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I have some PIAA 1100x driving lights that I removed from a motorcycle. I had them tied to the high beams on the bike. If I find a way to mount them on my Super Duty, can I tie into the high beams without disturbing/damaging anything, and if so, where and what color is the wire? Thanks very much.
Are the piaas led lights? you cant tie extra halogens into the highbeams or it will trip the circuit. I have tied leds into the highbeams using a relay. I just used a test light to figure out which the highbeam wire was . I tie in with a splice right near where the wire connects to the headlight
Are the piaas led lights? you cant tie extra halogens into the highbeams or it will trip the circuit. I have tied leds into the highbeams using a relay. I just used a test light to figure out which the highbeam wire was . I tie in with a splice right near where the wire connects to the headlight
The lights are not L.E.D. I would use the wiring harness/relay that came with the lights, just use the high beam wire for the switch. Just wondering if that is ok with these new vehicles.
No problem driving the relay from the high beam wire. I use it for my LED bar.
I don't know the color off hand, but just remove the connector from the back of one of the lights and use a circuit tester to confirm it's the high beam.
So in this scenario the high beams would not be in use on a highway? I can see these being blinding to oncoming drivers well before high beams alone would.
Remote area or late night/no other vehicles within a mile use I can understand. Other than that they'd just limit my high beam use for the most part.
If you have upfitter switches, you could power your drivitng light relay from the upfitter, effectively isolating the PIAA's from your high beam circuit, as you desire.
Relay #1 is turned on by an out fitter switch. I'll use it's contacts to ground out relay #2.
Relay #2's coil will be powered by the high beam wire. It's contacts will make and break B+ to the lights.
This way my high beam switch controls the lights, only when the outfitter switch is on. I plan on tapping my reverse lights directly into the reverse wire on the truck, they pull no current and are useless for anything but reverse.
Relay #1 is turned on by an out fitter switch. I'll use it's contacts to ground out relay #2.
Relay #2's coil will be powered by the high beam wire. It's contacts will make and break B+ to the lights.
This way my high beam switch controls the lights, only when the outfitter switch is on. I plan on tapping my reverse lights directly into the reverse wire on the truck, they pull no current and are useless for anything but reverse.
Great idea! I like the master override feature. My light bar is just tied to #1 outfitter switch because it washes out the high beams. There isn't any need for the high beams with the light bar on. AND...yes I only use this light on rural ranch roads.
Pull the driver side battery when doing your install. Makes getting to the headlight wire bundle simple.
Agree with the two relay plan. Same way I’m running my 40” bar.
You can use a relay with 2 sets of contacts, most have 1 set of NC and NO contacts to do so. So relay #1 can also open the high beam wire at the same time as powering up relay #2. So that you're high beams go out when ever the upfitter switch for the aux lights is turned on.
It's just convenient to have an easier to reach switch. That's OEM. I've used a aux light stomp switch on the floor in the past, but I don't feel like drilling a hole in the floor of this truck.
I didn't use any upfitters. This PIAA 1100x kit was on a motorcycle and comes with a relay, switch and a wire to attach to the high beams if desired, which is what I did. I left the switch under the hood vs. running it into the cab. It will stay on unless the snow plow is on the truck.
Last edited by doucetrr; Feb 5, 2018 at 05:18 PM.
Reason: Spellulating
I don’t have upfitters, wired my light bar with a double throw, single pole switch. Center is off, right is on, left works off my high beams. I only used one relay for this, see my drawing. I marked a few things out of the drawing since I didn’t use them, first was a diode I was intending to use on the high beam lead because I was origionaly going to get a signal wire from the BCM and didn’t want any fly back voltage, I ended up just tying into the harness behind the drivers side headlamp instead. The other white spot was just a random number I had written later on while taking a note about something else.
I marked a few things out of the drawing since I didn’t use them, first was a diode I was intending to use on the high beam lead because I was origionaly going to get a signal wire from the BCM and didn’t want any fly back voltage, I ended up just tying into the harness behind the drivers side headlamp instead.
