Motorcraft rebuild kit and a new brass float. This was the first time I attempted to rebuild a carburetor. Adjusted the idle mixture screws and it is sitting at 18 vacuum while idling. Replaced the choke heat tubes and all vacuum lines. It is idling good and lost the hesitation it had while accelerating from a stop. Time to move on to ignition.

 

Good deal. Did you employ the quarter trick to set the fuel level in the bowl? Always thought that was pretty slick. The float height is important because it determines the fuel level. The 2100 is neat because it can be checked (careful!) while idling.

 

Awesome! Nice job. I love it when you do stuff like that and it really makes a good difference and works again like it should.

Dan

 

I checked it with the top off but didn't use the quarter. It is satisfying to have it run better than when you started.

 

What's the quarter truck? Have not heard it.

 

Carb looks nice and clean. Good work. X2 on the quarter trick. What is it?

 

using a qtr to measure from the top of the machined surface on the bowl to the top of the fuel level in the bowl is close to the desired 29/32 float setting requirement for the 2100.

Dan

 

Congrats Arnold. I really like hearing a person doing something they've never done before turning out good. As you can tell by my sig.
"Boldly Go Where No Man Has Gone Before".

 

I really need to rebuild mine, but I've never done one before. What rebuild kit did you use

 

Dan without going out and measuring the quarter what point on the quarter is your reference point? Is this on a dry carb or from the float at the bottom when gas is in the chamber? Sorry for the questions but I really like this and want to make sure I understand it fully.

 

Ford Motorcraft part number D4AZ9A586A. Still available from Ford.

 

I'm assuming that the whole qtr is the reference from top of the bowl to the top of the fuel level. A qtr actually measures 31/32 (I just measured one hahaha). I have never done it and probably would not do it personally because I'm **** and try to do things the best way I know to do them. I just use to know an old timer that did do it that way. Of course he did a lot of funky stuff back in the day. Hope this helps

 

Thanks, Jeff. I bought the above referenced Motorcraft kit from Rockauto. It had everything I needed. I watched a bunch of YouTube videos, Mike's Carburetor gives good detailed explanations in several videos. I would watch them all before I pulled my carburetor if I were you. I ruined the needle trying to adjust the float level so be careful. It works fine pulling the float out to adjust and it is easy to get in and out. He recommends getting a brass float if you have the black nitrophyl float because it can absorb gasoline over time.

 

The quarter is used simply because of convenience not only is it more than close enough to 29/32nds it is usually readily available where a ruler or gauge might not be.

The measurement is from the top of the flat machined surface of the carburetor bowl, to the surface of the fuel.

The "dry" float height bench setting is just that, basically a ballpark adjustment to get it close, but resulting fuel height needs to be checked when actually installed on the engine, after operation. Measure the fuel height in the bowl and move the float up or down as required so that the fuel height in the bowl is in spec. The takeaway is, it's possible the float will now be quite a bit off from the "dry" float height specification. This is OK. The float itself is best removed completely if bending the tab is needed. Don't bugger the viton rubber tip on the needle!

For some reason sometimes people think the engine must be running to adjust the float height &c. No!!! The fuel height level (w/ quarter) can be checked on level ground after a few minutes of idling, then shut it down. However if one is careful the air horn can be removed at idle and fuel height observed. Turn the motor off to adjust float height if needed! Remember the fuel height in the bowl is what counts, this makes a difference in carb tuning and even jetting numbers to some extent.

The reason a generic float height setting won't work in all situations is because fuel pump volume and pressure varies from unit to unit, brand to brand, filter size, line size or restriction, etc. Always check fuel height in the bowl after pump replacement for example. Fuel height will affect idle mixture settings too. Too little fuel in the carb will mean engine is starved at highway speeds, too much fuel will waste gas and be difficult to tune properly and probably lead to flooding. The 2100 is a really good carburetor, set it up by the book at every step and adjustment - don't skip anything - and it will work good for you.

 

Tester, thanks for the info. Always interesting info and tricks to be learned!

Arnold I'll agree with you on the videos from Mike's for the carbs. Sometimes hearing and seeing it explained is better than reading it. I'm a visual learner and he great simple videos on the carbs!