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Hello ford gearheads! I'm trying to piece together a build for my '75 460 and have hit a few roadblocks. Now, what I'm trying to do is mate d0ve heads with my block, pretty common practice I know but my knowledge of bbf motors is minimal at best. So here's what I know so far:
Correct valve length
Correct pushrod length
Correct valve springs to use
Proper cam lift (the cam kit I found is .514/.524 262/270)
Flat top pistons or dome? Probably dome but unsure.
I know this kind of build has been done many times before so any information would be much appreciated!
Here's a copy of a post I made a while back on my other account here, hope the information I dug up is useful to you...
C9VE-B
C is for the decade of the '60's.
9 is for the particular year of that decade, 1969.
V is designated for Lincoln cars 1961 and up.
E indicates the part was released for production by the Engine Division. A is for chassis, B is for body and E is for engine.
B is the part level suffix, and tells you the change level of the particular part. "A" signifies a part as it was originally designed, B indicates it was changed once, C twice, and so on.
You can use the same information on your cylinder heads.
Some particulars about your engine for you to know,..
The dimensions for your engine are generally grouped for the years 68-70. It is the same for me, I have a DOVE-A 429 engine with DOVE-C heads from a 1970 Thunderbird that I held onto since the late 80's. I'm glad I did. The designation of "Lincoln" can be misleading here. The same style engine block was utilized in both divisions, it's just that the Thunderbird was a 4V 429 while supposedly the Lincoln Continental was a 4V 460. I haven't seen one personally, but there are websites that tend to point out these mechnical differences, and I have no reason to dispute them.
Your deck height will be 10.300 inches and your combustion chamber volume should be 75.8 cc. Your intake and exhaust valve sizes should be 2.08/1.66 inches respectively also. You will have positive-stop rocker-arms studs and rail-type rocker arms unless someone changed them.
With the 10.300 inch deck height and the 75.8 cc combustion chamber size, your cylinder compression should be 11.0:1 for a 4V head. For a 2V head, it should be 10.5:1, but these generally came in school buses or station wagons of these years, and it is probably not what you have. You should be cautious on the octane of gas you put in your engine though, no matter what.
Also, if the engine was just transplanted straight from the vehicle into your truck (which was probably the case), you should run a lead substitute in your gas. The old engines did not come with hardened valves and valve seats and our current non-leaded gas does not help lubricate the old valve set-ups. That's something to convert your heads to if/when you pull the heads off the old beast sometime here.
On the block, pull the oil pan and look at the crankshaft webs that extend from the block sides to form the main bearings. They should be thick main webs. The block webbing will stay the same width as it extends from the sides of the block towards the crankshaft main bearing caps. If your block looks like that, then you have one of the good blocks that people search for in higher horsepower applications. You can buy a set of 4-bolt main bearings caps and just have the holes drilled and caps fitted onto the block whereas the thin web design, there is not enough block material to do that. Both are good blocks by the way, it's just that the thick web design is the highly sought after version. This is information to help you be more aware before you up and just sell the thing on anyone's money bids.
Crankshaft,...
If your engine is a 429, it will have a 4U or 4UA crankshaft. If it is a 460, it will have a 2Y, 2YA, 2YAB, 2YABC crankshaft in it, or it could be converted by someone to an external balance crankshaft from 1979 onwards, and it would have a 3Y type crankshaft in it, with the accompanying external balance parts on the crankshaft; flywheel, flying weight behind the front dampner, etc.
A 429 stroke crankshaft is 3.59 inches whilst a 460 is 3.85. Installing a 460 crankshaft in this engine is a pretty easy way to pick up some ponies, just be sure that you install a set of flattop 460 pistons to go with the 460 crankshaft since the wrist pins on the 460 are positioned differently to agree with the larger stoke of the 460 crankshaft.
In comparison, a Ford 400 small block has a 4.00 inch crankshaft, and they are nice little torque engines for our trucks when they are tuned correctly, so installing the 460 crankshaft is not a bad idea.
