No start after attempting KOER read
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Freshman User
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From: Austin, TX
No start after attempting KOER read
1995 4.9 manual trans. The starter cranks it over but it won't start.
It was running pretty good but with a stumble at low RPMs and low load. I read the KOEO codes and found 111 111 which I believe ti be good. I then tried to initiate a KOER to read codes and it wouldn't start.
It still reads 111 111 KOEO. I disconnected the battery for about 10 minutes and tried again but still no start.
Ideas???
It was running pretty good but with a stumble at low RPMs and low load. I read the KOEO codes and found 111 111 which I believe ti be good. I then tried to initiate a KOER to read codes and it wouldn't start.
It still reads 111 111 KOEO. I disconnected the battery for about 10 minutes and tried again but still no start.
Ideas???
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Tallahassee
When you turn on the key, do you hear the fuel pump? If no, then try the other tank (If dual tank). Also, you should see the check engine light when key turned on. If you don't have fuel pump, but do have Check Eng, then look for and try reset of fuel pump inertia switch. (passenger foot well). If still no pump, there's a fuse and relay in the under hood box. Fuse 9 controls ECU and fuel pump relay, Relay 1 is ECU control. If all that's good, then ignition. Good luck.
Mike
Mike
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2017
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From: Austin, TX
When you turn on the key, do you hear the fuel pump? If no, then try the other tank (If dual tank). Also, you should see the check engine light when key turned on. If you don't have fuel pump, but do have Check Eng, then look for and try reset of fuel pump inertia switch. (passenger foot well). If still no pump, there's a fuse and relay in the under hood box.
Fuse 9 controls ECU and fuel pump relay, Relay 1 is ECU control. If all that's good, then ignition. Good luck.
Mike
Fuse 9 controls ECU and fuel pump relay, Relay 1 is ECU control. If all that's good, then ignition. Good luck.
Mike
I swapped Relay 1 with Relay 3 which made no difference. So I guess I'll start figuring out ignition...
Thanks for the reply!
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2017
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From: Austin, TX
When you turn on the key, do you hear the fuel pump? If no, then try the other tank (If dual tank). Also, you should see the check engine light when key turned on. If you don't have fuel pump, but do have Check Eng, then look for and try reset of fuel pump inertia switch. (passenger foot well). If still no pump, there's a fuse and relay in the under hood box. Fuse 9 controls ECU and fuel pump relay, Relay 1 is ECU control. If all that's good, then ignition. Good luck.
Mike
Mike
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From: Dallas-Ft Worth
Out of curiosity, did you instigate the KOER test before you actually had started the truck?
I'd try disconnecting the battery to reset the ECM (leave off for 5-10 mins) and then trying again.
I'm not sure this it the issue, but it's something I'd try.
I'd try disconnecting the battery to reset the ECM (leave off for 5-10 mins) and then trying again.
I'm not sure this it the issue, but it's something I'd try.
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From: Austin, TX
I did disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes, still no start. But thanks for the replay.
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From: Dallas-Ft Worth
Are you getting spark to the plugs?
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New User
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From: Tallahassee
OK, pump runs. I guess ECU is at least alive since check engine light comes on when key is turned on. Try cranking for 10-15 seconds and pull a plug. It should be wet. If not, then injectors are either not firing or there is no fuel pressure in the fuel rail. I guess I'm assuming that you verified spark. On second thought, if there is spark and fuel it should run anyway. If you suspect fuel rail, locate the schaeder valve on the rail. Cycle ignition key a few times to pump up the rail. You can then press in on the valve (Like a tire valve) and fuel should spray out. Be careful, wear glasses. Best way is to connect a fuel pressure gauge. I suppose it's possible the pressure regulator is broke causing all the fuel to return. But, bad news time, given that this suddenly happened when you were messing around with the ECU port, the probabilities point to a ECU problem. BTW, rough idle is probably just due to dirty throttle body. Easy to clean.
