Tools And Time? Swapping Engines First time.
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Tools And Time? Swapping Engines First time.
I have a F150 78 with a 300 block. It's fried I am tired of trying to repair. I am going to buy a 300 block with the same headers and intake ready to drop in.
I know I need a hoist to get the engine out. How long is a straight swap gonna take me. I need to minimize my time with a crane. I plan to leave the transmission and just unholy and go. I need to be able to accomplish this in a day. What other odd ball tools will I need. I have impacts and pb blaster in bulk. The new engine was a fresh rebuild and still has a warranty from the builder who I am buying from.
I plan to unplug all wiring the night before and get it so I can just hook the chain on the motor mounts and pull.
does my tranny need support on stands while I swap?
is anything at risk of breaking?
will a 1 ton hoist get a 300 out over the front clip without pulling it all off?
any recommendations to do this is needed and appreciated.
I know I need a hoist to get the engine out. How long is a straight swap gonna take me. I need to minimize my time with a crane. I plan to leave the transmission and just unholy and go. I need to be able to accomplish this in a day. What other odd ball tools will I need. I have impacts and pb blaster in bulk. The new engine was a fresh rebuild and still has a warranty from the builder who I am buying from.
I plan to unplug all wiring the night before and get it so I can just hook the chain on the motor mounts and pull.
does my tranny need support on stands while I swap?
is anything at risk of breaking?
will a 1 ton hoist get a 300 out over the front clip without pulling it all off?
any recommendations to do this is needed and appreciated.
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 504
Likes: 4
From: Malheur County
I don't know the specific answers to some of these questions but feel qualified to weigh in on a couple of them at least.
Anything made of plastic. Especially when you're pulling an entire engine and disconnecting wiring. Older it gets and heat cycled enough it tends to get brittle.
I don't know the specific answer, but you could in a pinch take the front tires off and lower the front of the truck to gain clearance if you had to, although with regard to supporting the transmission I'm not sure how easy this would be to accomplish. Everything I've read about removing the front clip is that it's fairly straight forward and would make getting around the engine a lot easier, might be worth investing the time to do. Somebody else will know better than me.
I'm pretty slow when it comes to turning wrenches. I try to be methodical relative to my lack of experience and that really adds a significant amount of time. Also unanticipated trips to the parts house. Unless this is something you are well experienced in, it will take longer than you think and cost more than you planned. My collection of tools has really filled out, though.
Anything made of plastic. Especially when you're pulling an entire engine and disconnecting wiring. Older it gets and heat cycled enough it tends to get brittle.
I'm pretty slow when it comes to turning wrenches. I try to be methodical relative to my lack of experience and that really adds a significant amount of time. Also unanticipated trips to the parts house. Unless this is something you are well experienced in, it will take longer than you think and cost more than you planned. My collection of tools has really filled out, though.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 10
A good service manual, plastic bags and a sharpie would be top of my list. Read up on the steps, take lots of engine bay pics, especially linkages, brackets, wiring and hoses and use the bags and sharpie to label parts.
Somebody experienced in pulling Dent engines could have it out in a day. No problem. Without that experience, suggest you allow considerably more time. I would for myself.
Somebody experienced in pulling Dent engines could have it out in a day. No problem. Without that experience, suggest you allow considerably more time. I would for myself.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,263
Likes: 5,822
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
IMO its a day job (4 to 8 hrs) pulling and replacing with a few extra hands in the mix. Use a floor jack and a stack of wood or a 4x4 about 2" long to support the trans.
Here is some walk thru, I am all about removing the front clip...but that is because I hate working laying over a fender or radiator...6cyl will make for more reach room for you..
Here is some advice, since you want to leave the front clip on, skip that part and glean out what you need. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14696880
Do not open any systems like the p/s and one less thing to bleed. Also trans help here. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14696848
Remove the hood after you sharpie mark the hinge placement, leave the hinges on the inner fenderwells.
Here is some walk thru, I am all about removing the front clip...but that is because I hate working laying over a fender or radiator...6cyl will make for more reach room for you..
Here is some advice, since you want to leave the front clip on, skip that part and glean out what you need. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14696880
Do not open any systems like the p/s and one less thing to bleed. Also trans help here. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14696848
Remove the hood after you sharpie mark the hinge placement, leave the hinges on the inner fenderwells.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 135
Likes: 1
From: Robertsdale, AL
Since it is 300 6. You will have ample room to do remove all the parts. I could probably have the engine out in 1.5 hours swap all accessories 1 hour, then ~2 hours to reinstall. Now I have done a few swaps in my day. If you have never removed one, I would give yourself 8-12 hours, give your self time to walk away when something gets frustrating. I would go ahead and spray exhaust bolts with PB blaster. Also take the truck and power wash bell housing, motor mounts, oil pan, timing cover etc.
