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Shell Rotella ELC coolant

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Old Aug 14, 2017 | 03:40 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Justin Jones
Well, which is the best the CAT ELC or Rotella ELC?
I haven't seen anyone do a comparison. I suspect either one will do a good job for you.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2017 | 12:02 PM
  #17  
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as long as it's EC-1, I don't care who made it. But make sure you do the CHEMICAL flush with Restore and Restore Plus to prevent remnants of the old type causing great difficulty. Water flush will not get the job done.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2017 | 06:53 PM
  #18  
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I've heard good stuff about Irontite Thoroflush. It does both iron and sludge. Anyone have any experience with that one?
 
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Old Aug 17, 2017 | 07:20 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by WatsonR
Shell Rotella ELC coolant..... can we get an amen?
Amen here, too.
I've had the Rotella ELC (RED) coolant in almost a year now since changing the oil cooler and so far, so good.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2017 | 09:34 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Idahoser
Water flush will not get the job done.
Absent the presence of solids in a coolant filter or an out an out of spec oil cooler temperature indicating clogging, there's no reason to do a chemical flush just to change to ELC. The two coolants aren't reactive, there's nothing about changing to ELC that will magically make the remnants of Gold turn to gel and create issues.

Mixing OAT and HOAT coolants will do that. Big time. But even that has caveats in that not all of them will do it. Trying putting DexCool and G-05 together and see what happens.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2017 | 09:44 AM
  #21  
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I thought that the Rotella ELC was an OAT (not exactly clear from the brochure though):

http://rotella.shell.com/products/an...sell-sheet.pdf
http://rotella.shell.com/media/2015/...-free-elc.html

The Zerex GO5 is a HOAT:
https://www.valvoline.com/our-produc...freeze-coolant
 
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Old Aug 17, 2017 | 10:09 AM
  #22  
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I didn't think ELC was considered an OAT, but I haven't read the label in a long time. But like I said, they don't all do it, it's just the rule of thumb people go by. I killed a heater core in a Jeep by accidentally using Gold instead of distilled water because a shop put DexCool in it, that turned into a dried silicate gel that completely clogged the cooler. That I confirmed by mixing the two and microwaving until it boils, then sediment falls out. Maybe I'm mixing up EG or IAT with the OAT. And again, that's mixing the two directly, not rinsing the container with water then changing.

There have been reports from people who got topped with Gold while running ELC that never had an issue running the mix until discovered. If it were going to react it would do it pretty well immediately.

Mark - Aren't you in the no chemical flush just to change coolants camp? I could have sworn I've seen posts by you saying there's not a need to do more than flush with water to change absent other issues.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2017 | 10:29 AM
  #23  
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Lol - yes I am in the no chemical flush camp when the temperature differentials are in the proper range!! I was going to add that comment earlier, but got pulled away and cut my post short.

It wouldn't hurt (IMO) to flush w/ the Restore (silicate gel cleaner), but I would definitely stay away from the Restore Plus or VC-9 (iron and scale remover) for a SIMPLE change in coolant type (unless the coolant system has been neglected).
 
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Old Aug 17, 2017 | 08:19 PM
  #24  
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Anyone familiar with Peak's Final Charge AKA Lifetime Coolant?
 
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Old Aug 18, 2017 | 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by chetspencer
Anyone familiar with Peak's Final Charge AKA Lifetime Coolant?
I think that's the one I've been using lately from O'Reilly's. Only because it's easy to get, local, and I was feeding a leak for a couple months and needed a bunch. They had both concentrate and premixed.

Again, if it's EC-1, put whatever name you want on it, all the same.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2017 | 08:26 AM
  #26  
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This is funny. In this thread Mark is saying Restore only no iron cheating cleaners. In another thread TD is promoting an intensive VC-9 cleaning.

I'l so glad this is a settled issue.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2017 | 08:45 AM
  #27  
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I think the drama is a sign of the times. If you switch from Gold to ELC, everybody used to understand that the first chemical is to clean out the old Gold, and the second chemical is to neutralize the first chemical. You do what you want, but that's the right way. Yes, you may clog the cooler doing this, still must be done. "debate" on then.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2017 | 09:42 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Idahoser
everybody used to understand that the first chemical is to clean out the old Gold, and the second chemical is to neutralize the first chemical.
You really need to read the Cummins Filtration literature on the chemicals then, because one does not "neutralize" the other, they have two distinct purposes. Restore Plus is an acid-based chelating cleaner to remove iron scale and mineral deposits, while Restore is an alkaline cleaner to remove silicates. Neither needs the other to be effective, nor to be removed from a system.

