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So I just bought a 2013 f250 in which it already had what they declared a 8 inch rancho lift but I looked up rancho lifts for the truck and the highest rancho lift they make for the truck is 5 inches so after further inspection I noticed a model number and then looked up the model number and turns out it is indeed a 5 inch lift that they hagled into a 8 inch lift and when I say hagled I mean double stacked 4 inch blocks and a 3 inch spacer that they placed under the coil spring brackets. What brought all this to question is the fact that the truck rides very poorly at interstate speeds. So my question is should I be able to remove a block from the rear and the spacer from the front and not have to change anything with the carrier bearing and the casters?
It'a possible, but it's hard to say when a lift has been cobbled together like that. I doubt the truck is aligned properly now if that is how the lift is currently. I'd remove crap and get is aligned especially if you are already having handling issues at speeds.
An alignment is the first thing I did to it and it still drove like the on the high so I don't know if maybe I need a carrier bearing drop kit. But my plan is to pull that all off to the original 5 inch kit and see what happens
An alignment is the first thing I did to it and it still drove like the on the high so I don't know if maybe I need a carrier bearing drop kit. But my plan is to pull that all off to the original 5 inch kit and see what happens
Please post the results of the alignment. 'In spec' can still drive like crap. If you run big rubber I suggest more than 4* caster. Given these measurements, you can predict what it will be when you remove the 2nd set of spacers. The driveline angles can be measured to determine what need to be done, if anything.
Just math. My lift thread has a calculator for all these things you can use, or I can help, if you wish. good luck.
You also mentioned having (2) 4" blocks in the rear. I'm not sure where those would have came from. In no way does a 4" block come factory or would be used in a 5" lift. A proper 5" lift would have a 5" or 5.5" rear block. (2) 4" blocks would equal roughly an 8" lift but should NOT be done by stacking blocks. Stacking blocks is very dangerous and having 8" of stacked blocks and no traction bars is a real bad idea. Lots of axle wrap and potential to separate blocks.
Please post the results of the alignment. 'In spec' can still drive like crap. If you run big rubber I suggest more than 4* caster. Given these measurements, you can predict what it will be when you remove the 2nd set of spacers. The driveline angles can be measured to determine what need to be done, if anything.
Just math. My lift thread has a calculator for all these things you can use, or I can help, if you wish. good luck.
Ok I will try to post these sometime soon so that maybe you can help me figure it out
You also mentioned having (2) 4" blocks in the rear. I'm not sure where those would have came from. In no way does a 4" block come factory or would be used in a 5" lift. A proper 5" lift would have a 5" or 5.5" rear block. (2) 4" blocks would equal roughly an 8" lift but should NOT be done by stacking blocks. Stacking blocks is very dangerous and having 8" of stacked blocks and no traction bars is a real bad idea. Lots of axle wrap and potential to separate blocks.
What size tires on the truck?
Ya that's what I thought as well with the stacked blocks. But the specs of the rancho lift showed that the rear block size at a 3 1/2 inch block. But I have 37 inch tires but switching to 35s shortly