K, here's my problem, if i dont rev my truck a lil when i start it, it dies, if i floor it from a dead stop, it dies, if i just stomp on it period, it dies, if i dont let it idle for at least five min and put in drive or any moving gear from park, it ****** F-ing dies. I put card additive in my fuel yesterday, and had my sis rev it open just a bit while a sprayed sum spray carb cleaner in it (only a few sprays 2 or 3), do i need to spray more, or what?
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Spray in carb cleaner can do more harm than good sometimes. It will loosen stuff just enough to get sucked down further and clog passages. The same thing can happen with fuel treatments. They aren't bad products, they do exactly what they are supposed to do. The trouble is that once you reach a certain level of "crud" in your engine, it causes problems when broken loose.

You always have to start with the basics, air, fuel, and spark.

Air, if you've got the air cleaner off and it still has problems, air probably isn't your issue, unless you have TOO much air, that would be a vacuum leak. Check that every single vacuum port has something going where it is supposed to OR is capped off, and that all the vacuum lines are in good shape. You can use carb cleaner or various other things to check for any vacuum leaks around the carb and intake manifold. You can also use a vacuum gauge to check how much vacuum you have.

Spark is probably your next easiest. You know you have some spark because it will run, but that doesn't mean the timing is set right. Make sure your plugs, rotor, cap, and points (if it still has points), and wires are in good shape. Inspecting the plugs can tell you a lot about how the engine has been running

If everything looks good there, you probably have a fuel / carb problem. Carb kits are relatively cheap and fairly easy to use. If it's got the 2bbl, trust me, you can rebuild it without knowing anything about carbs. Just get a rebuild kit and one of those carb cleaning solvent cans, and go to town. While you have the carb off, inspect any of the linkages for any broken / missing pieces as well as anything like worn shafts. Follow the instructions with the kit for setting up the accelerator pump and such for your specific engine, as well as setting the choke.

Before you re-install the carb, remove the inline fuel filter and throw it away. Turn the fuel line up into a jug and crank the engine a few times and you should get a LOT of fuel in very short order. The fuel should also be fairly clean. If you get a lot of trash in your fuel, you really need to do something to clean out your fuel lines / tank. Install a new fuel filter and re-install the carb.

Press the gas pedal one time and verify that the choke is closing like it is supposed to. Start the truck and it should be running better already. It may not be perfect, but that's fine, you're not done! While the choke is applied, you can go ahead and set the cold high idle speed. It will no doubt change later, but you can get it in the ballpark. Verify that as the engine warms up the choke begins to open. After a few minutes you should be able to blip the throttle and the fast idle cam will fall out of the way and it will fall onto the normal throttle stop. At this time, adjust the hot low idle speed. Again, this will change, but you'll be in the ballpark. Once the engine is completely warmed up, fine tune the idle mixture adjustment. Once this is correct you will need to re-verify your timing and make any adjustments that are needed. Now that you have the idle mixture and timing set correctly, the only thing to do is re-set the idle speed, as playing with the mixture and timing have no doubt altered it some. Set the hot low idle speed and your truck should be running great.

If so the only other thing you would need to do is re-verify the cold high idle speed the next morning.

 

Is your choke working?

 

The choke thing (weather its a **** or button I dunno) in my cab neither turns nor pulls out. (Doesn't push in either but it not supposed to... right?)

 

A 76 should have some form of automatic choke and no controls inside.

 

Theres a lil black button lookin thing RELATIVELY close to ingtion

 

Got a picture? Somebody could have converted it at some point in time to a manual choke, but that doesn't sound like what you've got. Most of the time a manual choke is a **** that pulls out, and you can vary the amount of choke by the amount you pull out the ****.

Besides, you can tell really quick. Look at the little round black cap on the side of the carb. If it has a cable running from it, it's manual. If it just has wires and / or tubing, it's automatic.

 

[IMG]C:\Documents and Settings\Nancy Page\My Documents\My Pictures\2010-04 (Apr)\102_0747.JPG[/IMG]
thats my carb

 

****** ****er

 

You have to have webspace to do that. Your syntax is correct, but your link is to a location on your hard drive.

 

Seems as though a PO installed a manual choke and it's stuck in the open position (the **** should pull out to close the choke).

 

Very possible. However, if that were the case it should run alright once it's warmed up.

This leads me to believe that it doesn't run well when it's warmed up either. Maybe I made the mistake of assuming.

 

I lied byway, it is a manual choke and the choke in side doesnt move at all (well i tried it once but did move, gonna check again), and just went around the block with no airfilter and it died twice. air is not a prob...

 

Ok. Here's what we've got so far. It looks to be a standard old motorcraft 2100, identical to what's on my 302.

Here are the pictures:




Now here are a couple of points. This carb was probably supposed to have an electrically assisted hot air choke. Without a picture of the side I cannot tell for sure, but I see no indication that it has been converted to a manual choke, as I see no cable for it.

Here is what I think is going on. First, the choke is not adjsuted properly anyway, but we can get to that. The green arrow points to the choke cap in case there was any question. The red arrow points to what is probably the wire for the electric assist. I bet it plugs into the bottom of the choke.



The blue arrow is pointing to the hot air assist part which is not connected to anything. This means that your choke won't work properly even if you adjust it. All of this can be fixed fairly easily though.



As has been mentioned, it looks like your choke is not adjusted properly. The choke plate is wide open and probably never moves, judging by the position of the cap. Also, the inside of the carb looks pretty cruddy too. It really wouldn't be a bad idea to get a kit. The rebuild kit I bought was something like $12.

 

For comparison sake, here are a few pics of mine.

The blue arrows point to the hot air choke tubing. The red arrow points to the wire for the electric assist.



Here it is from the top. Notice the choke plate is mostly closed (it would slam completely closed if I blipped the throttle). And also notice how the inside of the carb is silver, not black.



Looks like you need some adjustments, and some cleaning and you'll be set doing great.