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 369
Likes: 6
From: Fort Wood, MO
X2 on cleaning everything. Since your pulling it anyways cake that thing top and bottom with oven cleaner and spray away. It just makes life easer not cutting through years of grease to get what you need to get.
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Great tips for everything. My truck is NO AC so thats 1 less accessory.
I converted to HEI. So 1 less thing.
Power Steering is empty as my bracket is bent and eats belt.
The New motor has EVERYTHING. Fuel Pump and a few extras. As well as carb, intake and exhuast manifold. I have the Offenhauser stuff on my 300 and the new 300 has the same. The amount of items I have to transplant is almost nothing. Unless I am forgetting something.
The new engine was magnafluxed and is sparkling clean and debating throwing paint on it to really make it look good. The motor only has 1900 miles since rebuild.
Can I use Jackstands as a placeholder for the tranny?
I plan to drain the Radiator, remove fuel lines, pull all wires, and unmount the PS the day before I pull it. There isn't that much as far as I can tell. I don't need ti running same day. I just need the motors moved and with the new one having everything short of the PS setup I don't forsee there being much. I plan to hit the bell housing bolts and exhaust with PB every day for a week.
Where can I get a new PS plate for my engine? Mine is off and eats belts.
I converted to HEI. So 1 less thing.
Power Steering is empty as my bracket is bent and eats belt.
The New motor has EVERYTHING. Fuel Pump and a few extras. As well as carb, intake and exhuast manifold. I have the Offenhauser stuff on my 300 and the new 300 has the same. The amount of items I have to transplant is almost nothing. Unless I am forgetting something.
The new engine was magnafluxed and is sparkling clean and debating throwing paint on it to really make it look good. The motor only has 1900 miles since rebuild.
Can I use Jackstands as a placeholder for the tranny?
I plan to drain the Radiator, remove fuel lines, pull all wires, and unmount the PS the day before I pull it. There isn't that much as far as I can tell. I don't need ti running same day. I just need the motors moved and with the new one having everything short of the PS setup I don't forsee there being much. I plan to hit the bell housing bolts and exhaust with PB every day for a week.
Where can I get a new PS plate for my engine? Mine is off and eats belts.
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Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,263
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
No a/c way easier. Spray you exhaust manifold bolts or be ready with the sawzall. Jack stand should work,you might just need a way to adjust the height (a little) come reinstall time.
Jy for the p/s bracket?
Jy for the p/s bracket?
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I am having trouble finding the replacemtent identical to mine. I combed the entire JY in town which actually has a nice selection of 300's from the era but all the brackets are gone. The bracket is off by a very tiny hair. Its not damaged just not right.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,354
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From: Great American SouthWest
You didn't say, or I missed it if you did, if the trans is auto or standard. In my opinion, auto is easier. Four nuts on the torque converter. You're not supposed to reuse them, so you might want to have new ones on hand. An auto will also have cooling lines to the tranny
Get a metal coat hanger to hang the alternator. Or remove it.
If you don't remove the front clip, at least remove the radiator. Gives you more working room and you're less likely to damage it.
You'll need a big socket to turn the snout bolt to remove and reinstall the torque converter nuts. I think it's 15/16"
Make sure you have good bite on the bolts holding the lift chain. You might get away without removing the hood, but it's easier with the hood off.
You can do this by yourself, but it's a lot easier with a couple other guys to help. But no adult beverages until done!!!
Get a metal coat hanger to hang the alternator. Or remove it.
If you don't remove the front clip, at least remove the radiator. Gives you more working room and you're less likely to damage it.
You'll need a big socket to turn the snout bolt to remove and reinstall the torque converter nuts. I think it's 15/16"
Make sure you have good bite on the bolts holding the lift chain. You might get away without removing the hood, but it's easier with the hood off.
You can do this by yourself, but it's a lot easier with a couple other guys to help. But no adult beverages until done!!!
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Thanks rougeriver.
F250 yeah. I have combed every 300 and they are all stripped. there are a few of the other style... but i want to stay close to true.
It is a Manual. Not auto and I planned on pulling hood and rad. I did some work behing the timing cover so it takes me less than 20 to pull the radiator. Easy peazy.
I need to adjust the linkages on my clutch when I pull this so that will be nice to do. I forgot the alternator but I have a 1 wire conversion sitting waiting to go in. So once again something I can mount before even ripping into the truck.
F250 yeah. I have combed every 300 and they are all stripped. there are a few of the other style... but i want to stay close to true.
It is a Manual. Not auto and I planned on pulling hood and rad. I did some work behing the timing cover so it takes me less than 20 to pull the radiator. Easy peazy.
I need to adjust the linkages on my clutch when I pull this so that will be nice to do. I forgot the alternator but I have a 1 wire conversion sitting waiting to go in. So once again something I can mount before even ripping into the truck.
