Changed fuel filters, how hear fuel pump? no start
#1
Changed fuel filters, how hear fuel pump? no start
I replaced both fuel filters on my 2006 6.0 liter Ford diesel. I now hear what sounds like the fuel pump which I have never heard before filter change. I cycled the key a dozen times to no avail. I removed the fuel/ water separator plug and drained. I then bled the fuel line by opening the banjo bolt (bleed valve on upper fuel filler) and cycling the key well over 10 times. A I also opened the banjo bolt to bleed while cranking as if I was bleeding a brake line. More then a bucket of diesel came out during this process. I took off both fuel filters, made sure they were seated correctly, oiled the O rings and tightened to make sure no air was being sucked in. I went through the process of cycling the key again as well as cracking the banjo bolt and cycling key. I am assuming I still have air in the fuel line. Still hear what I think is fuel pump. Fuel in upper bowel us under pressure so pump must be working. Any idea how to get the air out of the line, if that is what it is?
Thanks
Thanks
#4
#7
Used an OEM filter?
With a helper, remove the upper filter cap and cycle the key. Does it fill fast, any air. Get a gauge on it and see if it comes up to pressure. You could use that connection to drain some off as well. Put a hose on it, into a bucket. The pump will shut off once it gets to pressure if there is no demand... about 20-30 seconds. If it's running longer, you have an air leak.
Couple things... Remove the FICM relay while doing this to avoid hurting it. You may also consider unplugging the glow plug module, heating them again and again could burn the tips off.
Harbor Freight sells an oil test kit, #62621 for about $30 that will work. Has all the fittings and a gauge w/hose.
Make sure its above 50psi. The vacuum pump is on the passenger side fender. Do you have a live data gauge? Your issue may be more than just fuel, verify it with numbers.
If this is the only thing done and it ran great before the change, your on the right track. Also... any codes?
With a helper, remove the upper filter cap and cycle the key. Does it fill fast, any air. Get a gauge on it and see if it comes up to pressure. You could use that connection to drain some off as well. Put a hose on it, into a bucket. The pump will shut off once it gets to pressure if there is no demand... about 20-30 seconds. If it's running longer, you have an air leak.
Couple things... Remove the FICM relay while doing this to avoid hurting it. You may also consider unplugging the glow plug module, heating them again and again could burn the tips off.
Harbor Freight sells an oil test kit, #62621 for about $30 that will work. Has all the fittings and a gauge w/hose.
Make sure its above 50psi. The vacuum pump is on the passenger side fender. Do you have a live data gauge? Your issue may be more than just fuel, verify it with numbers.
If this is the only thing done and it ran great before the change, your on the right track. Also... any codes?
Trending Topics
#8
Used an OEM filter?
With a helper, remove the upper filter cap and cycle the key. Does it fill fast, any air. Get a gauge on it and see if it comes up to pressure. You could use that connection to drain some off as well. Put a hose on it, into a bucket. The pump will shut off once it gets to pressure if there is no demand... about 20-30 seconds. If it's running longer, you have an air leak.
Couple things... Remove the FICM relay while doing this to avoid hurting it. You may also consider unplugging the glow plug module, heating them again and again could burn the tips off.
Harbor Freight sells an oil test kit, #62621 for about $30 that will work. Has all the fittings and a gauge w/hose.
Make sure its above 50psi. The vacuum pump is on the passenger side fender. Do you have a live data gauge? Your issue may be more than just fuel, verify it with numbers.
If this is the only thing done and it ran great before the change, your on the right track. Also... any codes?
With a helper, remove the upper filter cap and cycle the key. Does it fill fast, any air. Get a gauge on it and see if it comes up to pressure. You could use that connection to drain some off as well. Put a hose on it, into a bucket. The pump will shut off once it gets to pressure if there is no demand... about 20-30 seconds. If it's running longer, you have an air leak.
Couple things... Remove the FICM relay while doing this to avoid hurting it. You may also consider unplugging the glow plug module, heating them again and again could burn the tips off.
Harbor Freight sells an oil test kit, #62621 for about $30 that will work. Has all the fittings and a gauge w/hose.
Make sure its above 50psi. The vacuum pump is on the passenger side fender. Do you have a live data gauge? Your issue may be more than just fuel, verify it with numbers.
If this is the only thing done and it ran great before the change, your on the right track. Also... any codes?
this sounds like great adise. If you are not getting fuel to Small filter in engin compartment and you are sure the cap and "O" ring is property installed and tighten. That plastic cap is tricky. Make sure it bottoming out on alum body of frame mounted fuel filter. If all that good and no fuel have you ever had the nylon bag filter replaced in the fuel tank pick up tube {or supply} ? This typically breaks off in line and get clods in the fuel line before frame rail filter. Caucusing you to lose fuel and burn up injectors./
#9
Secondary fuel filter bowl fills fast. I do not see any air bubbles when cycling key. Primary fuel filter cap is now tight to housing. I can hear the primary fuel pump filling up the primary fuel filter housing on first cycle of key. There sounds like there is a secondary pump somewhere around the secondary fuel filter that fills up the secondary fuel filter bowl to over flowing when cycling key. I did not hear the pump up top until after I changed the fuel filters. I cracked both banjo bolts and bled while cycling key. There seems to be a lot of fuel pressure in the secondary fuel filter bowl as the diesel will shoot out about 2 feet when putting the cap back on while the pump up top is filling the upper bowl. Next step? Buy a live data gauge? Seems like I still have air in the fuel line as I have never heard that pump under the hood before changing fuel filters.
#10
#11
As soon as the sound stops under the hood the secondary fuel filter bowel stops overflowing. When I open up the banjo bolts the deiseal only flows while that sound is going. When the sound stops, diesel flow through the cracked banjo bolts stops. If this is not a secondary fuel pump what is making this sound? I see the same threads with the exact same issues with no resolutions. Sounds like a very common problem
#12
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Salt Lake City, utah
Posts: 1,468
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
The fuel pump will time out 15-20 sec with the KOEO. It will continue when KOER. There are two pumps a vacuum pump for the HVAC and hubs on 4x4 and the fuel pump under the driverside door frame rail. There are no other pumps. Unless there has been an aftermarket system installed by the PO.
Last edited by FiznUKa; 04-09-2017 at 06:30 PM. Reason: Addition
#13
Some people have installed two fuel pumps in a 6.0L (aftermarket mods), but it is quite uncommon and not necessary unless you are heavily modded (end even then the job can be done with one aftermarket pump), and no one that I have known of located an aftermarket fuel pump under the hood.
Best of luck. I believe you have other issues and you need to focus on identifying the issue (get a scan tool that can read engine data and codes).
Best of luck. I believe you have other issues and you need to focus on identifying the issue (get a scan tool that can read engine data and codes).
#14