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Hey Pezlo,
Welcome Aboard! It's good to see another '50 getting restored.
Post some pics when you get a chance. Abe is a good frequent contributor here - he's not a bad guy. Hang in there keep asking questions.
I do have both. I'm really not to familiar with the multimeter. I was trying to use it to understand the positive ground system on the battery yesterday but I think that only confused me more. So would I set it to volts, touch the black lead to panel mounting bracket and the red to either of the 2 metal strips linking the three gauges? And what type of reading should I get 6.0V?
Do you know what this switch in the picture I have circled does? There's also one to the right just outside of view that I can't tell what it does either.
Can you tell if this is this the correct Diagram for my starter?
It won't hurt a thing to run a ground wire for you gauge cluster. In fact, my starter button works much better after I replaced it with one with 2 terminals and ran one to the ground on voltage regulator. It's your truck. Have fun with it.
The instrument panel is grounded by metal to metal contact to the truck.
Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
For the BonusBuilt trucks, the ground for the instrument panels/gauges are pretty much the retaining clips holding them into the dash. I don't recall a dedicated wire for grounding. That's why there are often gauge problems after painting. You can certainly run a ground wire to something under the dash that is clean steel.
Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
The wire going to the ignition switch is NOT a ground, it's hot (power).The ground is the case of the instrument to the dash (or add a wire as I added above).
Pezlo, I see you are relatively new to FTE, so let me welcome you to our great Ford truck forum. Even though I have owned my 54 since 1977, I am not the most confident mechanically. But the fellas here, like Ross, have helped me tremendously.
Perhaps, it is after 33 years of teaching high school students I get frustrated when people don't read carefully and see what has already been said. But no excuses. I am sorry I yelled at you in all caps!
Good luck with your gauges. I hope you can solve your problem.
I do have both. I'm really not to familiar with the multimeter. I was trying to use it to understand the positive ground system on the battery yesterday but I think that only confused me more. So would I set it to volts, touch the black lead to panel mounting bracket and the red to either of the 2 metal strips linking the three gauges? And what type of reading should I get 6.0V?
Do you know what this switch in the picture?
Can you tell if this is this the correct Diagram for my starter?
Pezlo,
When you use your voltmeter:
-set it on the DC volts scale 12 volts or more if it has more than one DC setting,
-connect the red test lead (positive or +) to a nice clean piece of the dash, frame or the positive battery connection, (a good ground in other words)
-use the black test lead (negative or -) to see if you have any voltage on the metal strips on the back of the gauges when the ignition switch is "ON". This will tell you that voltage is getting to the gauges.
If you are getting 6 volts on the metal strips, move your red lead to a clean piece of the gauge cluster mount on the back and re-test to see if you have 6 volts to the metal strips. This will tell you that you have voltage and ground to the gauges.
If you are not getting any voltage to the metal strips, I would move my black test lead to the circuit breakers. You should have voltage there at all times, ignition switch ON or OFF.
I don't know if the diagram is correct for your truck or not.
I don't know what those switches are for.
Good luck testing...Terry
There is a switch on the underside of the dash to the left of the steering column to turn the instrument panel lights on and off (when the headlights are also on).
The diagram looks correct except the coil is wired backwards; (+) side of the coil goes to the distributor.
It would help a lot if you could put the year and model of your truck in your Signature, which you can do in UserCP (user control panel) at the top of the screen.
Pezlo,
When you use your voltmeter:
-set it on the DC volts scale 12 volts or more if it has more than one DC setting,
-connect the red test lead (positive or +) to a nice clean piece of the dash, frame or the positive battery connection, (a good ground in other words)
-use the black test lead (negative or -) to see if you have any voltage on the metal strips on the back of the gauges when the ignition switch is "ON". This will tell you that voltage is getting to the gauges.
If you are getting 6 volts on the metal strips, move your red lead to a clean piece of the gauge cluster mount on the back and re-test to see if you have 6 volts to the metal strips. This will tell you that you have voltage and ground to the gauges.
If you are not getting any voltage to the metal strips, I would move my black test lead to the circuit breakers. You should have voltage there at all times, ignition switch ON or OFF.
I don't know if the diagram is correct for your truck or not.
I don't know what those switches are for.
Good luck testing...Terry
Thanks Terry I'll give this a run through and see what I can find. 👍
There is a switch on the underside of the dash to the left of the steering column to turn the instrument panel lights on and off (when the headlights are also on).
The diagram looks correct except the coil is wired backwards; (+) side of the coil goes to the distributor.
It would help a lot if you could put the year and model of your truck in your Signature, which you can do in UserCP (user control panel) at the top of the screen.
Hey Ross,
that makes since why the switch wasn't doing anything. Good advice on the signature too. It won't see to let me change it on my phone. It seems to have a limited menu. I'll jump on the computer when I cane and update.
Thanks!
Pezlo, I see you are relatively new to FTE, so let me welcome you to our great Ford truck forum. Even though I have owned my 54 since 1977, I am not the most confident mechanically. But the fellas here, like Ross, have helped me tremendously.
Perhaps, it is after 33 years of teaching high school students I get frustrated when people don't read carefully and see what has already been said. But no excuses. I am sorry I yelled at you in all caps!
Good luck with your gauges. I hope you can solve your problem.
Thanks Terry I'll give this a run through and see what I can find. 👍
I am getting a reading of 5 Volts on the strips and the circuit breaker of the instrument panel. I was thinking about it last night and can I the same test the end of the wires where they connect to the sending units to see if the sending unit is getting power to send a signal or does it not work that way?
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