Iam wondering if one of these after market sumps would work on our 6.9/7.3 IDI`s. Maybe this would end the running out of fuel at 1/4 tank with the Shower head falling off.
There are a number of different designs by various companies out there.
Seems like they are used on the newer Ford Diesels, 6.0, 6.7 etc... Duramax and Cummings.


Searching around on Google, I can`t find any one using these on the 6.9/7.3 IDI`s.


Copied the following picture off the internet.








Charlie

 

Maybe, but why not just pull the fuel pick up and add a few-inch section of fuel hose. Seems like a simpler replacement strategy than using a hole saw to install a potentially leaky tank sump.

 

One of the benefits of doing this is that you can clean it out from the bottom, instead of having to drop the (potentially full) tank of fuel or pull the bed.

So, if the seal /does/ give out, you can always just put a bucket under it, drain the tank, pull it out and reseal easily.

(Note: I have not done this mod myself, yet. I have drilled a hole in the bottom of one tank and mounted a drain plug block, though. Worked for a few years until the metal tank started rusting out and the JB weld started detatching itself and weeping. Cleaned everything real good and re-glued it; so far no issues.

 

Rust is main reason why I don't fiddle with my steel tanks. Especially on the bottoms.

 

My guess is that if I'd prepared it correctly(aka cleaned everything with a wire wheel, acetone) and then installed it it would have worked perfectly for a long long time.
As it was, I did this when I was a lot younger, didn't have the tools, knowledge or time to do it right. So I slapped it together and it ended up working.

Also, would have probably been a good idea to paint the whole thing when I was finished.
I am in an area they use calcium-chloride on the roads, so I do get *some* rusting from that.

 

Another benefit to a sumped tank, particularly if it had some kind of baffle, would be that it would do away with sucking air as the fuel sloshes back and forth when the tank is getting down. My rear tank is especially bad for this, despite having a new sender that is installed correctly. If I am offroad or even on a road with corners and hills I will start sucking air at less than a 1/4 tank. The only time I've been able to run it right down was on a long highway drive in Central Alberta, and that last quarter of a tank was good for well over 100km!


When I get to the point of doing fuel tanks on my 93 project I am either going to build my own tanks or modify factory tanks with some kind of sump and baffles along with using one of those solid state fuel level senders. Lot's of room for improvement in the fuel tank department on these trucks!

 

I've installed a few of these kits with fass/air dog pumps of a lot of newer trucks but never an idi.
A lot easier than deleting the fuel pump in the unit on the newer trucks

I am definitely a fan of the drain idea. I've been tempted to weld a fitting to the bottom of my tanks.

Funny story my trucks a 4x4 so it has front and rear skid plates for the fuel tank and well I developed a drip on the front tank. A rock managed to get in there and rub a pin hole. The tank was virtually rust free inside and out so I just wire wheeled it, sanded with 40 grit sand paper to give the epoxy something to stick to, I then ran a metal roofing screw into the hole. It was one of the self tappers with washer built into it. there made for putting tin on metal buildings, that sealed it just fine but I went ahead and ran jb weld over it and the surrounding area. I imagine it'll hold as long as the tank does. Been on there over a year

 

i would never do something like that to a diesel, it will guarantee that if you get a little water in the fuel, it will be the first thing sucked into your engine.
i like having the pickup off the bottom of the tank a bit so any contamination stays down there and not in my engine.

 

If you have good filtration, it will catch the water and any other debris.
Nothing but clean fuel should ever get to the IP or Injectors.


I have several Mercedes 240D 300D and the fuel is pulled from the bottom of the tank.
There is a screen that screws into the bottom of the tank, then the fuel line to the pre filter, lift pump, screw on filter etc...
never had any problems. After 100 to 200K they should be taken out and cleaned.
My 80 after 300K miles wasn`t all that bad, don`t know what the prior owner did. My bro in laws 82 with 130K was 3/4 gunked up,
but he had an algee problem.


On my 240 I have a Racor 200FG that catches everything.
I also have one on my 82 Datsun Diesel KC PU, been on there for over 400K miles.





One of these or the larger 500FG should be on these trucks before the Spin on Filter.


MB Screen.






I have never had a problem with air getting into the fuel system on the MB`s.
Wonder why the Fords or some as mentioned have such a problem when the fuel gets down to a 1/4 tank or so?

Charlie

 

That's a good point too.

Also, the last time I pulled my tank, i was surprised to see it full of stuff and gunk. Allowing all that stuff and water to collect in a sump is a recipe for clogged filters and likely IP or injector damage.

 

Now a days I don't think water/junk in your fuel is near as common as it was in the 80's, unless you buy it from the oldest cheapest station in town.

The filter should collect any water in the bottom even without a water separator. All it adds is a drain. My water separator had been bypassed for years and I've never gotten into any trouble even getting fuel at the co-op where the tanks are still metal above ground. Maybe I'm just lucky?

 

i do not have water issues because my pickups are both broke at 1/4 tank. but on the big trucks we have to drain the sump every month to get rid of the crud that gets in the tanks. a 4 inch cap lets in surprisingly large amounts of crap, even if you pay attention when fueling. our tank and pump in the shop is heavily filtered, and we only buy fuel from a high volume dealer..
the shop tank is always clean of contamination, it is just inherent with the large cap that crap will get into the tanks.

 

If you roll with a duralift e-pump, it comes with a spiffy cleanable filter setup and clear housing with filters out any gunk or major particles before the pump.

 

What does it filter down to? Micron size.
There is 3 sizes for the Racor. 2, 10, and I think 15 micron.


I have used the 2 micron for many rears. Amazing how black the element gets after about 15K miles.


Even if I used the E-pump, I would still have a Racor in line.
There are other good after market filters also.




Charlie

 

We... uh.... don't want to know....