intake manifold fe
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From: Texas
intake manifold fe
When installing intake manifold (fe). Do u use end seals or silicone? I have tried silicone but didn't get it 2 seal. I have heard that I should let the silicone skin over before installing intake. Any 1 with information please help. This is on a 69 ford ranger f100 with 360.
Thanks
Jake 69
Thanks
Jake 69
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From: San Diego, CA(best weather in the world)
intake manifold fe
I'm about to replace my cast iron boat anchor manifold with an aluminum one as well. From what I have read, using RTV only is recommended. About a 1/4" wide bead of RTV at each end. I think letting it get a little tacky is a good idea.
I have replaced a couple manifolds on *cough cough* sbc 350's and this how I did it. Never had a problem.
Someone correct me if I'm mistaken.
Dennis
I have replaced a couple manifolds on *cough cough* sbc 350's and this how I did it. Never had a problem.
Someone correct me if I'm mistaken.
Dennis
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intake manifold fe
Use silicone. Just make sure you get that bead tall enough, there is up to 1/8" gap between the block and intake when torqued down. 1/4" bead is ideal, just make sure that measurement is the height not width. Let the silicone skin over before installing intake.
Brian
Brian
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intake manifold fe
I have never used the end seals before. I always throw them in the trash. I just installed an aluminum intake on a 302 and decided to use them for the first time. No leaks, so as long as you do the job right, it won't matter wich way you do it. In my experience with Edelbrock is that their manifolds seem to create a bigger gap to fill. The trick with using end seal is to use glue to hold them in place.
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From: Texas
intake manifold fe
I have not used end seals because I have heard with "FE" engines they tend to work out from between intake&block. due to the wider widths between the fe heads. i have used them on 351w. with no problem.
thanks
jake69
thanks
jake69
Tuned
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From: Dudley, GA
intake manifold fe
If your installing the anchor and use them get some help from a friend or two. It is real easy to push the seal out if the intake isn't installed with TLC. I used them and have had no leaks but it took two people man handling the intake and me guiding them in! I love a stock set ups but can see where an aluminum intake has it's advantages...
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intake manifold fe
Make sure the rtv skins over alot but not hard. You are trying to make a gasket not have it stick the pieces together. I tried using the end seals and they squeezed out when I was torquing.
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From: Texas
intake manifold fe
Thanks y'all for the advice, have'nt tried letting rtv skin over before assembly yet,will have to try that procedure. This is my son Jaob's truck we have alot of work to do yet. But think it will be worth the time learning exp. for both of us. Not to mention prices of new crap out there.
Paul
Paul
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From: Brea CA
Yes, classic sign is the motor will smoke on L or R side depending on where the gasket didn't seal.
I used the end seals because as mentioned the Edel. manifold seems to have a bigger gap to fill. Likewise I glued the bottom down with weatherstrip adhesive. Another trick is to centerpunch along the block surface to give the gasket something to bite into.
Barry
I used the end seals because as mentioned the Edel. manifold seems to have a bigger gap to fill. Likewise I glued the bottom down with weatherstrip adhesive. Another trick is to centerpunch along the block surface to give the gasket something to bite into.
Barry
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From: south louisiana
I used a set of Felpro cork end seals the other day on my 5.0 ( they were the only thing available in ny shop and I didn't feel like another trip to town) these had a wonderful new feature, they had an adhesive on the bottom side, just peel the paper off and stick them in place, they won't budge once they're stuck. I'm sure the FE gaskets should have the same feature, as long as you get a set that isn't 20 years old.