i don't have my manual with me anyone know the specs for the 10 lug 19.5 with aluminum wheels?

 

165 lb.ft.

 

Ok thanks that's what I thought

 

150 foot pounds I was told by the Ford lug nut wrench tourqer intern. So 165 sounds about right.

 

I just tighten them until they feel tight. I've had the rear wheels off multiple times on the back of my 2017 dually (don't ask why) and not had any issues in about 8k miles.

 

Please always torque, I did a test drive of one of my trucks, just around the block. I tightened them using a 3' breaker bar as tight as I could. They were all backed off 3 turns each in the 1/2 mile I drive. You need to stretch studs in order for them to remain tight under the stress. The 600 lb wheel and tire assembly had it come loose, could have killed someone.

 

I've been taking tires on and off vehicles my whole life and never had a problem. If you correctly tighten using an appropriate star pattern, making sure everything really is tight by going over everything twice, you'll be fine.

Using a torque wrench is all well and good, but definitely not necessary. If it was, manufacturers would be supplying one with every vehicle that comes equipped with a spare tire.

 

Then why is there a torque spec? I vehemently disagree, you should always torque. As an FAA licensed mechanic I believe your suggestion to be ill advised, just because you got away with it so far doesn't mean it isn't right. When mounting your spare you should always proceed to a repair shop to have the tire fixed, replaced and torqued. Show me a tire shop that doesn't torque these days?

 

Torque spec is 'perfect' because obviously if you under-tighten you can lose lugnuts or even the whole wheel...over-tighten can damage the wheel or stud, in addition to making it very hard to remove next time.

Tire shops tighten to a torque spec to cover their rear. Many tire shops tighten to a generic torque spec, not necessarily what the manufacturer calls for. They also often request that you return in a day or two for a re-tighten or do it yourself.

Your comments about the spare tire situation are "ideal case" but hardly necessary on a vehicle like a Super Duty with a full-size spare. Temporary spare...absolutely, get it off as quick as you can. Full-size matching tire on a steel rim? Use it as long as you want. I think it is perfectly reasonable to tighten a tire in the method I described.

There are some circumstances were precise torquing is the only way to do it. One job that comes to mind it tightening the cylinder head after replacing the head gasket. I'd say aircraft wheels probably fall under the same level of precision. But car and truck tires? If it is on straight and tight, it will be fine. Not to mention, if lug nuts start backing off, the driver will feel a pretty significant vibration...plenty of extra warning.

 

I didn't feel ANY vibration when I nearly lost the 600 lb wheel and tire. I could move it back and fourth 6". By all means do what you want, but don't advise others to do so when it could cost people lives. In order to remain tight, you NEED to stretch the fastener. On large applications you actually measure the stretch and not the torque with a dial indicator.

 

Stalwart, we're on a Super Duty forum talking about tightening the wheels of a Super Duty pickup. They don't weigh 600lbs.

I noted some applications need more precision. But a Super Duty pickup is totally appropriate to tighten using the factory supplied wrench by hand until it is appropriately tight. The wheels aren't going to come off and nobody is going to die.

 

I get your point but some people have no experience with your phrase "appropriately tight", I could do it, you obviously can, but not all people have OUR experience. BTW, my all steel rears and tires weigh very close to 400 lb a side.

 

Agree. If you aren't totally comfortable with what you're doing, then torque them to spec. Ideal.

You're saying each steel 450 wheel and tire is almost 200lbs? Looking online the stock Continental tire is 63 lbs. Not sure what the rim weighs, but likely is not 130 lbs? Unless I'm missing something.

My loaded rear tractor tires are very hefty; those can't be installed on and off very easily, that's for sure.

 

I was told that each rear wheel and tire is over 175-180, my tires are not stock nor are my wheels.

It was a real PIA getting an affordable torque wrench capable of 600 lb.ft. for the other lug nuts . . .

 

Always, always, always torque lug nuts on car and truck wheels. There is simply no good reason not to. Tire shops do it to cover their rear, because when they don't, wheels have a tendency to come off.