TS1 Lockable Fuel Door Mod (Easy Instructions!)
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Posting Guru
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From: Finger Lakes, NY
Many on this Forum have complained that their fuel doors get blown open in a car wash.
Logistics Pro
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From: SEVA
Very nice write-up. I've installed similar lock cylinders and found they all have a flat side to prevent them from rotating in the hole. The difficult part is making a hole with a flat side, but should be fairly easy to file the needed shape in the plastic door. Did you not bother with that since you drilled a 3/4" diameter hole, or did I miss a step?
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Posting Guru
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From: Finger Lakes, NY
Very nice write-up. I've installed similar lock cylinders and found they all have a flat side to prevent them from rotating in the hole. The difficult part is making a hole with a flat side, but should be fairly easy to file the needed shape in the plastic door. Did you not bother with that since you drilled a 3/4" diameter hole, or did I miss a step?
I still believe just the visual of having it is worth it's weight in gold.
I guess you have to realize you're drilling a $200 dollar door that is replaceable, not an $80K truck.
Cheers
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From: Medford, OR
While I would much prefer a remote cable release, I've been giving some thought adding a lock to the door. I don't se much to gain by going with a lock that uses a common key. Then, BOLT technology (a way to easily use the vehicle's key in various types of accessory locks) came along. I haven't been able to find a cabinet lock using BOLT, but I recently changed the latch on my toolbox to one with a BOLT cylinder, and found that BOLT has replacement cylinders for this latch that looks like it could have a cam added. If anyone's curious, Amazon has a pretty good picture of it. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...KIKX0DER&psc=1
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From: Finger Lakes, NY
Remote cable release latch is preferred by just about everyone I would imagine. As mentioned several times^, Ford should have this already in place, but they don't. 
My big gain was/is visual diversion. Mainly for campgrounds and bored kids wondering about. Latch suggested (k7lvo) above seems like a good one, but I just think the one's that want in, are going to get in no matter what lockset is used, especially on a flimsy plastic door. With that being said, you can get as security-wise as you want with a lockset, but there is another much weaker link involved.
This door would have to be redesigned by OEM to involve security along with a remote triggered cable release. Just my observation of course.
My big gain was/is visual diversion. Mainly for campgrounds and bored kids wondering about. Latch suggested (k7lvo) above seems like a good one, but I just think the one's that want in, are going to get in no matter what lockset is used, especially on a flimsy plastic door. With that being said, you can get as security-wise as you want with a lockset, but there is another much weaker link involved.
This door would have to be redesigned by OEM to involve security along with a remote triggered cable release. Just my observation of course.
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Nice write up and many seem to be interested. But I think the same as you. I'm not too keen on drilling a body part and adding another task at fueling time. For me a locking cap would suffice. I can see myself swearing when it's below zero or windy and snowy trying to fumble with a key for the fuel door and another for a locking cap.
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Excellent idea! Not sure I have the **lls to start drilling into truck though. 🤔
Locking cap for sure! Maybe there's a way to add a magnetic catch to the fuel door as an alternative just to keep it shut tight (for those having issues at the car wash with their flaps popping open) 😲
Locking cap for sure! Maybe there's a way to add a magnetic catch to the fuel door as an alternative just to keep it shut tight (for those having issues at the car wash with their flaps popping open) 😲
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TS1 Lockable Fuel Door Mod
Going to do this, Question
Is the 11/2 inch hole on rear inner inside plastic so as to get the locking secure nut for shaft more secure ? Where as in your picture
which you explained. You had just drilled from picture straight thru with 3/4 hole. It looks like you secured it from inside without the 3/4 hole. Is that correct ? This is a great mod you did. Please explain, why 11/2 in hole. most appreciated
Is the 11/2 inch hole on rear inner inside plastic so as to get the locking secure nut for shaft more secure ? Where as in your picture
which you explained. You had just drilled from picture straight thru with 3/4 hole. It looks like you secured it from inside without the 3/4 hole. Is that correct ? This is a great mod you did. Please explain, why 11/2 in hole. most appreciated
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,529
Likes: 390
From: SEVA
Going to do this, Question
Is the 11/2 inch hole on rear inner inside plastic so as to get the locking secure nut for shaft more secure ? Where as in your picture
which you explained. You had just drilled from picture straight thru with 3/4 hole. It looks like you secured it from inside without the 3/4 hole. Is that correct ? This is a great mod you did. Please explain, why 11/2 in hole. most appreciated
Is the 11/2 inch hole on rear inner inside plastic so as to get the locking secure nut for shaft more secure ? Where as in your picture
which you explained. You had just drilled from picture straight thru with 3/4 hole. It looks like you secured it from inside without the 3/4 hole. Is that correct ? This is a great mod you did. Please explain, why 11/2 in hole. most appreciated
If you go ahead with this mod, I would reconsider drilling a 3/4" diameter hole. Most of these style locksets easily fit in a 3/4" hole, but they also have one or two flat sides to keep them from rotating within the hole. I would drill a hole whose diameter matches the distance between the flats, then carefully file (or Dremel tool) the opening to match the lockset. And no, I have not performed this mod ... but have installed several similar locksets in other applications.
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