Mike
Mike
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2017
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From: Dallas-Ft Worth
OK, pump runs. I guess ECU is at least alive since check engine light comes on when key is turned on. Try cranking for 10-15 seconds and pull a plug. It should be wet. If not, then injectors are either not firing or there is no fuel pressure in the fuel rail. I guess I'm assuming that you verified spark. On second thought, if there is spark and fuel it should run anyway. If you suspect fuel rail, locate the schaeder valve on the rail. Cycle ignition key a few times to pump up the rail. You can then press in on the valve (Like a tire valve) and fuel should spray out. Be careful, wear glasses. Best way is to connect a fuel pressure gauge. I suppose it's possible the pressure regulator is broke causing all the fuel to return. But, bad news time, given that this suddenly happened when you were messing around with the ECU port, the probabilities point to a ECU problem. BTW, rough idle is probably just due to dirty throttle body. Easy to clean.
Mike
Mike
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From: Austin, TX
My thoughts also that I inadvertently caused the problem, I did go through the fuses checking for 12V on both sides of each fuse and swapped Relay 1 with Relay 3. Made no difference.
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From: Austin, TX
Checked it this morning by holding the coil wire close to a ground, no spark.
Is there a trouble shooting guide to follow? I know very little about the EECIV system.
Is there a trouble shooting guide to follow? I know very little about the EECIV system.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2017
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From: Dallas-Ft Worth
Btw, disconnect your ECM (driver's side firewall, 10mm bolt that backs it off the connector) and see if you have spark again.
My thoughts are that you fried the ICM. Just a guess.
I'm kind of inferring here, but I think you're getting the codes by using the paperclip jumper deal?
I suggest you get this:
It's got a great manual that explains how to take the readings.
Additionally, I suggest you get the extension cable - makes your life so much easier.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
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From: Austin, TX
Right here buddy: Part 1 -How to Troubleshoot a No Start (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L).
Btw, disconnect your ECM (driver's side firewall, 10mm bolt that backs it off the connector) and see if you have spark again.
My thoughts are that you fried the ICM. Just a guess.
I'm kind of inferring here, but I think you're getting the codes by using the paperclip jumper deal?
I suggest you get this:
https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-F.../dp/B000EW0KHW
It's got a great manual that explains how to take the readings.
Additionally, I suggest you get the extension cable - makes your life so much easier.
Btw, disconnect your ECM (driver's side firewall, 10mm bolt that backs it off the connector) and see if you have spark again.
My thoughts are that you fried the ICM. Just a guess.
I'm kind of inferring here, but I think you're getting the codes by using the paperclip jumper deal?
I suggest you get this:
https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-F.../dp/B000EW0KHW
It's got a great manual that explains how to take the readings.
Additionally, I suggest you get the extension cable - makes your life so much easier.
Yes I've been using a jumper to start the tests and watching the Engine Check light and counting its pulses.
I also think I must have fried something, too much of a coincidence otherwise.
I actually have a very old code reader but it only flashes and beeps, still have to count the flashes. Guess I'll buy the newer one.
Thanks for your input on this. I know my '66 Mustang inside and out, and use a bluetooth ODBII code reader on my newer vehicles. I just don't know much about EECIV... Time to learn!
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 146
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From: Dallas-Ft Worth
That looks like a good guide, I'll be using it.
Yes I've been using a jumper to start the tests and watching the Engine Check light and counting its pulses.
I also think I must have fried something, too much of a coincidence otherwise.
I actually have a very old code reader but it only flashes and beeps, still have to count the flashes. Guess I'll buy the newer one.
Thanks for your input on this. I know my '66 Mustang inside and out, and use a bluetooth ODBII code reader on my newer vehicles. I just don't know much about EECIV... Time to learn!
Yes I've been using a jumper to start the tests and watching the Engine Check light and counting its pulses.
I also think I must have fried something, too much of a coincidence otherwise.
I actually have a very old code reader but it only flashes and beeps, still have to count the flashes. Guess I'll buy the newer one.
Thanks for your input on this. I know my '66 Mustang inside and out, and use a bluetooth ODBII code reader on my newer vehicles. I just don't know much about EECIV... Time to learn!
My guess is the ICM is probably fried - but again, disconnect the ECM and see if the spark returns. If so, it's your ECM. If not, could be your ICM. Last thing to check, which ended up being my distributor itself. I loosened the screws on the cap and noticed that the dist wasn't rotating - the gear had come loose on the distributor shaft. That said, there is also a sensor in the distributor that tells the ignition system to spark, so that could have fried too.
Hopefully Subford will respond - he's the board Ford electrics guru and I'm certain he could add something more than I am able to!