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I promise I've searched and couldn't find an answer. I have a '77, 400M with about 93,000 miles on it. Can I get some oil recommendations? Currently, truck runs great, it does not burn any oil, and I've not noticed any oil leaks (only had the truck a month). Any advice would be appreciated.
The common vote round here is Rotella for the Zinc content...... But oil is kinda like 'whats the best gun' question.... There are no right answers....
Contrary to most opinions, you should use the lightest weight oil you can get away with. The whole point is to get that oil flowing, so start with an oil that flows.
You also want zinc in the oil. Most oils have removed zinc, cuz it's bad for catalytic converters.
Even diesel oils, like rotella, are re-formulating.
I've been using Lucas Classic 10w-30 or Valvoline VR1 racing
Contrary to most opinions, you should use the lightest weight oil you can get away with. The whole point is to get that oil flowing, so start with an oil that flows.
You also want zinc in the oil. Most oils have removed zinc, cuz it's bad for catalytic converters.
Even diesel oils, like rotella, are re-formulating.
I've been using Lucas Classic 10w-30 or Valvoline VR1 racing
See there I didn't know there were lighter weight high zinc oils like Papa posted..... May have to consider that, but with spring upon us I will stick with Rotella until the fall and then consider a lighter high zinc oil such as those displayed above...... Learn something new here every day...
"What was discovered through oil testing by several engine component manufacturers is that many older engines experience a short period of time during engine start-up where critical lubrication is insufficient between metal-to-metal lubrication points when using modern oils with reduced amounts of ZDDP/ZDTP. These same enhancers unfortunately have their downside: The phosphorus in this compound creates carbon buildup in engine bores and valvetrains, and both compounds can also lead to the early demise of catalytic converters. For this reason, the industry has been phasing out zinc and phosphorus levels since 1994, when the American Petroleum Institute’s SH designation became the industry standard, and levels have been further reduced in each subsequent API rating for engine oils. Manufacturers have tried adding more boron to offset the effects of the reduced zinc and phosphorus levels; however, the dry start protection does not measure up to those using more ZDDP/ZDTP. This has opened up a whole new market for zinc/phosphorus additives for oil and many camshaft and engine manufacturers now recommend that an additive be used in initial break-in and for regular use." https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2012/1...older-engines/
So in conclusion, its good for older design engines and last time I was under my truck (bout an hour ago) I didnt see any catalytic converters under there .... and if I did, it would be sawzall time
x2 on the Valvoline VR1 (conventional or synthetic) and 10w-30 weight - it's what I run in mine. Diesel engine oils have more detergents in them than gas engine oils - too much of a good thing can be bad. "high zinc" labeled oils aren't always higher than standard oils from a decade ago so don't live by the label, do the research. Lots of articles like this one: http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...**Good-read*** . Think of it this way, Jack Daniels Black label was 90 proof before 1987, been 80 proof since.
x2 on the Valvoline VR1 (conventional or synthetic) and 10w-30 weight - it's what I run in mine. Diesel engine oils have more detergents in them than gas engine oils - too much of a good thing can be bad. "high zinc" labeled oils aren't always higher than standard oils from a decade ago so don't live by the label, do the research. Lots of articles like this one: What oil brands offer the best protection ***Good read*** . Think of it this way, Jack Daniels Black label was 90 proof before 1987, been 80 proof since).
Thanks, kegger, for linking that article. Guess I'll quit buying the Lucas classic and stick with the Valvoline. It's less expensive anyway.
HIO, thanks for your reply. Can you explain the diesel reference?
First of all, there is no such thing as a clean diesels. They are inherently dirty and newer diesel trucks require Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) to treat their combusted gases before being discharged.
As a dirty combustion cycle, lubricants have to have extra detergents to suspend and /or emulsify the particulates as compared to standard/typical oils. The levels of ZDDP and phosphorus have decreased across the board since computer controlled engine systems, metallurgy, and tolerances have markedly improved since the early 2000s.
Our old rigs should use diesel spec oil because those additive levels are equal to the conventionals of yesteryear.
First of all, there is no such thing as a clean diesels. They are inherently dirty and newer diesel trucks require Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) to treat their combusted gases before being discharged.
As a dirty combustion cycle, lubricants have to have extra detergents to suspend and /or emulsify the particulates as compared to standard/typical oils. The levels of ZDDP and phosphorus have decreased across the board since computer controlled engine systems, metallurgy, and tolerances have markedly improved since the early 2000s.
Our old rigs should use diesel spec oil because those additive levels are equal to the conventionals of yesteryear.
Buddy, I'm not gonna bull**** ya. Most of that went way over my head. Any chance you can dumb that down a bit?
.... and if I did, it would be sawzall time 
