Rear Axle: Trouble Removing C-Clip
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Rear Axle: Trouble Removing C-Clip
2000 F-150 4x4. 8.8" Rr Axle.
Need to replace my right rear bearing and axle seal. Have removed cover, both spider gears, and center pin, but no matter how hard I push I can't get the axle to go in far enough to remove the C-Clip so that I can pull the axle out to replace the bearing and seal. I've searched the forums and I've watched videos on youtube, but nobody seems to address this particular issue. Everybody makes it seem so simple. Can somebody tell me what I'm doing wrong?
Need to replace my right rear bearing and axle seal. Have removed cover, both spider gears, and center pin, but no matter how hard I push I can't get the axle to go in far enough to remove the C-Clip so that I can pull the axle out to replace the bearing and seal. I've searched the forums and I've watched videos on youtube, but nobody seems to address this particular issue. Everybody makes it seem so simple. Can somebody tell me what I'm doing wrong?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
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Use a 12 pound hammer on the end of the axle.
All there is is some clearance at the outer axle housing area to allow enough inward play to get the clip out..
The C clip end is only a Spline for the spider gear to hold onto the axle and drive it.
You have no other choice.
The axle likely is froze fast to the wheel bearing in the outside housing bore.
Good luck.
All there is is some clearance at the outer axle housing area to allow enough inward play to get the clip out..
The C clip end is only a Spline for the spider gear to hold onto the axle and drive it.
You have no other choice.
The axle likely is froze fast to the wheel bearing in the outside housing bore.
Good luck.
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The axle is completely free-floating inside the bore. The bearing is completely destroyed. The axle will move up and down 6 inches, but it will only move in or out about 1/16" of an inch. Would it help to remove the s-clip from between the side gears? I've never done one of these 8.8's so I'm not sure. I'll try the sledge tomorrow and thanks for the response.
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 354
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From: Katy, Republic of Texas
Silly question, but is the brake caliper off? (I know, but it needs to be asked). If drum, are the drums taken off?
When I pulled mine (in a spare 8.8 and in the 9.75 in my truck) I only had to remove the center pin, the spider gears did not come out. Just pulled the pin, pushed in on the axle, pulled the c-clip.
Bluegrass may be right, the bearing may be seized to the axle keeping it from moving in. A BFH should take care of it.
Good luck and report back.
When I pulled mine (in a spare 8.8 and in the 9.75 in my truck) I only had to remove the center pin, the spider gears did not come out. Just pulled the pin, pushed in on the axle, pulled the c-clip.
Bluegrass may be right, the bearing may be seized to the axle keeping it from moving in. A BFH should take care of it.
Good luck and report back.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Florida
I just did this exact same replacement. Make sure that the back of a wheel stud is not hitting the emergency brake assembly as you push the axle towards the differential. You may have have to rotate the axle sightly. Just make sure your gears stay in place when you do this.
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Thanks guys. Yes, the caliper and rotor are both off. I don't think there's a stud issue with the e-brake but I'll check when I get home tonight. I ended up going back outside last night and trying Bluegrass_7's suggestion. I put a 2x4 between the studs over the axle and slapped it with an 8 lb sledge.....hard enough to knock the truck off the jack. Can we say "oops". Getting it back up on the jack will be the first order of business tonight.
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 354
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From: Katy, Republic of Texas
I just did this exact same replacement. Make sure that the back of a wheel stud is not hitting the emergency brake assembly as you push the axle towards the differential. You may have have to rotate the axle sightly. Just make sure your gears stay in place when you do this.
Thanks guys. Yes, the caliper and rotor are both off. I don't think there's a stud issue with the e-brake but I'll check when I get home tonight. I ended up going back outside last night and trying Bluegrass_7's suggestion. I put a 2x4 between the studs over the axle and slapped it with an 8 lb sledge.....hard enough to knock the truck off the jack. Can we say "oops". Getting it back up on the jack will be the first order of business tonight.
Good luck with it.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Raleigh USA
If you have that much up and down play then most likely the bearing has ate into the axle and its getting caught on the groove. You definitely shouldn't have to hit it with a sledgehammer.
Try picking up on the axle a little to center it in the bearing. Or you could have the S spring slightly out of place and the end of the axle is hitting that.
Try picking up on the axle a little to center it in the bearing. Or you could have the S spring slightly out of place and the end of the axle is hitting that.
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I did, indeed, have to hit it with the sledgehammer. Twice. As Bluegrass_7 said, the axle was frozen in the side gear...I suspect this was from the heat generated when the seal/bearing went bad and the axle was spinning with no lube for an undetermined period of time. Also, pounder90 made me check some stuff and it's entirely possible that the back of axle was hitting the parking brake although it's hard to tell. I rotated the studs to make sure they cleared the bottom of the top of the p-brake assembly. The bearing did eat into the axle and I've gotten it mostly buffed out. I originally bought the incorrect replacement parts (purchased bearing/race/seal for 9.75" instead of 8.8") and I thought I'd corrected that last night, but it turns out the folks at AutoZone gave me the incorrect bearing/race again. Ugh. Going to try a different AutoZone store today and see if I can get somebody on the other end who actually knows which part is which.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Raleigh USA
If the axle is damaged it will damage the new bearing. You can get an offset bearing that will keep you from having to replace the axle. National RP6408 - Wheel Bearing | O'Reilly Auto Parts
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FML. Got the correct bearing from AutoZone in Sumter, SC yesterday afternoon. Had 2mm left to go to get it seated and promptly destroyed my brand new bearing. Thank God they're only $7.99. I'll be going back for another one this afternoon. I'll also have to buy a bearing puller slide hammer to get the "new/destroyed" bearing out. Wish I just had an attachment for my pneumatic slide hammer that i use for pulling dents. If bullfrogs had wings....
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Florida
I would recommend against the $7.99 bearings from AutoZone. They have 2 bearings under the same p/n, 6408. I thought I was getting the $17.99 bearings with the correct part number. After the job, I realized they sold me the $7.99 bearings. They are way too loud. I will be replacing them. Since this is a job you only want to do once, I would recommend the better bearings.
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Thanks for the input. I did indeed use the p/n 6408 for $7.99. Those are the DuraLast bearings. The $17.99 bearings are from National. Considering I broke the Duralasts I might try the Nationals just to see if they're a little more stout going in. I don't think I did anything wrong...I think the rollers just popped out. I sort of wish there were a separate race/bearing that would work in this application.
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pounder90, I don't think I ever got back to you on this. I did indeed take your advice and use the $17.99 bearings from National (same p/n 6408) and......they worked like a champ. Went right in and are doing great with about 200 miles on them so far and no issues. Thanks for the advice...one look at the National bearings side-by-side with the Duralast and it was easy to see that the National bearing was more robust and more stoutly built.