So, I'm working on a 1985 Flareside bed which had completely rotted wood. So, i got a nice oak kit from MarK and the supports, etc. I also needed a new front panel and all the 6 support bars underneath replaced.

So, in a rookie move...when disassembling I didn't take note at all about how the support beams were installed or held.

I'm hoping to get some advice on the whole re-assembly process.

The support bars are weatherproofed and ready to go but I don't know what the correct order for re-assembly is. OR, if there is a preferred step by step way to go which makes it easier.

Do the support bars go on before the wood bed? If so, they sort of hover underneath and give the wood planks something to sit on when you start installing it?

Then...how is the bed actually held to the frame? With the large lag bolts that go through the wood and then through the support bars and THEN into the frame?

Any advice, good or bad is appreciated

Thanks,
JT

 

THE supports sit on the frame rails with wood blocks. unfortunately for you, you may not have noted which size block goes where.
Each cross rail needs a different height block because the frame rises and lowers.
Supports attach to bed walls Make sure the box is square. Wood on top of cross rails, and the big bolts hold bed-to-frame.

 

Sorry that you did not note the order of the rails. You will need to set the front section in place first and the rear sill. Have the bed wall attached to this crossmember before install or you will be sorry. Once you figure all of the rail placements with the correct blocks, set the boards on them and use the large bolts to align the holes and put nuts on by hand. You will then add the strips in between the boards and then puts nut on by hand again. This is the time to square the bed and check for clearance to the cab. If good, tighten all of that down. Oh ya, if I remember correctly, the holes are not drilled in the wood. If not, then square it up prior to putting the bolts in and that is with the slats in place. I found it easier to use a long drill bit from underneath to drill the holes. Now with the bed tight to the frame, not overtight. Add the side panels. Put a few bolts in place to the front to hold it, then there should be one bolt to the rear sill. Check alignment along wood and drill holes for carriage bolts. Put a few in down the line and hand tighten. Do the wsame for the other side. Now it is time to recheck square and the position of bed with cab. The rest should be self explanatory. Also, the sills should be labeled. I think the block for the rail just ahead of the rear sill did not have any cuts in it. That might help to get started and then determine the other two with a level.

 

I should have mentioned this (or posted this picture) before...

This is the present state, except it's currently set back on the frame resting until further notice.

So, I cannot bolt the cross-rails to the bed directly, they bolt directly to the frame? Then, the empty bed is put up on top of them, the wood and everything else is installed on top of that?
Then it's all bolted to the frame with the big lag bolts?

 

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I have seen one of the venders had a booklet on how it gets put together.
If it was not Mark maybe Denis Carpenter? I will try and see if I can find who it was.
Dave ----




edit: http://www.mar-k.com/index.php?p=tips-and-tricks
http://www.mar-k.com/_assets/images/...nformation.pdf

 

Following, good luck TK!

 

Sometimes a pic or two can help?

 

That is VERY helpful!
So...the horizontal support bars are bolted to the wood...then the wood is essentially bolted with long lag bolts to the frame?

 

I have to throw in the disclaimer that the red flareside bed is not mine, and the flareside bed that I bought at the junkyard had rotten plywood flooring (not original). So my apologies if my information is not exactly right...

My understanding of the design is that the cross members sit on the frame (with appropriate blocks). The wood slats sit on top of the cross members and are held captive by the metal straps between each board. The fasteners for the straps go in between the boards, not through them. This should allow the boards to "float" so that they do not crack as they shrink and swell with moisture content or flexing of the truck frame. The large conical washers and Phillips head bolts that hold the bed to the frame ~do go through the center of the boards, through the cross member, the block, and finally the frame. The outside board edges are held captive by the lip on the bedsides. i believe you said in your original post that the wood kit you ordered was oak. Keep in mind that oak is an extremely acidic wood, and that acid will eat away at steel fasteners. It would be a good idea to consider stainless replacements, or at least treat the ones you have with quality paint before installing them.

Edit: the bolts that go through the lip of the bedsides are also "though" fasteners that go through the wood. They simply have a large flat washer and a nut on the underside.

 

Use OEM material, Local lumber yard and get "marine grade" plywood, (5/8" thickness I think)
Buy 2 sheets and the bed floor is constructed in three sections, Center head to tail and 2 sides head to tail.

 

Can you post a picture of the 67 flareside box?

 

Bill aka numbersdummy has not been on in a wile so don't hold your breath.
I would think the early flare sides would be about the same.
What is it you need to know and have you asked on the year area you are after?
Dave ----