This is the bracket I have. I doubt it's what you need, it looks to me like an alternator bracket. It came off a '76 300. I couldn't remember what it was when I mentioned it the other day. Oh well, it's yours if you want it.




David

 

I 2nd the ratchet strap motion, works like a champ. Also, I think you should reconsider not taking the front clip off. I have pulled ALOT of engines in these old dents and only recently started doing it by pulling the front clip. You can have it ready to pull of in 30 minutes. its only like 14 bolts and they are ALL easy to get to. And it keeps you from having to worry about scratching, bending, etc... plus it makes this stupid easy to get too. I am a firm believer in it and will never pull an engine through the hood again!

 

Whoops I forgot about the 4 bolts for the bumper...

 

Take the front clip off!!! I have pulled 100s of engines from dents. Wouldn't think about doing it any other way. Out and in in 3 hrs flat. I also like to take the tranny with the engine also.

 

In case you missed the link earlier.

This worked on my none a/c 79 4x4 F250 w/standard transmission, more than once, and I used the same technique on a 79 Bronco with a/c and a automatic transmission.
Painters tape on the door front edge when opened, and a little more plus the back edge of the fenders to prevent scratches. Disconnect battery and remove. Then drain radiator.
Tag and bag each piece of hdwr, or stick it in a large piece of card board and mark it accordingly.
1. Make sure you park the truck where you can get both doors open. Or BEFORE you put it inside a narrow shop....Open each door and remove the one bolt on each side that is right between the hinges. Now put it in the narrow shop...lol.
2. Take a scribe or sharpie and trace a mark the hood hinge positions on the underside of the hood. This will be helpful come reinstallation/realignment time. Disconnect the hood ground on the passenger side and the hood light if uyou have one. Hood removal is really a 2 person job. If you go it alone, be careful, great way to scratch the hood/cowl. If the hood is all the way open, it is front heavy when you remove the bolts. I can’t really explain a 1 man job here, but it looks like a monkey f..in a football. Just get a helping hand for this. Compress the hinges left on the fenders) and just pop off the spring. Make sure you make note of the stiffener brackets (under the hinges), if you have them. Ok hoods off.
3. At the very bottom edge/back side of each fender, is one bolt.
4. Make sure if you have the front fender/front edge to frame, small support bars (some do, some don't) remove them from the frame. I would remove them from the fender side also, just to prevent anything from getting bent.
5. Masking tape tag each electrical connection point on each side of the connection and mark them like (1-1), (2-2) or A-A, B-B and so on. There are 3? Main electrical connections on the dvrs side back by the fire wall, behind the hood hinge. Tape, tag, and disconnect. Digital pics makes it nice too.
6. There is an electrical harness that runs across the back side and above the fire wall on the passenger side and goes to the starter solenoid. Disconnect from solenoid (make sure you know make note, where each elbow plug goes on the starter solenoid.) There is a plug for voltage regulator, and then lay wiring on engine. Ground wire from solenoid to eng block (remove from solenoid side).
7. Look over the area behind the headlights/behind the core support area (each side for 1 small square plug) and the windshield washer tank for a elec plug in the front end of the tank. And the rubber feed line that goes to the T up by the cowl.
8. Top and bottom radiator hoses from back side of radiator. Fold rubber hoses back out of the way and zip tie, so they do not flip back open. Is it a automatic transmission? Disconnect transmission lines from radiator and cap lines.
9. There are these 1” or 2” wide rubber straps (one on each side) on the back side of the metal inner fenderwells that attach to the firewall, disconnect from firewall.
10. Scribe mark where the bracket that support the inner fenderwells (where it attaches to the fire wall). Remove 3 bolts per side.
11. Now if you are lucky here, down on EACH side of the radiator there is one main mount bolt for the radiator core support. Lucky meaning, it will come out and is not all rusty and stuck. But if it is rusty, stuck and or the head is stripped. Time for the sawzall. Red Diablo blades here and carefully cut between the top of the frame rail and the bottom of the core support. These bushings and bolt parts are available. A torch is not a good idea here the rubber bushings will smoke/burn like crazy.
12. Have an old tire or some other similar support to set the front clip down on once removed. Put it under the middle of the core support/radiator. So you do not bend the front edge of your fenders.
13. I use 2 other FTE buddies + myself and we just pull the complete front clip off. Make sure the plastic inner fenderwell liners do not get hung up on the shock brackets. As far as by yourself, attach the cherry picker to the middle of the core support, it can be done with a piece of cable, some folks just pull the radiator (not necessary) and use chain. Make sure you triple ck all electrical connections and the core support bushings are free. Lift it up just a bit and ck the fenders, and then lift it up again, just a little. You are wanting to pull it more forward than up, so that the back edge of the fenders contact the back side of the tires. Like I said, it’s doable, but a PITA as far as a one man show. 2 guys can pull it way easier.
I am NOT positive on all the electrical connections, but that is the big stuff. I am sure some FTE members are reading this and will double ck me and chime in with what ever I missed. Or maybe they have a better hood trick?

 

My hood trick: Milk carrier on top of the radiator, gives you just enough room to get to the bolts to remove the hood from the hinges. On some hinges you have to fight the spring tension with the last bolt.

 

Why not leave the hood on and pull it with the clip as one, eat some Wheaties and grunt a little?

 

Brain fart

 

Rails and inner fenders? Don't you pull those with the front clip? I admit, I have always taken the hood off separate from the front clip, but a guys should be able to take the hood, front clip, rails and inner fenders in one full swoop? See the pic for how I pulled my front clip

 

I just pulled my front clip last night by myself, first one ever.
I'd say for learning where things were and gathering the proper tools, I took about an hour.

I only had 2 bolts holding on my front bumper, and the radiator support bolts snapped when I cranked on them. And I already had the radiator drained/removed.




So much easier to get to things now, those bellhousing bolts would have been a massive pain leaning over the fender or getting crap in my eyes from the bottom.

 

yeah some of those front support mounts can be pretty corroded. I've seen some rusted clean thru...

 

Hood trick #1... and the best "creeper" in the world if you are under the hood ALOT.

I pulled ol reds hood BY MY SELF and put in on top of the cab. I also leave the radiator in and just pull the hood and leave the rest of the front clip all together.

Best thing to have....is a helping hand with the hood.

 

I need to get one of those top side creepers.....

 

Here is mine... way cheaper and versatile.

I have also built a 4 step work bench out of old oak pallets. FREE pallets ='s awesome.

 

Here is my $.02. Tools will be SAE. SHallow sockets will work for most everything. A crap load of extensions and at least one universal joint. Breaker bar with cheater. I happen to have several different lengths of cheaters. One of the most used sets of tools I use is flex head gear wrenches. Worth the money. Ziplocks and sharpy are a must, as are a bazillion pictures from every angle you can come up with.. If you get everything removed the night before, you could rent the cherry picker, remove the front clip, pull old motor and have new motor in in just a couple of hours. You will need a jack on the tranny for re- install. That took longer to get lined up than anything else.


Good luck.