Tubing Benders/flangers
#32
03-26-2017, 02:36 PM
Thanks KP. Definitely some advantages for the nickel copper. When I get my mastercool, I'm going to try a small piece of each, just to compare. One thing against the stainless is the one you tube video the guy put out saying and documenting how the stainless ruined his mastercool dies. Not sure if it was his procedure or the stainless, or the quality of the tool.
#33
03-26-2017, 04:07 PM
Fleet Mechanic
#34
03-26-2017, 05:15 PM
#35
03-26-2017, 06:59 PM
Fleet Mechanic
The interweb learneds will be chirping about copper fuel lines. But, yes, the sand has to be tamped in really well.
These are aluminum. I had done done stainless lines originally, but a design change was necessary, and I didn't have enough stainless to start over. It is, obviously, harder with stainless.
And, you are welcome.
#36
03-27-2017, 03:35 PM
Hey guys, need confirmation. I'm going thru a lot of my set aside stock 56 Ford F-100 and 250 brake and fuel lines. I'm coming up with 3/16" on brake lines and 5/16" on fuel lines. Does anyone have information on stock lines that contradict that? I determined dimensions of lines by putting the open end of a box end wrench over each line until I found a wrench that fit perfectly over the outside diameter.
#37
03-28-2017, 11:15 AM
Cargo Master
Line size is based on what hardware you are using. 300HP and up I use a 3/8" fuel supply line.
Brake line depends on what brakes you are using, I just copy the OEM. I always run a 1/4" line from the prop valve to the rear wheel hose and then the rear wheels get what they came from the factory with. If your rear axle used 1/4" then use 1/4". All of my rears use 3/16" to each rear wheel, but none are duallys.
Brake line depends on what brakes you are using, I just copy the OEM. I always run a 1/4" line from the prop valve to the rear wheel hose and then the rear wheels get what they came from the factory with. If your rear axle used 1/4" then use 1/4". All of my rears use 3/16" to each rear wheel, but none are duallys.
#38
03-28-2017, 01:31 PM
Thanks Dave. If I use 1/4 from the brake reservoir to the rear axel and both rear wheels on the dual axel, and 3/16 from the reservoir to the front wheels, do I need a porportioninng valve to balance it? I am thinking not, if I have all drum brakes front and back? One of the attached articles suggested if using stainless, go with the AN fittings as they are less apt to split at the flare. Maybe not so critical if you use the stainless promoted by Classic Tube and In Line tube as being easier to use than regular stainless?
#39
03-28-2017, 01:47 PM
I didn't like the nicop because it was TO easy to bend. As in if I needed to tweak a bend then it would dent and not look right. And the stainless was not really that tough to work with. I think having the really nice flaring tool made that part so much easier. And using the nicop line as my test and sample lines just made things so much easier. As well as having the tip of setting up the guide bends really helped.
The next reason was the color I chose to do my frame. The copper color looked like crap next to it. The stainless looked so much nicer.
One last tip is make sure that you put your adapters on BEFORE you flare and do not assume that the will slide past a bend. Just me. They won't. LOL
I was looking to see an I have not taken any pics of my lines now that they are installed on the painted frame. I'll get so next time I'm in the garage.
The next reason was the color I chose to do my frame. The copper color looked like crap next to it. The stainless looked so much nicer.
One last tip is make sure that you put your adapters on BEFORE you flare and do not assume that the will slide past a bend. Just me. They won't. LOL
I was looking to see an I have not taken any pics of my lines now that they are installed on the painted frame. I'll get so next time I'm in the garage.
#40
03-28-2017, 05:20 PM
Cargo Master
4 wheel drums will not need a proportioning valve, I run discs on everything up front so I normally have one.
Myself I would only use stainless if it were a show truck, but that is up to you. I dont know what grade stainless is sold for brake lines, but it is certainly not the stainless I used at work for UHP gas lines. You couldn't flare that if your life depended on it.
For me the green coated or nickel / copper lines is fine, in fact painted plain old steel lines will be fine. I only drive the toys in the rain if I get caught in it and never in winter, so rusting brake lines isnt a concern.
Stainless I am sure is nice but I have never considered it.
Myself I would only use stainless if it were a show truck, but that is up to you. I dont know what grade stainless is sold for brake lines, but it is certainly not the stainless I used at work for UHP gas lines. You couldn't flare that if your life depended on it.
For me the green coated or nickel / copper lines is fine, in fact painted plain old steel lines will be fine. I only drive the toys in the rain if I get caught in it and never in winter, so rusting brake lines isnt a concern.
Stainless I am sure is nice but I have never considered it.
#41
03-28-2017, 07:45 PM
#42
03-29-2017, 12:02 PM
#43
04-09-2017, 06:18 PM
After more digging, I realized the donar 9" Ford truck axel I am swapping to my 56 F-100 had a 1/4" brake tube, but was reduced to 3/16" at the backing plate. So, with that discovery, I am going to 3/16" tubing front and back. I am still considering using braided steel from where the tubing drops down to the backing plate on the rear drums. Same as the front axel. The rear normally already has one flexible line from the rigid line to the axel, so I don't see any reason I cant eliminate that line and just put one on each side. Much cleaner install than running hard lines under or over axel and springs. Just come off the frame rail same as front. Anyone have any input on that alternative?
#44
04-10-2017, 07:36 AM
Fleet Mechanic
After more digging, I realized the donar 9" Ford truck axel I am swapping to my 56 F-100 had a 1/4" brake tube, but was reduced to 3/16" at the backing plate. So, with that discovery, I am going to 3/16" tubing front and back. I am still considering using braided steel from where the tubing drops down to the backing plate on the rear drums. Same as the front axel. The rear normally already has one flexible line from the rigid line to the axel, so I don't see any reason I cant eliminate that line and just put one on each side. Much cleaner install than running hard lines under or over axel and springs. Just come off the frame rail same as front. Anyone have any input on that alternative?
#45
04-10-2017, 09:57 AM
John, did you attach a photo to your response? I am not seeing it. Its like it pops up for just a second and then disappears. I'm guessing you used disk brakes on the rear? My issue is the same set up, but drum brakes, not disk brakes. Only thing I can figure out is to get two of the flex lines identical to the stock flex linethat drops from the frame rail to mid axel junction box. They are just a rubber hose, not stainless braided. I was hoping to find stainless braided hoses but for drum brakes (3/16 threads, male one end, female on the other). Only ones I have found so far are for disk brake conversions (I have those on the front).
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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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