When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i have there Part where i think it should be a water separator, but on the top sits a Gauge, so i dont think that it is the original seperator.
I do also a research on this Part, but i dont find it, if i can get one or a simular part i will replace it asap.
Its no Problem for me to find a shop that ships to Germany but i search for qualityparts, the returnlineset that i buy for $ 50 was a nightmare and not what i whant to buy agin ;-)
That one ^^^^^ only ships to the US, and Torsten is in Germany. Jan (Romel), since you're reading this thread, do you know of sellers here who would ship to Europe?
Following this thread because my '85 is doing the exact same thing. If I recall, the OEM Stanadyne fuel/water separator is another infamous source of air intrusion, correct? Torsten, do you still have the original water separator? It's on the firewall, driver's side, near the brake booster.
RD performance, Justin Anderson, R&D IDI Performance - Home He is nice guy, know him personaly. Or just ask some member here to buy it for you and drop it to mail. That is how I found some really good friends on the other side of globe
I repaired my factory water separator. The stick that seals to the bottom valve is usually good, the seat is damaged by corrosion. Just drilled the seat out and made a pipe with seat using the brake pipe tool and soldered in. Works ever since and it looks original, I am obsesed with originality. Ehm, the PS intercooler is not original, but the performance of the Banks sidewinder is even more impressive.
Maybe, but the only thing that matters is the oring, the cap is usually fine. My return cps are moist, but starts right up. Have u inspected the tanks, FSV, and all the joints on the fuel system? Hook the canister with diesel to your epump and try it. That rules out the tanks and FSV.
BTW skip glow plugs, they dont cause air intrusion. It has been 14 Celsius today, starts without glowplugs just fine. And the engine has seen better days, compresion test 5 cylinders 23 atm, 2 cylinders 22 atm and one 21 atm.
i dont have an e-pump, its the original mechanical Liftpump both tanks are claened, new sending units and new lines to the changing selector valve, from there Lines are original but good.
After i have check the Glowplugs i will try a temporary put a Checkvalve in the line after the selector valve and see what happend.
i dont have an e-pump, its the original mechanical Liftpump both tanks are claened, new sending units and new lines to the changing selector valve, from there Lines are original but good.
After i have check the Glowplugs i will try a temporary put a Checkvalve in the line after the selector valve and see what happend.
best regards
Torsten
Check the hose that goes to the lift pump, plus the fuel filter, do you have the 6.9 design or the 7.3 with heater?
its a 6.9 from 1985 so i have the Fuelheater in the Tube from the Liftpump to the Filterbody.
About the good discription from Macrobb i think maybe the Checkvalve in the Filterbody is not ok, so that Air from returnline can let the fuel sink down back to the tanks.
This is why i think a temp. Checkvalve can help me to see where the Problem is located.
If you need new "O" Rings for the caps. Here is the size you need.
You probably have a place on your side of the pond that would be cheaper.
Shipping might be a killer from here.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.