When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My truck is the 86 6.9 IDI 2wd 4spd wtb the TIB.
I found a TTB at the junkyard last weekend and bought it, what I need help with is this. Been lookin for specs and diagrams but not finding much on the radius arms or kits of that sort. I work at a fab shop so metal and welding is t a problem.
Can you you guys help me out with diagrams and specs/dimensions or any other tips or advice?
I need help specifically with:
-after market radius arms arms that I want to build
-i want the truck to be able to run 35-37 inch tires
-will I need to change or replace shock towers?
-brackets
-shocks coils that are preferable
-and urethane bushing kits
-also ring and pinions, for some reason I can't find any 3.54 reverse for the front
-transfer case and front drive shaft
-will I have to have to change tranny?
-any upgrades or advice to the ttb?
-
i know I'm asking a lot but anything helps, this is my first ford truck (mopar guy), but it has the international motor so I like it.
Gonna start art a new thread soon about putting a turbo on but that's a whole other beast, wanna button up the bottom before going into the engine bay.
Just wondering what the appeal is with the coil spring and radius arm setup as opposed to putting leaf springs on it? Articulation? or just a smoother ride? The leaf setup is a lot less trouble and a lot more durable under the weight of that IDI. Of course, It's your rig....just curious
Well I wasn't sure if it would be easier to go with leaf springs or keep the shock towers that are on it. I'm new to 4x4 and my truck already has towers on it so I figured it would just be a cutting and welding issue with brackets to fit the ttb to what I already have. Am I backwards with that train of thought?
No, I don't think it's a backwards train of thought at all. You're looking for the easy swap. I'm not sure of how different the 2wd TIB mounting positions are from the TTB. Ive only seen it in my old bronco. I do know that it is a more complicated suspension system than the leaf spring one. I'm curious as well so I will shut up and see if one of the wiser dudes on here have the answer
On the other hand... I think the leaf springs are a much stronger, better solution. Why go with anything less? The IDI is a pretty heavy motor as it is!
Just duplicate the brackets on the truck you are pulling it off of, except modify them as drop brackets to drop all the mounting points down X inches for your lift.
As long as you drop all 3 points on each side(front and rear spring mount, center pivot) the same amount, your wheels will stay level and it'll turn OK.
You will need to figure out the steering gear though - either just drop the steering box the same amount, or change the pitman arm.
The "The '80-'86 Sticky - Tech Tips & Tricks" sticky thread over on the bullnose forum has a section about axles, you might be able to find good info there
The d50 ttb is equal length. The tib/d44 ttb in f150's are unequal length. You're going to have to source everything and customize your build including the leaf mounts.
Or you can steal a 2005+ Dana 60, including the coil buckets and radius arms, and throw it in on a weekend. The buckets use the same holes as the old ones. Nevermind the unit bearings, they are larger and do a much better job than the 99-04 rigs.
On the other hand... I think the leaf springs are a much stronger, better solution. Why go with anything less? The IDI is a pretty heavy motor as it is!
Just duplicate the brackets on the truck you are pulling it off of, except modify them as drop brackets to drop all the mounting points down X inches for your lift.
You will need to figure out the steering gear though - either just drop the steering box the same amount, or change the pitman arm.
You say why go with anything less, then propose hacking it up by dropping the spring mounting points so they can bang into things and otherwise be hokey. Maximize ground clearance, keep the shackle mounts as close to the frame as possible. It would make more sense to use Superduty springs (longer than factory '80-'97) with an add a leaf or aftermarket as need be to achieve desired lift and maintain ride quality.
Also, dropping the steering box sounds like a recipe for disaster. There is a lot of stress on the steering box mounting, frames do crack there and at the crossmember just behind the box. Use a drop pitman arm or convert to high steer, don't do a hackjob that could get you hurt or killed.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.