intake manifold fe

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Dec 14, 2003 | 06:03 PM

#16

pcmenten

Posting Guru

Joined: Mar 2002

Posts: 2,070

Likes: 2

From: Boise, Idaho

Quote:

Originally posted by BB
Another trick is to centerpunch along the block surface to give the gasket something to bite into.

Barry

Wow, great idea. I wonder why not take it a little farther and use a cutting wheel or grinder to cut a V or shallow U groove into both the block and manifold surfaces. That would create a channel that the RTV or gasket would be clamped into.

I've heard that the mechanism that causes oil leaks is a hydraulic ramming action; some oil gets splashed onto the gasket and wets and soaks the inside. Then when more oil gets splashed onto this wetted gasket or RTV, some of the force from the splashed oil rams the oil on the wetted gasket through.

This would seem to militate for a splash shield. Take a flat piece of tin about 3/4 inch wide. Cut some tabs that extend halfway across this 3/4" and bend them 90 degrees. Bend the tin to follow the contours of the inside of the manifold/block joint with the tabs extending into the joint. The only vulnerable points will be where the tabs are bent into the shield. Or just rivet shields that hang down from the manifold.

I wonder why they don't try to make some metal core gaskets like they make for valve covers.

Dec 14, 2003 | 09:51 PM

#17

biz4two

Lead Driver

Joined: Sep 2003

Posts: 5,844

Likes: 6

From: Albuquerque

I always use the end seals with my Edel. Performer Intake on my 390, because of the gap issue...but I also use the RTV sealant at the edges of the end seal near the head. Try to cover all the leaky possibilities.

Dec 21, 2003 | 01:31 PM

#18

bob arrington

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Joined: Jul 2003

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From: alaska

i used the end seals on mine with the rtv , they attempted to squeeze out as i torqued them i had the engine out of the truck and used a engine hoist to lower the manifold . , i had some time so i stood there and pressed them into the right position untill the rtv set up. then i let the rtv almost completely dry before i did the final torque. i used the extra time to install the distributer and make sure it rotated freely , something i learned in this forum, with the final torque the seals look really good and the dist. rotates easily. my fe came with a factory splash shiel with holes for the push rods already in it and fitted to the block with tabs that interlock with the head gaskets . this might be an option