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hi i have a 2wd 95 f150 4.9l m4od tranny 150xxx on truck bout 22xxx on tranny
driving home yesterday my clutch pedal got stuck down. i cant pull it forward or backwards. looking under the truck i saw the line going to the tranny poped off? so i pushed it back in and tried playing with the clutch pedal.... i broke the master cylinder push rod. so i replaced that whole assembly and started to bleed it.. not having very much luck bleeding tried a couple things on the forum and a vaccum pump. got close one time but that damn line poped off again..
any one have any ideas why it would of poped off in first place. i was a a stop light when it happen
After reading this, id say your not ready to bleed the line yet...need to determine if the hydraulic line (end) is faulty or if the connection on the slave cylinder is faulty. Replace as needed and then worry about bleeding it.
It can be surprisingly time consuming, to get the air out of the clutch hydraulic line.
ok so looking in the inspection cover i see the pipe leading to slave cylinder wiggles around and brake fluid seeps out.. im guessing this is the problem haha well damn still not sure why the line poped off.
Is it possible the fluid you see, when you wiggle the slave connection, is just remnants of fluid, that may have sprayed when the line popped off, as it was likely under a fair bit of pressure?
I've not heard of this happening or had it happen to me yet, peculiar, but not long ago another person started a thread discussing this very issue.
Well I looked harder and got a second hand(been tryin this by myself in the mud) found I think the moister is just comin from when I crack the bleeder.. I put a new line on and it hasn't popped off yet.. but still can't get that dang peddal to return
Have you tried gravity bleeding it? Make sure the clutch pedal is in the up position. Remove the top of the clutch master cylinder and also the rubber boot under the cap. Fill the master cylinder completely full of brake fluid leaving the cap and rubber boot off. Loosen the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder and wait for the fluid to start running, it may take a while to start flowing. Once the fluid starts flowing, let it run for a while adding more fluid to the master cylinder as needed never letting it run dry. Let maybe 12 ounces run through, then tighten the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. Get the fluid level correct in the master cylinder, replace the rubber cup and the cap on the master cylinder and hopefully you have clutch pedal.
so i gravity bled and eventually ran out of brake fluid. but checked and now i have a half pedal. it will only return halfway.. i will get some more fluid and try tomorrow.
Several ways i have tried is to suck it out the bleeder with a hand pump break bleeder...
i had hooked up a tube to the bleeder and used my thumb as the release. id then pump 20 times them release the air. did this for a lonng time.
i then used the same tube and only released on the down stroke of the pedal. went through alot of fluid with this
then i stuck the tub in a jug of break fluid and pumped the pedal so it sucked fluid and pushed out air. i got close with this one then the old hydraulic line popped off again
After replaceing the hydraulic line i tried all again to no avail.. so far what got me the closest is gravity bleeding but i ran out of fluid. will try that again tomorow.. as of now i have a pedal that only travels half way up
also when i installled the line i filled it with fluid and depressed the end till i got a steady stream
thanks for all the tips guys!
p.s sorry for the grammer/spelling
Get a piece of clear tubing and one of those $.99 spring clamps at Home Depot.
Run the line from the bleeder up into the clutch master cylinder.
Use the spring clamp to hold it submerged in the reservoir.
Now you can pump and pump.
The bubbles will rise and the master will only suck fluid off the bottom.
Get a piece of clear tubing and one of those $.99 spring clamps at Home Depot.
Run the line from the bleeder up into the clutch master cylinder.
Use the spring clamp to hold it submerged in the reservoir.
Now you can pump and pump.
The bubbles will rise and the master will only suck fluid off the bottom.
If i misread what youve written then ignore me but the way to bleed it. Is to put a little fluid in a clear container, run a tube from the bleeder to the bottom of the container holding the fluid. Have a helper sit in the truck, tell them to push down oyn the pedal and hold it to the floor, you open the bleeder then close once theres visually no fluid or bubble flow, have helper release pedal, they may have to pull the pedal up a couple times at first but repeat that until theres no bubbles coming out of the tube.
Or on go, helper presses pedal while you simultaneously open bleeder, then once your helper tells you the pedal is to the floor, you close the bleeder, they release pedal and repeat. Like bleeding brakes.
or you can use the hand pump, open bleeder and keep drawing fluid/pumping, dont stop pumping, until its a solid flow of fluid with no bubbles then close bleeder. Its a modified version of the gravity method, just accelerating the process.
Usually things go just fine but theres been times ive had the helper push the pedal with above average speed and force while i crack the bleeder open, it worked.
If you have the clear hose going up to the MC you can just leave the bleeder open and let gravity do the work.
Pumping the pedal may help dislodge some bubbles, but watch for brake fluid squirting out of the MC.
Since you don't have a lid on it you can just use a piece of foil or food wrap and a rubber band so you don't damage any paint.
Have a feeling the bleeder may have been open too much, just enough to draw air when you covered the tube and released the pedal but not enough that fluid was seeping past the bleeder when the pedal was pressed/master engaged. My theory anyway.
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