna include a rear brake job for the life of me I've always remembered even before I started to drive the truck the rear brake shoes would always have cracks on them. Last year before I put the truck away I checked the shoes and wouldn't you know it the shoe was missing a chunk. I'm glad it didn't lock up the wheel while I was driving but the chunk that fell off wasn't there. Anyways what bring me to the parking cables threw out my time driving big red the cables eventually locked up my rear brake and brought me to disconnect them I'm finally getting to to change them. Now to my question does it matter the length of the box on the truck or are all of them the same and what is the ambulance package?
So this weekend I plan to get Big Red (1986 F150 XL) ready for this year I always do general maintenance when I take it out of storage. Just the basic oil change and lube job this it's gonna include a rear brake job for the life of me I've always remembered even before I started to drive the truck the rear brake shoes would always have cracks on them. Last year before I put the truck away I checked the shoes and wouldn't you know it the shoe was missing a chunk. I'm glad it didn't lock up the wheel while I was driving but the chunk that fell off wasn't there. Anyways what bring me to the parking cables threw out my time driving big red the cables eventually locked up my rear brake and brought me to disconnect them I'm finally getting to to change them. Now to my question does it matter the length of the box on the truck or are all of them the same and what is the ambulance package?
If your F150 has a pickup bed, I doubt it has the ambulance package.
1985 F150 from production date 11/84; 1986/87 F150:
F6TZ-2A635-BB (replaced E5TZ-2A635-A & F2TZ-2A635-E) .. Right Rear Parking Brake Cable (Motorcraft BRCA-264) / Available from Ford
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- F6TZ-2A635-BA (replaced E5TZ-2A635-B & F2TZ-2A635-F) .. Left Rear Parking Brake Cable (Motorcraft BRCA-263) / Available from Ford
Just go to your local auto store and buy the new cables. I want to say the cables are all the same, just the cable going up front is different. But all you have to do is go online to your favorite local store and check.
Thanks guys! I appreciate it. Hopefully their isn't too many cuss words involved when replacing the shoes and cables, changing rear brake shoes aren't exactly my favorite.
Getting the old cable out of the brake backing plate can be a challenge. It has all those little fingers that have to be compressed to make it pull out. Someone suggested a boxed end wrench that just slides over the cable end works to push them all in at once. I have tried that and sometimes it does work, sometimes they are so rusty it doesn't work that great.
Getting the old cable out of the brake backing plate can be a challenge. It has all those little fingers that have to be compressed to make it pull out. Someone suggested a boxed end wrench that just slides over the cable end works to push them all in at once. I have tried that and sometimes it does work, sometimes they are so rusty it doesn't work that great.
Use a small hose clamp around the fingers but down just a little so you can start the fingers thru the hole.
Dave - - - -
Let us know how the cables work out for you.
When I did mine last summer one side terminated (at the leveler) with a ball and the other with an octagonal piece. Returned one of them twice thinking it was old stock but they were all the same.
Let us know how the cables work out for you.
When I did mine last summer one side terminated (at the leveler) with a ball and the other with an octagonal piece. Returned one of them twice thinking it was old stock but they were all the same.
Mine the springs at the lever were too long as seen here.
I had to cut the spring so it would not droop down. I may still need to make it a little shorter when I put the ebrake on the spring may go into coil bind and not pull on the lever.
Dave ----
Mine the springs at the lever were too long as seen here.
I had to cut the spring so it would not droop down. I may still need to make it a little shorter when I put the ebrake on the spring may go into coil bind and not pull on the lever.
Dave ----
Those were boxed wrong or something. All the ones I have bought fit perfectly.
Those were boxed wrong or something. All the ones I have bought fit perfectly.
Then both sides were boxed wrong as they were both like that.
Originally Posted by madpogue
Actually, once you connect the intermediate/front cables and there's tension on the whole cable system, I **THINK** that slack would go away.
Then I think they would go into coil bind. That is were the spring is compressed that it can not be compressed any more.
In that picture the lever is back as far as it can go to give it room.
I **think** that's what would happen and why I cut the spring shorter.
Dave ----
Yeah, I know this is a old thread, but figured it would be best to keep it going.
After some 30 years of never using the parking brake, I've decided it's a good time to fix the frozen cables. The only issue currently, I have removed the old adjuster, in pieces.
BTW, I was surprised that after disconnecting the adjuster, from the cable and E bake pedal move freely.
Me being cheap, yeah, I know it's an old guy thing... I figured there must be a cheaper way then some $25-45.00 for a replacement. So while driving around today with the broken parts next to me on the seat, I got a brainstorm idea. Cost me a whole $1.90 w/tax, at the hardware store. I had the various washers on the shelf.
Over the next few weeks, I'll swing by NAPA and get the two rear cables and replace them. I did spray them with the Aero-Kroil from the first photo after taking this photo. I also sprayed the clamp bolt on the frame too. I'm sure that will be fun to remove when the time comes, I think the impact gun will make fast work of it. (sorry, no picture of that yet)
Your have to pull the wheels off and tear the brakes down to replace the cables. A lot of work, but worth it if you have a manual transmission or you tow with it.
Your have to pull the wheels off and tear the brakes down to replace the cables. A lot of work, but worth it if you have a manual transmission or you tow with it.
Don't do either of that. Didn't know they had to come apart to just replace the cable. Not that that is not something I can't do. Figured I could pull the drums and reach in and unclip the cable, or cut the old cable and fish in the new. With nice weather coming, it's a good project...
Oh, yeah, about 22 minutes into this video it shows the cable on the lever.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
I figured there must be a cheaper way then some $25-45.00 for a replacement. So while driving around today with the broken parts next to me on the seat, I got a brainstorm idea. Cost me a whole $1.90 w/tax, at the hardware store. I had the various washers on the shelf.
