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Hey Dan, post your results, and possibly some photos of where you tested and eventually tie into this wire for your relay. I will be wanting this feature is the future as well.
Pull the driver side battery. Reach in and disconnect the wiring loom where it plugs into the headlight. It has enough slack you can pull it up into the space where the battery was. Use a voltmeter or circuit tester and you can easily find the high beam wire. Tap it a few inches away from the connector and you're set. Bonus, its right next to the upfitter relay box, so you can add your extra relay right there, supply it from an upfitter output wire and have a spotlight that comes in and off with your high beam switch. Did this to mine, no issues.
Steve
Pull the driver side battery. Reach in and disconnect the wiring loom where it plugs into the headlight. It has enough slack you can pull it up into the space where the battery was. Use a voltmeter or circuit tester and you can easily find the high beam wire. Tap it a few inches away from the connector and you're set. Bonus, its right next to the upfitter relay box, so you can add your extra relay right there, supply it from an upfitter output wire and have a spotlight that comes in and off with your high beam switch. Did this to mine, no issues.
Steve
I did something similar in my truck for the LED driving light. But I used the relay to complete the ground circuit.
I tapped into the high beam wire on the driver headlight to use as a trigger for the relay. When the relay is triggered, the ground circuit is complete and the light comes on. But that's not all, I used a dpdt switch in the cab to allow me to turn the LED on independent of the high beams. I just use the switch to choose how I want to complete the ground circuit. Either through the relay (high beams) or manually. By supplying constant 12volts to the light (through a fuse), I don't have to worry about any issues with a 12volt lead coming through the firewall.
Pull the driver side battery. Reach in and disconnect the wiring loom where it plugs into the headlight. It has enough slack you can pull it up into the space where the battery was. Use a voltmeter or circuit tester and you can easily find the high beam wire. Tap it a few inches away from the connector and you're set. Bonus, its right next to the upfitter relay box, so you can add your extra relay right there, supply it from an upfitter output wire and have a spotlight that comes in and off with your high beam switch. Did this to mine, no issues.
Steve
Is there a wire around the steering column that sends a signal for the high beams (from the multi-function switch)?
I just added my lights and SPDT switch for my lightbar...only thing left is to tap into the high beams, but I don't want to do it under the hood. The elements mixed with an open wire (t-tap) will not be pleasant given the time to corrode...
Is there a wire around the steering column that sends a signal for the high beams (from the multi-function switch)?
I just added my lights and SPDT switch for my lightbar...only thing left is to tap into the high beams, but I don't want to do it under the hood. The elements mixed with an open wire (t-tap) will not be pleasant given the time to corrode...
Not an answer to your question, but I’ve had good luck with liquid black tape..doing two coats.
If you need it to come off, it peels off like rubber after it dries.
Looks like dimming controls is just a momentary switch for Dim or not Dim that grounds signal pins from Micro. Not trivial to use to control actual dim function with.