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Ficm question?

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Old Feb 25, 2017 | 06:44 PM
  #1  
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Ficm question?

So after replacing all injectors, I was getting a rough idle and drive. Got an imbalance on 5 & 4. Cleared out codes and 5 still showed. The guy doing my work and I couldn't trace it to anything so we thought well maybe we got a bad one. Did fail the buzz test. So got a warranty one and put in. Wouldn't you know it's still not running quite right. Only thing we can think of is maybe the ficm is at the start of going out. Voltage reads good still though. Staying constant at 47/48. Is more noticeable to run rough when starting from cold then smooths out but you can still make out/feel an injector going in and out.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2017 | 09:46 PM
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The way to test the FICM and to determine it is going bad or not, is to let the truck cold soak overnight, not plugged in.

Turn on your live data scanner before turning on the truck, then turn the truck to KEY ON but ENGINE OFF. Watch the voltage from there, then after a minute, turn the engine on, and continue to watch the voltage. Then report back with what the voltage was.

ANYTHING 48.5-45 volts is good. If it ever goes below 45 volts, you need to get that FICM repaired.


Why did you replace all the injectors?


What oil are you running? Weight?


Tell us the specifics about this truck.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2017 | 10:20 PM
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Replaced injectors few weeks ago after one dropped out. When the heads were done back in October we discovered that my lift pump was not working, not sure how long but was advised injectors likely wouldn't last long. Along with injectors rebuilt the oil rails (nipple cups, dummies, stand pipe) they were also well worn. I made it 5,000 miles after the heads before doing this latest go around and supplier was running a deal on the full set of injectors. While I nursed it along for the past few months I could only start the truck cold, but it ran great. This came up right away with the injector swap.
​​​​i did replace batteries and alternator back last spring, maybe April/May. Noticed my batteries getting weak and they were 4yrs old. Then alternator went a few weeks after, I did catch that very fast and didn't drive on it since it came up in my driveway.
I've always run T-6 oil.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2017 | 10:37 PM
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These injectors are Ford remans, correct?
 
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Old Feb 26, 2017 | 06:06 AM
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Stone cold this morning with the brief return of winter. Fmp stayed at 47-48.5 during start of, FLP 11-12. After the glow plugs went of FmP stayed the same FLP went up to 12.5-13.5. Bumping up the rps made no difference other than smoothing out the engine.
​​​​​​
 
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Old Feb 26, 2017 | 07:28 AM
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Swap that injector with a different location. See if the misfire moves with it.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2017 | 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by oxt127
Stone cold this morning with the brief return of winter. Fmp stayed at 47-48.5 during start of, FLP 11-12. After the glow plugs went of FmP stayed the same FLP went up to 12.5-13.5. Bumping up the rps made no difference other than smoothing out the engine.
​​​​​​
Well, at least you answered your FICM question. It's in good shape.


Originally Posted by xcrsp440
Swap that injector with a different location. See if the misfire moves with it.
Although I haven't had to deal with injector replacement........yet, I would think this is a good way to see if it is the same injector giving you problems. Of course I don't know hoe labor intensive it is to change them out
 
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Old Feb 26, 2017 | 08:31 AM
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This problem only appeared after replacement of the injectors?
 
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Old Feb 26, 2017 | 09:32 AM
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Yes, only after injector replacement. I don't see the point in changing an injector for a third time when we are fairly certain the problem does not lie with the physical injectors. After taking out the one injector that codes were pointing to everything is passing a buzz test and cylinder contribution test. Almost like something is failing but not enough to trigger a code of any kind even though the human can tell it's not running 100%.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2017 | 10:01 AM
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While your voltage numbers in and out of the FICM are good, it could be that the logic side of the FICM is damaged. Any chance you could install this FICM in another truck to isolate it? If not, we could always put it on our bench for you.

Ed
 
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Old Feb 26, 2017 | 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by FICMrepair.com
While your voltage numbers in and out of the FICM are good, it could be that the logic side of the FICM is damaged. Any chance you could install this FICM in another truck to isolate it? If not, we could always put it on our bench for you.

Ed
So many overlook this. Unfortunately for the home mechanic the best test, like Ed said, is to swap out the FICM for a known good one.
There was a thread here last week where a member suffered through this and in the end it was a bad FICM even though voltages were fine.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2017 | 10:08 AM
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Ed, was going to give you guys a call about this just haven't had the time yet to do so. I don't mind even having it repaired/swapped out but had some questions pertaining to the PHP tunes as I already have one on my current ficm but I really need the truck daily for work.

There isn't really a truck to swap it with easily.
The guy I work on this with has said they could drop out one at a time and still look good, he just doesn't have a good one right now either.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2017 | 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by oxt127
Ed, was going to give you guys a call about this just haven't had the time yet to do so. I don't mind even having it repaired/swapped out but had some questions pertaining to the PHP tunes as I already have one on my current ficm but I really need the truck daily for work.

There isn't really a truck to swap it with easily.
The guy I work on this with has said they could drop out one at a time and still look good, he just doesn't have a good one right now either.
If you can't afford the downtime,have a tune on your FICM now, order up a replacement tuned FICM on exchange and then return a FICM to us that has a tune on it, we'll credit you the $150 you paid for the tune.

We try to keep it easy!
 
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Old Feb 26, 2017 | 12:47 PM
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I was thinking about doing the same with my FICM as far as sending in to have it checked out. FICMRepair has been great.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2017 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by oxt127
Yes, only after injector replacement. I don't see the point in changing an injector for a third time when we are fairly certain the problem does not lie with the physical injectors. After taking out the one injector that codes were pointing to everything is passing a buzz test and cylinder contribution test. Almost like something is failing but not enough to trigger a code of any kind even though the human can tell it's not running 100%.
What brand injector did you go with? Stock size?
 
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