So as some know I recently replaced my HPOP and went the Adrenaline route. Prior to that I was having some injector problems with one hanging open, one failing the buzz test, and one intermittently failing the buzz test. Also was getting that little every so often stumble at idle while warm.

After cleaning every sensor, tubing, and replacing the bad injectors and HPOP the truck was pretty much running the best it has since I have owned it.

However, every once in awhile when warmed up I would primarily get a #4 or #5 contribution code. Only once did a #2 or a #6 pop up. Plus the only time the codes would show was when I romped on the throttle or goosed it just a bit. I could granny drive the thing all day long and the codes would not show up.

Been watching pressures, temps, percentages like a hawk and everything has been inline where it needed to be. But, the problem would only arise when I throttled the truck at all.

Truck is bluesprung and fuel pressure at driving WOT uphill stays at about 60 psi.

What I thought was strange was when the code would pop, sometimes it would run slightly rough. I could stop the truck, turn it off, reset the code, and fire it up and run smooth as silk like the code never happened. At this point I was thinking maybe a FICM problem. FICM volts have always looked good, logic and main.

Anyway, to the point

I searched forever and I found a single thread throughout all of the powerstroke forums about intermittent contribution codes that was determined to be the HP oil rail "check valves" on the log style rails. Before that was diagnosed injectors had been replaced and yatta yatta yatta, typical parts chasing right?

Decided to get one of those "check valves" and take a look at it. The part number is 3C3Z-6N853-BA



The "check valve" is more of just an orifice than a check valve. These two pics are off the new fitting.





Figured I would check out my driver side so I ripped it out to take a look. It was somewhat obstructed it seemed, but running my smallest torch tip cleaner through it seemed to clear whatever was there. Once done it looked the same in orifice size as the new one. Nothing was now wrong with it so I figured throw it back in and see what happens.

Drove around several times at temp and throttled the thing heavily. No driver side codes...only a #5 would pop.

Yanked out the passenger side oil rail check valve and discovered the orifice was even more restricted compared to what the new one looked like size wise. Carb cleaner and my torch tip cleaner appeared to somewhat clear the hole to a larger size, but the tip cleaner would not fit inside the orifice no matter how much I tried. It seemed there was a metal edge inside the check valve on the upstream side that would fold over the hole ever so slightly.

Here is a pic of the old and new valve side by side and you can see the difference. The old one in this pic was only as large as I could make it without that weird piece inside covering the orifice.



Here you can see the little flap of metal protruding into the orifice opening



After that last pic I was able to come in from the other side with the tip cleaner and knock that little piece of metal out. Seemed to be a flaw in the machining of this part in my opinion if it is going to obstruct a tiny hole to begin with.

Wonder how many injectors throughout the world have been replaced because of this one little bugger?!?!

Drove the pig around quite a bit today and throttled uphill, downhill, getting on the freeway, and just through town. NO CODES

Soooooo, hopefully I got this thing kicked and have no more contribution codes pop up again unless it truly is a failing injector.

 

Chris, that is one great post. I have never seen this mentioned before. 2 attaboys and 1 rep from me.

 

That Chris is some damn good detective work. I was just about to order some injectors, now maybe I'll look at that on my '03 first when I pull them out to check my pushrods.




That part has popped up a few times due to breaking off the log, probably from over tightening it. Some unbolt it from the rail rather then using the quick connect release tool.

 

Thanks guys

I try to post up info that I know I cannot find easily so hopefully it helps someone else out down the road with a similar issue.

I hate nothing more than reading a thread that has all my symptoms and the thread just ends with no resolution. It is usually because the guy got fed up, took the truck into a mechanic and did not post up the solution.

Fingers crossed I got this thing whipped and no codes come back!!!

to all out there who's posts and threads I have read to get my pig up and running like she should be.

 

That is an awesome write up Chris! I have nearly the same issue where mine would be more prevalent when using tow haul mode and letting the truck do the downshifting. It seems like it would run rough when I would come to a stop, but if I blipped the throttle it would go away. Could still get a contribution code, so I'll try looking at these and clean them.

Any chance you could post a picture where on the motor they could be found?

 

He has an 03 motor your 06 won't have the check valves.

 

Great find. And excellent photography since I can easily see the difference and the debris partially blocking the hole. (And I'm on an old S4 phone)
I love the feeling of finding an out of the norm issue and solving it. And this is a great place to share it. Good job!


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2 thumbs up on this,I too put 8 new injectors in my Ex and #6 gives me a contradiction code every so often. That was the one that was blue when I pulled it out and missing the copper washer. I thought the cup might of had a issue but I will check that first.

 

Getting ready to look at the Oil Rails in my '03 for the 1st time ever (for me) while I chase HP Oil system low pressure and more. May as well look at these while I'm in there. Where in the system are they?

 

Very well done Chris! Thank you for sharing as well.

 

Nice write up Chris! And the pics are good too.

Just a couple of observations. First that new valve is pretty rough lookin for a new part, looks like someone made it on a drill press with dull cutters instead of a lathe. And second is anyone else wondering what might happen if these holes were drilled just a couple of thousandths oversize?

 

Great job Chris, you saved me a lot of work. There is nothing anywhere describing these.

Add me to the group that wants to see someone drill them out and claim 100 hp and 200 ft/lbs. Or anodize them blue and sell them for $300 ea.

 

At first I started to think about opening up the orifice too. But if that is a check valve as the name suggests, and there are two hexes on it so it could be an assembled part, then the orifice may be a slow pressure release orifice rather then a supply orifice. All depends on the "check valves" directionality.

 

This photo is not of mine, but found on the internet. The valve location is circled and the packaged part is one piece per part number so two would need to be ordered if replacing them.



Thanks! I noticed the same on the new part. It is a Ford part purchased from a Ford dealer so it's not aftermarket that's for sure.

OHHHHHHH...that's right, I forgot to mention...my gain was only 85 HP, 175 ft/lbs, and I plastidipped them after install...

I was thinking and wondering the same Jack. As Rusty mentioned, wonder what would happen if drilled out ever so slightly. Obviously it is sized for a particular reason.

Thanks again to everyone, just trying to do my part and help others along the way

 

Update.......

It has been over a week with some hard driving and NO CODES, not one

Hopefully I have resolved this issue and with good maintenance will prevent any future issues.