You shouldn't have to do all that though, I'd do as Tom suggested and have them or a shop you trust check for parasitic draw....I have a 2016 also, never have had an issue and i have the radio running a lot with the engine shut off, I'm constantly forgetting to unplug a charger of some sort.

(Now watch my battery be dead in the morning!)

 

I agree. But I do not have a parasitic draw. With the engine off, doors shut and locked, it starts fine in the mornings. If I have to jump it again, I'll start calling for a tow and maybe get the battery replaced by Ford.

Yesterday and this morning the volts read 13.9 to 14.0. I'll drive it and do a test on Sunday when I clean it up.

I'm still thinking I'll get another battery. I don't feel comfortable with the battery lasting through the heat of an Arizona summer.

RigTrash, did your truck start this morning?

 

Is that with the engine off or on? If off, how long since it was turned off?

 

Engine on, overnight, maybe 12th or 13 hours.

 

Yes sir, I even washed / waxed it, vehicle went into "battery save" mode 3 times, still starting as of now!
I did have a 2013 F150 XL with the 5.0L, started having issues at about 18K miles, if I was offshore for an extended period of time, it would need to be jumped, ended up getting a new battery and had no further issues. I turned it in last March with just under 40K (company vehicle) with no battery issues whatsoever after replacing the OE battery.....battery may have been made on a Monday or a Friday, who knows!

Anyway, good luck and let us know if you find an underlying issue

 

Just out of curiosity, I went out and did a quick check on my battery this morning.

The first measurement I took was with the engine off, truck had been sitting overnight at least 12 hours. Voltage is 12.5 volts.

Then started the truck up. Engine has been running less than a minute, headlights and fog lamps on. Voltage is 14.49 volts.

I turned off the headlights, and took a second measurement. Voltage is 14.52 volts.

 

Thanks for checking. I checked mine with the scanguage and also had 12.5, but at start up I was at 13.5. About 20 miles into the trip I was at 14.1. I'll check it with a multmeter Sunday morning.

 

I had to boost my truck this morning. I've had it for about a month and the electronics got progressively worse. I'm waiting for the dealer to test my battery. He tested it with a hand held tester and it said my battery was bad but has to hook it to the big tester to replace it under warranty.

 

You have a 610 amp? I think that's the problem. Just not enough reserve power for all of the electronics on these things.

Mines been ok since I took a 400 mile round trip. I'm waiting for the short trips to drain the battery again.

 

I don't know what battery I have. It's the original equipment that came in the truck. I'm still waiting for the answer to the problems. One 150 mile round trip is the only highway miles I've driven.

 

Three hours later I left with a new battery. My uneducated guess is that my truck was built a few months ago and sat on the dealer lot all winter and only had I think it was 63 miles on it. I don't think a battery would have a chance of surviving all winter without being kept charged. Anyway, everything is working now. The auto stop/start was what was telling me that the battery wasn't getting charged.

 

Had to jump it again this morning after playing the stereo for one cycle. I put the charger on it and will see how it does after a good charge.

I did do some research and realized my truck was built in Nov 15. It set on the lot until I bought it in Oct 16. That's the longest a vehicle has set at the dealer that I have ever purchased.

 

I waited till I had to jump mine and it was a dead battery. I suspect also that the truck sat all winter without getting much charge. Anyway, the dealer tested it and installed a new battery.

 

My vote is the battery that went completely dead while on the lot.
Not to insult anyone, but a short lesson.
Almost all car batteries are comprised of Six 2 Volt cells on a common buss. The voltages applied to the car battery via the alternator or charger are for the entire buss.
In other words, a 12v battery that is at a 13.8v charge cycle is under optimal (and theoretical) conditions has 2.3 volt charge applied to all of the cells

If you have a dead or weak set of cells the voltage applied to the system gets absorbed by the other "good" cells. So a dead cell would cause the other cells to be charged at roughly 2.76 volts. That voltage is enough to destroy a good cell in short order.

Testing with a multimeter only gives you buss output voltage.


Since you have no way of isolating the cells with a meter, a total battery voltage can only give a sort of insight as to what might be happening.

A strong cell compensating for a weak or dead cell will easily mask a problem via a voltage check.

However, its capacity will be drastically reduced.

More over, the cells that a now being overcharged to compensate for the weak cells will rapidly deteriorate with each charging cycle.

So again, the symptoms as described above easily fit with why I think that battery went dead at one point before you even bought it. If you EVER see a Dealer jumping a car to get it started (not that you did in this instance) demand a new battery.


I'm glad to see they made it right.

 

I didn't see what engine you have but if you have the auto stop/start it comes with an AGM deep cycle battery.