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The way the mechanism inside works, they can stay locked either way. The manual part of locking them just does what the vacuum normally does and pushes the parts together. They still rely on spring pressure to unlock.
I like my ESOF, so I take care of it and keep up with the hoses, vacuum connectors and parts. You have to test it monthly, or you may find yourself in a position some posters above have. I recently found the vacuum connector from the hard line under the engine to the driver's side hose had worn through. Replaced it for less than a $1 and back in business again. Take care of those auto hubs, and they won't freeze up on you, either. Mine haven't yet, and I rarely use my 4x4. I will be using it a lot in the future now that I bought my retirement place in the boonies.
I had to make a few trips up and down the snow covered driveway. I moved the dash switch to 4wd high for each trip and then back to 2wd when I was turning around at each end.
While the rest of the guys have you covered regarding the tech, I have to satisfy my curiosity and ask you this: Why did you disengage your 4-wheel when turning around? Why didn't you leave it in 4H?
While the rest of the guys have you covered regarding the tech, I have to satisfy my curiosity and ask you this: Why did you disengage your 4-wheel when turning around? Why didn't you leave it in 4H?
Stewart
Tight space maybe and he needed to drift the rear end around to make it work? Probably not though, he just needs to learn how the hi and low work it sounds like
The way the mechanism inside works, they can stay locked either way. The manual part of locking them just does what the vacuum normally does and pushes the parts together. They still rely on spring pressure to unlock.
I get what your saying about spring pressure.
So it's possible a hub can remained locked even when you manually disconnect it?
I have been using manual hubs for decades and never saw that.
I think that's why I'm confused here.
Do the springs break or loose tension?
I have used my system manually the last 2 winters.the hubs were very hard to turn at first. But have loosened with use.
ESOF was great right up until it wasnt. Regular Warn or mile marker manual hubs are a bit different internally, but are metal with large flat springs, but with the Ford ESOF hubs, it is plastic parts inside with a different weaker spring, and they can bind up. Be it dirt, bad hub seals letting stuff in, weak spring, hardened lube, wear or whatever causes it. There is a thread in the stickies about cleaning your hubs out which involves disassembling them. I did that several times and they still would not reliably unlock. Even using them manually. I exercise my 4wd monthly. Usually first work day of the month. (PM's are an unfortunate side effect of an aircraft maintenance career, lol) I would always get out and check after work and found them locked too many times. Was able to recreate it using them manually, which still applies the vacuum pulses when you use the dash switch, and gave up on them partly due to the cost of replacing them. The mile markers haven't failed yet and don't require vac lines or seals to work so I was able to eliminate the lines and cap off under the hood.
ESOF was great right up until it wasnt. Regular Warn or mile marker manual hubs are a bit different internally, but are metal with large flat springs, but with the Ford ESOF hubs, it is plastic parts inside with a different weaker spring, and they can bind up. Be it dirt, bad hub seals letting stuff in, weak spring, hardened lube, wear or whatever causes it. There is a thread in the stickies about cleaning your hubs out which involves disassembling them. I did that several times and they still would not reliably unlock. Even using them manually. I exercise my 4wd monthly. Usually first work day of the month. (PM's are an unfortunate side effect of an aircraft maintenance career, lol) I would always get out and check after work and found them locked too many times. Was able to recreate it using them manually, which still applies the vacuum pulses when you use the dash switch, and gave up on them partly due to the cost of replacing them. The mile markers haven't failed yet and don't require vac lines or seals to work so I was able to eliminate the lines and cap off under the hood.
Thanks, that's helping me understand.
I will look into that hub cleaning thread to better understand the differences between the normal manual hub and the type we have.
I figured a cleaning/servicing of the hubs was in the near future.
Now you have me wondering if I should just upgrade and be done with it.
The convenience of ESOF is undeniable, that is for sure. I would clean them out per guzzles thread and maybe one of the YouTube videos that covers it. Then see how they work for you. It is an easy procedure and doesn't take long. If they work reliably, no reason to lose them. If you want an increase in reliability and your ESOF hubs don't work properly, then it makes sense to swap for manual hubs.
The convenience of auto hubs is great when they work but even then they are a good bit more fragile then manual aftermarket hubs due to being made out of plastic and not metal.
A common way to break the stock hub is being stuck in snow or ice and spinning a tire. if the wheel grabs sudden traction the hub will explode.
I'm not crazy about any of this auto-magic locking systems. I have seen to many problems and they always happen when you need 4wd.
Give me manual shift transfer-cases and good locking hubs. They work when you need them.
Pirates point about these hubs coming apart under load because of plastic parts is a good one. Especially on such a heavy truck with heavy tires and wheels.
The convenience of auto hubs is great when they work but even then they are a good bit more fragile then manual aftermarket hubs due to being made out of plastic and not metal.
A common way to break the stock hub is being stuck in snow or ice and spinning a tire. if the wheel grabs sudden traction the hub will explode.
Well heck Pirate, you are Mr Sunshine today aren't you??
In the spirit of the discusion, I assume the aftermarket hubs will not stay locked once they are unlocked?? If so, is it the spring size or just crap versus quality?
I believe it to be the overall design. The automatic stuff in the ESOF hub is what I believe hung mine up. Obviously the aftermarket manual hubs have none of that in the mix. The plastic plate at the bottom next to the diaphragm if I had to guess what exactly was causing my issues.