4WD not engaging
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 246
Likes: 26
From: Bucks County, PA
4WD not engaging
I had to make a few trips up and down the snow covered driveway. I moved the dash switch to 4wd high for each trip and then back to 2wd when I was turning around at each end. On my final trip back, I got stuck while turning around in 2wd. I tried switching to 4wd high and low but could not get either to engage with rocking back and forth. The dash light did not come on and only the rear right wheel was spinning. Shifting to park or neutral and turning the switch to 4wd did not change the results. When I finally got myself unstuck, the 4wd still wouldn't engage when driving in a straight line.
What could have broke or stopped working? Bad vacuum line? Bad fuse? Could I have still initiated 4wd by manually locking the hubs? If so, is the process with the dash switch still the same even when manually locking the hubs?
What could have broke or stopped working? Bad vacuum line? Bad fuse? Could I have still initiated 4wd by manually locking the hubs? If so, is the process with the dash switch still the same even when manually locking the hubs?
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 344
Likes: 8
From: Kennedy, NY 14747
I'm new to this ford shift on the fly system without manually locking the hubs.
They way I understand it is. With the hubs on auto setting. Setting the switch in the cab to 4 WD supplies vacuum to the knuckles on both front wheels which goes to the hubs to lock them in.
Many problems seem to come from lack of vaccum.
Locking the hubs manually, then switching to 4wd should work if your electronics are working.
Use the search an enter 4wd not working. You will find a lot of info.
If I'm wrong on any of this info. Someone please correct me.
I'm used to manual shifters and hubs. Not this auto-magic new stuff.
Good luck
They way I understand it is. With the hubs on auto setting. Setting the switch in the cab to 4 WD supplies vacuum to the knuckles on both front wheels which goes to the hubs to lock them in.
Many problems seem to come from lack of vaccum.
Locking the hubs manually, then switching to 4wd should work if your electronics are working.
Use the search an enter 4wd not working. You will find a lot of info.
If I'm wrong on any of this info. Someone please correct me.
I'm used to manual shifters and hubs. Not this auto-magic new stuff.
Good luck
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
The dash light is only connected to the transfer case engagement.
So I'd look at that end of the system,
There is no dash indicator for the hub system. Maybe they are working maybe not....your computer doesn't know.
So I'd look at that end of the system,
There is no dash indicator for the hub system. Maybe they are working maybe not....your computer doesn't know.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 4
From: North Texas
Think of the auto hubs like a retractable ink pen. You can click it out or in. It takes longer to click one way than the other...The hubs are similar and the vacuum pulses supplied are long or short depending on engaging or disengaging. It's not a constant vacuum or it would slowly fill your engine with muck as soon as it leaks, which it will. I agree with replacing them with manual hubs if you want to increase the reliability of the system engaging and disengaging when you want it to. None of this is your primary problem though, the others covered that. Your transfer case wasn't engaging.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 12,258
Likes: 768
From: Houston, Texas
The last time this happened to me I almost drowned my 6.0 Excursion....
The culprit was the two relays below the hood near the underwood fuse box. I replaced them and my transfer case started engaging again. Before the light would come on the dash, but that's it...
If for some strange reason it still won't work, check the solenoid on the passenger side fender., it has a single plug going to it along with vacuum lines. Try this provided that your vacuum lines going to the hubs themselves aren't dry rotted.
The culprit was the two relays below the hood near the underwood fuse box. I replaced them and my transfer case started engaging again. Before the light would come on the dash, but that's it...
If for some strange reason it still won't work, check the solenoid on the passenger side fender., it has a single plug going to it along with vacuum lines. Try this provided that your vacuum lines going to the hubs themselves aren't dry rotted.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 287
Likes: 1
From: Cedar Lake, IN
It could possibly be an electric issue. Bad ground maybe? I've used manual locking hubs all my life and just recently started learning about the auto stuff, so don't hold it against me as its merely a suggestion.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,108
Likes: 23
I have lamented over the ESOF through 2 Excursions now. I was a purist and wanted the auto lock hubs to work just like they are supposed to. As Pirate pointed out, there is no indicator for the hubs. Currently, my right hub will autolock but the left will not....so I just manually lock them. One locked hub is a recipe for disaster. You hit ice like that you better have good insurance...trust me I know. Now I just manually lock them so that I know they are locked--I don't like guessing FWIW
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
Sure you can, reach in and turn the axle at the ujoint by hand. If it turns the hub is unlocked, if it doesn't turn the hub is locked. ( it takes a firm twist to get the axle to turn )
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,108
Likes: 23
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 4
From: North Texas
Yeah I just don't wanna lay under the truck on each side every time I use 4x4 only to have to fiddle with the ESOF hubs. One of mine was so bad I had to remove it to unlock that side. It worked for a few months after doing the cleaning procedure but went right back to its old sticking ways. So while they are manual, they don't work as well unlocking as true manual only hubs.