I have no power to my mirrors...or they aren't working. The switch does nothing and they were both working when I bought the truck about a month ago. Also my driver rear vent window is not working and I don't hear any sound out of it. I bought a new motor for it, but with all this other stuff going on, I am waiting to change it. The left passenger side opened today but wouldn't close until I turned off the truck and started it again. The rear wiper stopped working again. I changed the motor last week and it worked fine until the other day. Now I don't even hear it trying to run. All my windows go up and down fine from the master switch housing in the driver door. I checked the fuses and they all look good.

Any ideas? Anyone in Central Florida good at this stuff willing to help me out for a couple cases of beer?

I don't want to buy new mirrors to come and find out they still don't have power. The vent windows aren't crazy important, but I have them and would like them to work. The rear wiper is fairly important to me I suppose. I don't use it often, but living in Florida, it would be nice to have.

 

It's a 1999 Expedition Eddie Bauer

 

Sometimes the rear vent windows in my Navigator get stuck and don't work. And I mean stuck on the gasket; the motors are fine but they're weak and won't even make noise if they have a little resistance. Playing with the switch gets them to eventually open.

But your problem with the mirrors calls for a check of the fuses and then while you have the test light out, check for power at the switch.

 

Be sure to check out the grounds behind the kick panels. Nearly every door/window-related item is grounded here. One ground on each side is level with the carpet, and will turn to rusty crap to give you headaches. Rust=resistance.

Clean them with sand paper till you see bare shiny metal, replace the ring terminal and give it some dielectric grease and a stainless steel bolt. Your truck will thank you.

 

Thanks for the advice on the ground. I am not big with electrical knowledge, but this might help. I probably won't get to check until the weekend at this point. I will let you know how it turns out. Can you tell me how I will know its the ground? Big black wire going to it?

 

Went and did a quick check of the grounds this morning....definitely not the problem. Both sides look brand new.

 

 

They look fine to me as well. Do you see the carpet? Look for another green bolt that's level to just below level with the carpet. These are the ones which were beyond saving on my truck (see my album for pics). I reason that it was due to being in Ohio, moisture in the carpet from snow just ran off and decimated the entire area. If it weren't my daily driver, I'd be tempted to sandblast the area, weld in new metal to fix the weak/split spots and then paint over it.
My solution was to re-route them to the upper bolts as seen in your pictures.
Something I forgot to mention is that despite the 8mm bolt head, these are M6x1.0 thread bolts. Everyone else through the entire world uses regular ones with a 10mm head
.
For the sake of reliability I replaced every ground ring terminalthroughout my truck. The only one I culdn't do at the time was inside the driver's rear wheel well somewhere

 

Thanks Travis. I will have to check it on Saturday. I didn't see any other green ones in there, but i wasn't really looking under the carpet either. I don't imagine it would look much different then these two though. There are no traces of any water ever being in the truck.

 

Looking through the owners manual I came across which fuses/relays control my issue areas. If you look at the list, I am pretty sure Fuse 14 is fine as everything it covers except the rear wipers are working. I am pretty sure Fuse 4 is also working as I am able to gain entry with the door keypad. Plus my interior lights work fine...which I think is the autolamp description. As I move to the power distribution box under the hood, I need to check Fuse 12 as my rear wiper does not work. Fuse 110 will need to be checked due to the flip windows. I don't have a moonroof or heated seats. 212 and 213 are half relays and I am not really sure what that means, but I will have to check those for the rear wiper. May just replace those if they aren't too expensive. Can someone tell me what I am looking for with those? CB601 looks like a 30A fuse. I am not sure if thats a Maxi fuse or something different. But I will have to check that one for the vent windows as well. I am curious on the power mirrors, the only fuse in the manual shows Fuse #4. There are two fuses that include the heated mirrors (17 10A Heated Mirrors, Heated Grid Switch Indicator) and (116 40A** Rear Window Defroster, Heated Mirrors) I don't have heated mirrors, but could these be part of the no power issue?



Is there anything else I should check? Also, does anyone have any part numbers for the relays I might need?



Interior fuse box

Fuse #4 15A - Autolamp Module, Remote Entry Module,
Mirrors, Air Suspension Switch

Fuse # 14 15A - Rear Wipers, Running Board Lamps,
Battery Saver Relay, Interior Lamp Relay,
Accessory Delay Relay (Power Windows)


Exterior Power box

12 10A* Rear Wipers

110 30A** Maxi fuse - Moonroof, Flip Windows and Heated Seats

212 — Rear Wiper Up Relay (Half Relay)
213 — Rear Wiper Down Relay (Half Relay)

CB601 30A Delayed Accessory (Power Windows, Flip
Windows, Moonroof)

 

CBxxx means Circuit Breaker, it automatically resets after it trips. As for the 20A Micro Relays, they are a regular Delphi part, common as dirt on Ford/GM vehicles. Just make sure the terminals are arrranged in the same "T" (3 across, 2 down) and you're golden. Quite a few Japanese cars like the late 90s Galant use the same style relays too.

Also, I highly doubt it is the retained accessory power or battery saver relays that are acting up. If they were, your power windows would be misbehaving as well.

For situations like this, I made a handy label for each fuse box. It has the slot #, rating and everything it is tied into. Here's the inside box label for 97-98 models, I suggest doing the same for yours.

 

Got a multimeter this morning. In the panel behind the fuse box, I tested #4 (result 12.16) and #14 (result 12.12). My battery showed 12.34. In the power distribution box i tested #12 (result 12.43). #110 Has continuity but I couldn't get a reading on it on the tester. As far as 212 and 213 go, I can hear them both clicking when I turn the rear wiper switch to the on position.

Also, I didn't see another ground point near the carpet inside either footwell.

 

And the label is an awesome idea.

 

Thanks! It seemed stupid that even my RX7 produced a decade earlier has everything labeled clear as day, the world's most popular generation of the most popular truck doesn't...

But yeah, an hour or so with KolourPaint, a 5x5 pixel font made years ago, printed at 96dpi then laminated does wonders for circuit tracing.

As for your previous post, perhaps Ford changed things a bit as they did with the underhood fuse box? Alloro would be the one to ask, or you can check at the library via Chilton TotalAccess too.

 

I ended up taking pictures from the owners manual. Now they are on my phone and I don't have to run back and forth to see where I need to be looking. Having a full blown computer in the garage would help too. But that won't happen anytime soon.