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HG's were blown between 2&3, 6&7. Heads were sent to a known 6.0 shop. Magna-fluxed, pressure tested and check for flatness. Heads were not cracked anywhere. Milled and didn't clean up till .008. Which I heard was max that should be taken off.
I'll be running a pressure test this week to see what my pressures are now.
In the mean time I'll do the run it till its warm. Release pressure and see has fast it builds up pressure again.
Thx for all the replies and idea's
Kinda makes me wonder if shaving the heads creates more potential for failure. If I am not mistaken this raises the compression. I know SDS does measure protrusion and it can be altered by modifying the head.
Randy: IIRC you had brought up some time back that the studs actually come in different strength ratings? So studs are not just studs, some may stretch just like TTY bolts, do I have that right?
xaviar: were you aware of this and do you know what you put in back when you did the job 1st time? Note Randy's sig shows H11 studs...
Eddy - I am hoping that you have leaking welds on the EGR cooler. I think this is at least as possible as the heads lifting again. Not sure there is a good way to tell, but I would start by looking in the intake.
BPD posted a test that they say helps discern the difference. I will post the link when I find it.
But head bolts are not the only concern. Somewhere here or the org I recently talked about surface finish, something that often isn't appreciated with motor work, by mechanics or machine shops unfortunately. I've watched some vid where a 6.0 block is scraped clean using a square iron bar by a well respected individual as an example. That just knocks off the toothed top of the surface finish allowing for the possibility of the gasket to move horizontally during combustion, even with good clamping.
Randy: IIRC you had brought up some time back that the studs actually come in different strength ratings? So studs are not just studs, some may stretch just like TTY bolts, do I have that right?
xaviar: were you aware of this and do you know what you put in back when you did the job 1st time? Note Randy's sig shows H11 studs...
Just sounding out all possibilities here...
Scott
I did not know there were different strengths. I used ARP's. I forget the part #. When I did my HG's. There was a new torque sequence released, different molly lube and 3 stage torque process. When torquing the heads it's first done at 70ft lbs, then 140ft lbs and a final torque of 210. Followed to the letter and checked twice.
As soon as the weather breaks. I'm going to pull the covers and check again. Waiting on a pressure gauge to do a drive test. Got my tee and hoses set up ready to go.
Oh, btw, I used assy lube on all studs entering the block, washers, nuts and finger tight only.
Thanks for the link Mark.
Just got home from a 100 mile trip. Popped the hood. No puking??? Anti freeze level right on my mark.