Pick up the book "How to rebuild your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460." The engineer sourced much of the information directly from Ford, although he made his mistakes also, you will not find the information on the DOVE-A engines in there. I'm not sure if he ever revised his book, but for the most part, you would not be doing yourself an injustice reading it.
This definitely helps! Thank you! The 460 is completely stock and original to my '75 F-350 Super Camper Special Ranger XLT. My overall goal for the truck is to have a mildly built cruiser. Nothing too crazy. If I can leave the lower end relatively stock for now (aside from new bearings and pistons) that'd be a big help. I want to throw in a larger cam, alum intake and better carb and of course heads. I'm just having a hard time matching the proper valve train parts for the best performance.
This definitely helps! Thank you! The 460 is completely stock and original to my '75 F-350 Super Camper Special Ranger XLT. My overall goal for the truck is to have a mildly built cruiser. Nothing too crazy. If I can leave the lower end relatively stock for now (aside from new bearings and pistons) that'd be a big help. I want to throw in a larger cam, alum intake and better carb and of course heads. I'm just having a hard time matching the proper valve train parts for the best performance.
The lower ends are normally good for around 5-600ish horsepower, so a good going over with whatever is needed to bring into specs (grind, new bearings, upgraded rod bolts, etc), is normally all that is needed with these engines. Going for high rpm and high horsepower instances will necessitate 4 bolt mains and a forged crank.
I'm repowering my stock 390 to a mild 460 myself. I ultimately bought one from Scotty the Mad Porter on the 460ford.com forums for about the same as it would have cost to do it myself, as a unique deal. I highly recommend adding that forum to your box of informative tools. Here's a build chart that should get you in the neighborhood for what you are trying to do.
This definitely helps! Thank you! The 460 is completely stock and original to my '75 F-350 Super Camper Special Ranger XLT. My overall goal for the truck is to have a mildly built cruiser. Nothing too crazy. If I can leave the lower end relatively stock for now (aside from new bearings and pistons) that'd be a big help. I want to throw in a larger cam, alum intake and better carb and of course heads. I'm just having a hard time matching the proper valve train parts for the best performance.
Use a 429 CJ cam, Edelbrock heads, and a stelth intake with a 750 cc carb,
HMMMM! Ok your stock pistons will yield the goals you are after. Adome will be WAY more compression than a camper special will need. The heads give the compression on this build, if you are after new pistons, and higher compression then keep your d3 castings and buy pistons but you are spending a lot of unnecessary dollars by buying DOVEs AND pistons, unless you already have one or the other. The bottom end is weak on the rods, your engine has the old style rods, get the cobra jet or new style truck rods, don't worry, don't listen to hype about how your old rods are good, get the good rods. Flat out. There isn't a machine shop i have ever walked into that doesn't have several of those broken rods "old" rods hanging on the wall of war, and if anyone asks why not usemy old style rods? show them the wall of war. It is amazing... they all break in the same place. your rods and 500hp will be a recipe for destruction, and thats it. shoot for 9.5-10:1 compression. Budget for some kind of improved exhaust. headers or something. cam it with a 260-265 a split pattern helps here (more exhaust duration) your crank is fine for anything pump gas i would hope,
You say you want a mild built cruiser, if that's the case you need to forget compression over the mid 9's and don't worry about the performance stuff.
any cam worth a crap will tell you what springs you need. there is no way to know what push rods you need until you're ready to put them in, check your geometry and preload if you don't have adjustable rockers and buy accordingly. I use Smith Bros and get custom length .
I would very highly recommend a roller cam . better yet a custom grind roller cam with specs built for your build and needs. or only a few dollars more you can get an expert to spec a cam and get it ground from just about any of the manufactures. I started doing this and I'll never go back to the cookie cuter cams again. I can give you the contact info on the guy I use if you're interested.
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