Hello everyone. I did a search but didn't find much. I am looking to refurbish my old cluster. Most of the gauges dont work accept for the fuel gauge and temp gauge even though they don't seem all to accurate. I would like to re do the cluster as I assume most problems are from bad connections and such. Is there a guide or something on common gauge problems and tech brakedown?

 

I don't know of a guide per se, but basic electrical troubleshooting applies. There are electrical diagrams in existence, but I don't have them handy - maybe someone else will chime in with a link.

If you apply voltage to the gauge and it moves, the gauge itself is good.

You can check continuity between various connections using a multimeter and see whether the wiring is good.

You can check the output of the sending units using a multimeter.

Etc.

If the fuel and temp gauges are working, you know the gauge is good. For fuel, often it's the sending unit that wears out, especially if it's jumpy. Check that the resistance changes smoothly as you move the sending unit by hand. If the temp and fuel gauges both move together (both high sometimes and both low others), it could be the instrument panel voltage regulator causing that.

If fuel and temp are working, it sounds like just oil and the ammeter aren't? The oil pressure sending unit is cheap and easy to change, so that's an easy spot to start. If the sending unit is good, then wiring is the next thing I'd check - especially since the under-hood wire is exposed to high temperatures, oil, etc.

For the ammeter, I never got the one in my '84 Mustang to work (though admittedly I didn't put much work into it); thankfully the one in my '74 F-100 does. They're very sensitive to the resistance everywhere in the circuit being correct. Wiring is often the culprit, but it can be hard to track down.

The speedometer isn't electrical; if it's not working, it's a bad cable or the speedometer gear in the tranny is stripped.

 

Ok that's kind of what I thought. I do alot of electrical Troubleshooting so I guess I'll have to track it down bit by bit. Can you buy individual gauges for the cluster or if one is bad is the whole thing bad?

 

Pull the plug from the back of the instrument panel.
Inspect it for corrosion or dirt.
Do that first as it's an easy fix and cured the problem I was having with my 76.

Bob

 

All of the gauges were available separately. The question now is are any still available.
I was lucky, I built an entirely new instrument cluster using all NOS gauges, including the speedometer.

 

I saw gauges the other night in LMC catalog. $70 a peice with a $150 speedo. Best to find those in a junk truck also.
If it has power to its suppose to, the oil pressure and fuel gauge basically work off of how much its grounded. What I'm saying is if either sending unit is fully grounded it will peg the gauge out. Easy way to check, pull the wire off the oil press sending unit and ground it out for a few seconds,the gauge will peg, you let go And go look in truck, and the gauge will be on the way down , same with gas gauge.

While in the cluster, if you pull the blue bulb covers and go buy regular (not LED) green replacement bulbs, it while brighten up the gauges ALOT.

Read up on how to undo the plastic speedo clip, and disconnect the battery. When the speedo cable touches the plastic printed circuit board(which is about $100) it tends to arc and fry it. . that sucked. Lucky I had another cluster with another circuit board

 

Why no LEDs? I put 194 replacement leds in my truck and it made a huge difference. Did the same to my tun indicators.

 

X2 on clean the all connections....main harness, each back light bulb, basic post connections on the back, printed circuit board for breaks. Ck all your sending units and their wiring, temp and oil is easy, fuel, do the ck below. If it is bad, you have to drop the tank to replace it.

You can pop out the rivet looking pins to get the front clear cover off. When you pop out the rivet looking pins make sure you are careful, they will break easy.

Fuel gauge ck: Disconnect the wire that goes to the fuel sending unit at the tank. Ground that wire to the frame, making sure the frame is clean. Turn the ignition to the "run" position and watch the fuel gauge. If the gauge swings all the way to full, either the sending unit itself is bad or it has a bad ground. If the gauge stays on empty then either the gauge is bad or there is a wiring problem.

To pop the plug off for the test, you can barely get up in there with your head and see the plug. While looking at it, VERY CAREFULLY use a screwdriver to pry it off. AND I MEAN VERY CAREFULLY. It is only pushed on like a 1/8". This is only if you can’t get it with your hands.

C8AZ-2B264-A .. Low Brake Fluid Warning Lamp Switch-Threads into the Brake Pressure Differential Valve / Available from Ford & auto parts stores. Applications: 1968/79 F100/350, Bronco and Econoline & Misc Passenger Cars. When this plastic switch goes bad, the lamp comes on and stays on, so it's possible someone disconnected it.

Amp meter is not known for being reliable. Advanced search for a way to upgrade it or go aftermarket 3 gauge set.

 

You can also use the gauge cluster out of 75-91 econoline vans.. I got mine out of a 1990 econoline.. Looks and works great.

 

The 194 Bulbs are some high wattage bulbs, and tend to burn the plastic around it. If I remember right, the 161 and one other are lower wattage bulbs and should last longer than the 194's.

Check the voltage regulator while your at it! should be, what 5 volts?

I replaced all my gauges out of 80's to 90's Ford gauges with the extra pin for ground. because I couldn't find a way to use the old fuel gauge with the new fuel tank (EFI'd my '78). 'twas a pain and had to dremel a lot of my fingers :P but came out looking alright.

Attachment 290613

 

Never used them.. I don't know if you'd have to change the flasher module to use them on turn signal indicators like you do if you changed the signal bulb.

You say that works?. .. Then cool. I'll go that route next time one burns out. The regular green bulb did brighten I up enough for me tho, but not overkill.


I keep hearing about interchangeable parts between a dent and these vans. But I can't ever say I've seen one at a junkyard to go pillage. Idk if I wasn't looking or what

 

Could be the plastic backer is brittle also, this is another common problem.

 

I used green leds for the turn indicators, it didn't effect the flashers they work the same as before. Lots brighter! you can see em good in the daylight. I could get pics of the LEDs I used.

 

Hey guys. I pulled the instrument cluster out and found that the voltage regulator isn't working properly and alot of wireing was done incorrectly causing some shorts and other issues. I was wondering how to change the voltage regulator. It looks to be riveted to the printed circuit.

 

I believe that snaps together like a 9 volt battery