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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Re-Gluing running lights

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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 03:40 AM
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Re-Gluing running lights

Hey all, while replacing a bulb in the factory running lamps on the roof of my 86 1 ton, the marker shield (amber lense) popped clean off the base (grey plastic). It's a truck-lite 25300 part number which I'm not having much luck finding a replacement, not wanting to do a Chinese special which would require cutting and splicing wires. Is there a possibility that I can use some sort of epoxy to re-glue? Thanks!
 
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 05:50 AM
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You're probably better off using a plastic cement to fuse the lens back onto the base.

​​​​​​​
 
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 09:27 AM
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I would use model glue as it is used on plastic.
Dave - - - -
 
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 10:47 AM
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I read a neat little article comparing cements to ca glue. They claimed the super glue broke down when actually exposed to the elements for a substantial time. Whereas a cement such as a gorilla glue was better off. Then again, neither of these were used for this application and no proof was shown. I have considered an epoxy such as jb weld's plastic weld, or gorilla glue, or a model cement.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 11:39 AM
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CA is sensitive to ultraviolet (though some CA's use UV as a trigger)
Anything but a solvent based cement is just a mechanical bond to old, oxidized plastic, likely to fail from exposure and vibration.

Idk whether these lights are styrene, acrylic, polycarbonate, ABS, PVC, or.....

I've had good luck with Scigrip/Weldon 16
It seems to strike the balance between viscosity and solvency.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 12:12 PM
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My best guess is acrylic, but I'm no plastics expert.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 12:54 PM
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Might be two different materials. PS and ABS are two strong possibilities. Should be coded in the lettering somewhere.

Why would you need to rewire it if you got an aftermarket housing? Just get a new set of these - https://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/t...w-p-u13-25760y - EXACT same as OEM. At $5-ish apiece, you're better off with a full set of new ones (you can bet the seals on your other lights are failing).
 
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 03:23 PM
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I'm leaning towards buying new, I'm not that cheap, but I do have a set that is a direct oem replacement, except the plug socket is smaller diameter. I guess I'll have to pull a number off the bulb socket to see if it will fit. I only saw the one part number on mine, so that's what I searched for.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 03:26 PM
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I know it's a factory plug, wire, pigtail and socket. So when I was told it was a oem replacement, imagine the disgust when I found out I couldn't fit the socket in their marker.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by crucialprospect
I know it's a factory plug, wire, pigtail and socket. So when I was told it was a oem replacement, imagine the disgust when I found out I couldn't fit the socket in their marker.
Lower pic:
 
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 06:15 PM
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I have those ^^^^^^ Truck-Lites in a '95 and an '85, with the OEM sockets/wiring, perfect fit.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 08:54 PM
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Sounds good, I guess it will be easier to order new. I was not doubting those lights would work, I hope you didn't take it that way, I only meant how the aftermarket is quick to say "oem" and I only searched for the part number in hand because I physically knew it would work. I figured there was a bunch of cross references parts numbers and obsolete ones by this time, and it's good to know it is factual!

thanks everyone!
 
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