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I tightened lug nuts with the old tight enough method for years. Never had a problem. Then I bought a new truck many years ago, and swapped tires and rims. Tightened them like normal, star pattern, checked all twice with similar torque, blah blah. Few weeks later I noticed two of my 8 lugs were busted off on one wheel. One other wheel had one busted. Checked the remaining ones and and many were loose. When torqued again, I spun off 5 or 6 studs. My truck didn't drive weird or anything but the vibration from use under a heavier vehicle obviously did not play well together. I bought a torque wrench and haven't had problems since.
On lighter vehicles, it probably isn't as much of an issue but heavier ones obviously are. It could have ended badly.
I just checked my owner's manual to verify that 165 lb ft was also for the SRW, and it is. I checked all my lug nuts tonight. All of them were to spec (within the margin of error on my Craftsman torque wrench).
The torque spec isn't so vehicle specific as you might think. It is hardware specifiic to the tensile strength and where the yield point is in the fastener. The most accurate measure of the proper clamping would be to measure the stretch of the stud, that way any inconsistencies with thread condition and contamination of the threads is accounted for. Too much work for so little payout, so we use torque. Can you imagine using a dial indicator while tightening the nut? PITA
I bought a torque wrench and haven't had problems since.
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its to bad that more people dont see the light. ive got several torq wrenches for the reason you mentioned . " because ive never had a failure when its tightened correctly"
I was told that each rear wheel and tire is over 175-180, my tires are not stock nor are my wheels.
It was a real PIA getting an affordable torque wrench capable of 600 lb.ft. for the other lug nuts . . .
no chance each wheel/tire weighs 175+. Ive got 22" forged wheels, they weigh 46lbs each without the tire. Tire weighs more than the rim, but more likely they are 120-ish each (wheel/tire).
no chance each wheel/tire weighs 175+. Ive got 22" forged wheels, they weigh 46lbs each without the tire. Tire weighs more than the rim, but more likely they are 120-ish each (wheel/tire).
Are you sure about that? Mine are aftermarket STEEL wheels with a higher weight rating than yours!
no chance each wheel/tire weighs 175+. Ive got 22" forged wheels, they weigh 46lbs each without the tire. Tire weighs more than the rim, but more likely they are 120-ish each (wheel/tire).
Nice 6 month bump..
65lb Rickson wheels plus 95 lb toyo M608Z (285) = 160 lbs per wheel/tire.
65lb Rickson wheels plus 95 lb toyo M608Z (285) = 160 lbs per wheel/tire.
I stand corrected, I know I can really feel the higher unsprung weight. I was going by shipping weight minus the pallet, which I missed by 60 lbs total.
I bring a breaker bar and a torque wrench with me on long trips. I would rather bring them and not need them than need them and not bring them!
Every company pickup truck has a long handled ratchet, 6 inch extension, and sockets to fit the pickups wheel nuts and the nuts on the different trailers they pull frequently.
Also a torque wrench for reinstalling the tires and torque specs on a decal for the truck and the trailers inside the door post near the other specs like gvwr etc.
Company rule is if you need to use a spare on the truck or trailer, stop after approximately 15 minutes of driving and retorque.
Safety first!
As an AME i am in the habit of using a CALIBRATED torque wrench on almost ever fastener I touch.
So I like your style
Every company pickup truck has a long handled ratchet, 6 inch extension, and sockets to fit the pickups wheel nuts and the nuts on the different trailers they pull frequently.
Also a torque wrench for reinstalling the tires and torque specs on a decal for the truck and the trailers inside the door post near the other specs like gvwr etc.
Company rule is if you need to use a spare on the truck or trailer, stop after approximately 15 minutes of driving and retorque.
Safety first!
As an AME i am in the habit of using a CALIBRATED torque wrench on almost ever fastener I touch.
So I like your style
I have a 2016 Ford F-350 6.7 L Powerstroke Super Duty platinum edition. I pull a 43 foot fifth wheel. I just had my brakes looked at and the service guy took all the wheels off to check them all. They were fine but I asked the guy what he torqued my lugs at and he said 120ft-lbs. it didn’t seem right to me so I did research and found out it’s support be 165ft-lbs. I have a torque wrench that goes up to 150 ft-lbs. When I researched a new torque wrench that would do 165ft-lbs I couldn’t find one that would do exactly that amount. I found a couple that went up to 260ft lbs but they go in increments of 25 so it goes from 150 to 175. How do I get to exactly 165 ft-lbs?