Ford has a procedure, Fleetguard has a procedure, the internet has seventeen procedures. Ford uses the Ford chemical, a lot of owners use the Fleetguard chemicals, some people use low-sudsing dishwahing detergent, some people (gasp) don't use any chemicals.

Common internet wisdom seems to be the maintenance equivalent of parts-tossing; JUST DO IT ALL, instead of thinking through what's going on.

Have you used the wrong coolant and/or coolant concentration, or tap water, and see rust flakes/solids in your coolant? Use VC-9 or Restore Plus. Probably going to fill up the oil cooler though.

Have a plugged oil cooler with no particulates in a filter? Try Restore and change to ELC.

Have a plugged oil cooler with a ton of trash in the filter? Use Restore and Restore Plus/VC-9.

Want to change from Gold to ELC with no current problems? Flush the system to deionized/distilled water and replace the coolant.

Want to just not care? Use Gold and whatever water you want, replace every 30k, and replace oil coolers as needed.

Blown oil cooler with a milkshake for coolant? Replace the cooler and use a detergent first to remove the oil, then identify the root cause.

Want to try to save buying a $350 oil cooler? Spend about that much on chemicals and try them all! Plus 19 hours of backflushing.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2017 | 10:04 AM
  #29  
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That pretty well sums it up.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2017 | 10:46 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by texastech_diesel
The two coolants aren't reactive, there's nothing about changing to ELC that will magically make the remnants of Gold turn to gel and create issues.
That's absolutely correct. However, just FYI....

Mixing OAT and HOAT coolants will do that. Big time. But even that has caveats in that not all of them will do it.
I know you said there are caveats, but just FYI, the Ford Gold (equal to the Zerex G-05) is a Hybrid-OAT (H-OAT) coolant that can easily mix with any OAT Extended Life Coolant meeting the CAT EC-1 spec. The only result is you "lower" the qualities of the OAT ELC (usually red in color) to that of the Hybrid-OAT coolant.

It's the same result if a person mixes an OAT ELC with a conventional green coolant with SCA's. The extended life carboxylate acid based cavitation protection is rendered useless and the coolant will now need to be monitored with test strips and SCA's added as needed.

Usually more than approximately 15% contamination IIRC is the level that is reached for the coolant to be adversely affected.

Trying putting DexCool and G-05 together and see what happens.
DexCool can mess up a Ford vehicle. Even GM owners (DexCool is SPECIFICALLY made for GM) have had problems using that coolant. https://www.consumeraffairs.com/news...m_dexcool.html

Originally Posted by texastech_diesel
I didn't think ELC was considered an OAT
It is. But it should be noted while all OAT coolants are considered extended life, not all coolants labeled as an Extended Life Coolant is an OAT based coolant.

it's just the rule of thumb people go by.
As for using DexCool in a Ford, it's a good rule of thumb.

As for mixing an OAT Heavy Duty Extended Life Coolant meeting the CAT EC-1 spec with any conventional green coolant needing an SCA package for diesel applications, or the Ford "Gold"/Zerex G-05, it's not a good rule of thumb because they are compatible with each other.

Originally Posted by Idahoser
Again, if it's EC-1, put whatever name you want on it, all the same.
Not anymore.

A quote of my post from August of last year from the Gooch/ELC thread I have over in the 7.3L forum.

Originally Posted by Stewart_H
Just a quick update:

Zerex G-05 coolant (Zerex version of the Ford "Gold") is now marketed as meeting the CAT EC-1 rating even though it is a Hybrid OAT coolant. So it looks like the EC-1 rating no longer applies ONLY to a Heavy Duty Organic Acid Tech Extended Life Coolant.



Source: http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/Zer...l_Bulletin.pdf

We can no longer tell people to just look for the EC-1 rating on the coolant now when they're trying to find a HD OAT ELC.

Stewart
Stewart
 

Last edited by Stewart_H; Sep 23, 2017 at 10:49 PM.
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