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While doing a visual inspection I noticed that the AIH hot wire (captured nut wire) had broken off and was laying loose. I removed the wire from the relay and made a new 8 gauge wire, I connected it to the relay and was about to add it to the AIH when I got a healthy spark ( it touched the ground wire ) and yes the truck was not running and the key was out at the time.
This sounds to me like the relay has gone south, am I right???
I have a new OEM relay to install but I have a question. In what order are the wires and ceramic fitting go on the AIH post???
Hi Steve, It's not so much that I need it here in Arizona. I just would like some answers to my questions.
Thanks for your reply.
Ed
what is the resistance across the two large terminals? If the relay is stuck on or there is a short to ground on the relay coil and 12V on the control side it will show some resistance with the relay off. There should not be voltage present on the opposite terminal to the hot wire AND no continuity between terminals.
Also check the two control wires. One should be open and one should be 12V. Computer controls ground signal to relay.
Hi Dirtscooter, good job, I think you hit the nail on the head, I did not think there should be power to the opposite terminal from the power terminal when the truck was off (thus the sparking on the ground wire) when I checked the relay the next morning there was not power to that terminal.
Now care to take a shot at In what order are the wires and ceramic fitting go on the AIH post? I am thinking Ground Wire First, Then Ceramic Insulator and then Hot/Power wire from the relay. Am I right?
Thank you for your help
Ed
Hi Dirtscooter, good job, I think you hit the nail on the head, I did not think there should be power to the opposite terminal from the power terminal when the truck was off (thus the sparking on the ground wire) when I checked the relay the next morning there was not power to that terminal.
Now care to take a shot at In what order are the wires and ceramic fitting go on the AIH post? I am thinking Ground Wire First, Then Ceramic Insulator and then Hot/Power wire from the relay. Am I right?
Thank you for your help
Ed
Correct! I was going to take a pic but it is self explanatory. Ground first, insulator, positive and nut!
In theory, it should make a difference I don't believe. It is just a resistor and all it needs is the 12v of potential difference across it to work.......
In theory, it should make a difference I don't believe. It is just a resistor and all it needs is the 12v of potential difference across it to work.......
Technically that is true however if you put 12v on first your whole entire spider would have 12v on it if the relay failed closed and also when the relay activated.
Dirtscooter, you are a life saver, thank you very much for your input. Tomorrow is Saturday looks like I have some lite Mechanical work to do. Also I am going to replace my Glow Plug Relay while I am at it, 251K miles it is still going through the terrible 2s.
Thanks Again
Ed
Dirtscooter, you are a life saver, thank you very much for your input. Tomorrow is Saturday looks like I have some lite Mechanical work to do. Also I am going to replace my Glow Plug Relay while I am at it, 251K miles it is still going through the terrible 2s.
Thanks Again
Ed
Glad I could help! Did you get the gpr109 or stancor 586?
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