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Is their any other checks that should be done for the batteries in these 6.0L trucks other than load testing and charged voltage?
I bought this truck a year ago and it came with a matched set of NAPA batteries with the date code punched out for 2011. Yes 2011.
From what I've read on this forum it sounds like that is near impossible due to the engine being electrical vampire during a cold start, making the batteries short lived compared to a gasser engine.
They load test individually right up near the advertised rating. I just hate to ruin the FICM or something else if I overlooked some other test I should check them with. At the same time being $100+ a piece I hate to just get rid of them either if they still are good...
The only other thing I can think of that I do is monitor voltage before, during, and after cranking. Ideally before cranking you want 12.6v resting. In the winter, during cranking it may go into the 10s. If it falls much lower I'd start to be concerned. After the glow plugs cycle and the alternator is charging it may be 14.2+ and settle down to mid 13.s when charged with a stock alternator.
Here's a link to what I use to monitor volts. I leave it plugged in all the time to the powerpoint. It cost about $9.
I wouldn't say it's impossible for batteries to last that long. Good ones usually start out 100-200a above their rating, batteries in the northern climates live longer then in warmer regions, and life depends on how many starts and how fully charged they are between those starts.
Your alternator set-up and cabling also has a say in how long the batts last. My bud with an '04 and dual alts had his original factory batteries last 8 years. I ordered our truck with the "High Output 140Amp" alternator, and my original batts went over 6 years, actually it was only the passenger side that went bad at over 6 years, the drivers side was still good. Take a read through this most excellent thread from Jack (TooManyToys.):
Thanks to all for the great information.
An update after reading all the info I decided to retest my batteries because my digital load tester didn't say how to test a dual batteries arrangement. So the other night when I did the testing I left them hooked up like the directions said. which would be fine IF they were not dual batteries. Duh!
So tonight I disconnected the wiring harness from each and tested each one individually and got much different results. These have been a trickle charger for a long time so they should be as charged as they'd ever be.
(Batteries sticker spec is 1040 CCA)
Drivers side battery: 12.88 volts, 858 CCA, pass
Passenger side battery 12.87 volts, 817 CCA, fail
So looks like it is time for two new batteries and that 6 years was to long for this pair.
However from your replies it looks like with a some wiring updates, a good alternator the new set I could get some good life out of.
Not that I'm any battery guru like some around here, but what led you to a pass fail criteria on those batteries? Of things I have read around the almighty and "always true" internet is that 12.6 sitting voltage of the battery would be considered good. Was it the CCA not being within a certain amount of tagged spec? I'm just curious because my batteries are rated much less for CCA, but still turn the motor over well. They probably should be replaced because I don't drive it too much and I have a small crappy solar panel pumping sun juice into them to keep them from draining out. Sooo, just learning here and interested in what you are basing your failure determination on.
Keep in mind the reported 12.88 & 12.87 is high because of the surface charge from being on trickle charge all day, as stated above. They should be put on a carbon pile load tester and checked.
Personally, if they hold charge for a few days and while cranking the voltage doesn't get much below 10v I keep running them.
That's a good point regarding the surface charge. I've been told to install or wire in batteries and turn on headlights for about 30 secs to a minute before load testing to get a more realistic result.
I'd rep you, but I'm still in rep jail for ya. Ever had that Maine brewing BTW? Good stuff and hard to get out here on the left coast.
Depends on the specific battery type. 12.6 volts is the "old" standard lead-acid battery number, the kind with caps, for refilling with water.
Maintenance free batteries incorporate a calcium compound in the plates and have a higher resting voltage of 12.8 volts for 100% charge at 70F degrees. Float chargers provide just enough voltage to prevent natural self-discharge. With a surface charge batts will run around 13.20
2 tenths of a volt doesn't sound like much, but it's quite a lot on a percentage basis. Recall the difference between 100% charge, and Dead, is less than a single volt.
A quick and dirty way to determine accurate resting voltage (removing surface charge) is turn the headlight high beams on for five (5) minutes (engine off). Then, wait at least 10 minutes before measuring voltage at the terminals.
Not that I'm any battery guru like some around here, but what led you to a pass fail criteria on those batteries? Of things I have read around the almighty and "always true" internet is that 12.6 sitting voltage of the battery would be considered good. Was it the CCA not being within a certain amount of tagged spec? I'm just curious because my batteries are rated much less for CCA, but still turn the motor over well. They probably should be replaced because I don't drive it too much and I have a small crappy solar panel pumping sun juice into them to keep them from draining out. Sooo, just learning here and interested in what you are basing your failure determination on.
Chris: while ya' might drink a fine beer, we need ta' git ya' out'a that crappy solar panel charger...
I've only built a few of them meself... Craft beer, well, I'd have to take a tour with one of you boys before I give up on my MooseDrool or heaven forbid: the Black Butte Porter...
My shoulders, back, knee, all feel fine right now. A-maze-ing what 11 oz of Gin can do....
Depends on the specific battery type. 12.6 volts is the "old" standard lead-acid battery number, the kind with caps, for refilling with water.
Maintenance free batteries incorporate a calcium compound in the plates and have a higher resting voltage of 12.8 volts for 100% charge at 70F degrees. Float chargers provide just enough voltage to prevent natural self-discharge. With a surface charge batts will run around 13.20
2 tenths of a volt doesn't sound like much, but it's quite a lot on a percentage basis. Recall the difference between 100% charge, and Dead, is less than a single volt.
A quick and dirty way to determine accurate resting voltage (removing surface charge) is turn the headlight high beams on for five (5) minutes (engine off). Then, wait at least 10 minutes before measuring voltage at the terminals.
Well if that's the case then I need me some new go boxes. Mine are "maintenance free" and they will definitely not hold anything above 12.5 or 6 after a long drive seeing the volts getting to about 13.6 to 14+. I had charged them up and left for a few days while disconnected and 12.5 was the low of the two. Starting they very once in a while hit below 10v. I guess a trip to the battery store is in order for me.
Not that I'm any battery guru like some around here, but what led you to a pass fail criteria on those batteries? Of things I have read around the almighty and "always true" internet is that 12.6 sitting voltage of the battery would be considered good. Was it the CCA not being within a certain amount of tagged spec? I'm just curious because my batteries are rated much less for CCA, but still turn the motor over well. They probably should be replaced because I don't drive it too much and I have a small crappy solar panel pumping sun juice into them to keep them from draining out. Sooo, just learning here and interested in what you are basing your failure determination on.
The tester I have does a pass/fail that is where that info came from, all of the data I showed was taken from the tester.
Its testing the plate-to-plate conductivity in the battery.
I've been collecting a **** load of battery checks with my little electronic tester since getting away from spec grav, not that I really need another project. So far battery temp seems to be more of a CCA reading factor compared to the recent charge or surface charge.
But the point I was going to make is that the best test we can do on our batteries is the equivalent to carbon pile testing we do every time we start our truck. Compared to a gas fuel motor, the engine crankover and glow plug operation draws a huge amount of energy, a much higher percentage of the batteries reserve. And IMO about as far as you want to go in a two battery system.
With a powerport voltmeter like Pete showed, or the one I use, when you get to break into the 9s volt at the deepest drop it's time for new batteries.
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