I'm curious to what others have done with the interiors of their enclosed trailers.

I picked up an aluminum framed 7x14 v-nose enclosed trailer with an extended 12" roof, ramp door and camper style side door. I purchased it to pull /store my polaris ranger (got tired of the open trailer and how much beating the ranger was recieving on the trailer).

I'm going to go with etrack on the floors and walls. It also may become my fish house in the future as well...but i need to figure out what to do with the floor first. I'll just paint the walls with a basic white paint.

I received a quote for linex of the trailer of $8 per square foot...around $1400 all said and done....definitely not happening

I'm considering a g-coin floor mat, but i think that it will not lay right and warm temps will cause it to well up and wrinkle at the doors. Around $150 but will not be wash out able per say.

not interested in floor tile or tread plate (way too slippery in the winter or rain)

I've heard pretty good things about the deck restore product. I figure my cost in materials would be around $125.

Has anyone tried the deck restore type of products in a enclosed trailer before? Are you able to wash out your trailer? How well does it hold up?

I'll try and get some pics of the trailer in the next day or two.

 

What about bedliner on the floor of the trailer?

I customized a trailer similar to yours for a Boy Scout Troop. Shelves, propane storage, etc. Plywood on the walls then shelve standards on the plywood.

I'm planning to put e-track down in my toy hauler. The challenger there is finding enough spots to anchor the e-track to frame instead of just the floor.

 

I ordered mine with the aluminum tread plate floor and ramp door and couldn't be happier. Yes, I read about how slippery it is when wet but I haven't found that to be a problem. I haven't slipped or had any trouble loading the zero turn when the floor surface is wet. Well worth the $375.00 that it cost to have done at the factory and I didn't have to mess with it. I just wasn't interested in a rough gritty floor or any floor for that matter that required constant maintenance. I mop the floor with warm water then throw a towel in the floor and use the sponge mop to push the towel around to dry the floor.

The trailer is used primarily as a base camp. The first thing I did when I got it was to remove all of the plywood from the walls and ceiling and install polyiso insulation. I now have R7 in the walls and R12 in the ceiling and the ramp door. Then I installed a 3 Dog wood stove with a 5" Dickinson deck iron through the roof. I can remove/install the stove and vent in about 10 minutes as needed.



Good luck in whatever you decide.

 

I priced out linex at about $1400 to complete the door, floor and 1' up the wall.

Way too expensive. Almost 30% of the cost of the trailer.

I like the idea but it's cost prohibitive. It also does nothing for the underside protection. You're also screwed if you want replace a floor panel or bring it up for some reason.

I'm considering something like Herculiner roll on bedliner as well. At least this way a guy can touch it up if necessary.

 

I forgot to mention that I was thinking of sealing the underside as well.

Heres an example of the mat I'm considering. The only issue is what do I do with it when I place my etrack down. I guess I would have to glue it down?

http://www.menards.com/main/flooring-rugs/utility-flooring/g-floor-garage-floor-cover-protector-76-x-17/p1444425397322.htm

 

The flooring you have picked out should work fine. If you install it on a warm summer day after the material has laid out in the sun, wrinkles should be a non issue. You could ask the vendor for a suggestion as to what product to glue it down with. I personally wouldn't use contact cement though, you'll never get it up if the need ever arises to replace it.

I'm still on the fence on on sealing the floor from underneath. If moisture happens to find it's way into the wood and it's completely sealed up, it's going to lead to a soft floor and possible rotting. Also check your side door and ramp door for drain holes in the bottom. If it doesn't have any, drill a few. You will thank me later.

Be Good!

 

Decided that I'm going to go with the mat. I'll cut it to fit and then use the etrack to hold it down. On the perimeter I'll use carpet tape to hold it down. On the door I'll use one gallon of the deck restore tinted to match the mat.

ill paint the walls white to brighten up the interior.

Then ill place two rows of etrack all the way around the walls.

ill post pictures as I progress.

 

Got my etrack ordered. Man o man the stuff isn't cheap but I ordered enough to run two strips all the way around the trailer.

got to get the mat yet and some paint and trim for the walls.

 

I would suggest epoxy paint. That way it will be water proof and can be washed.

 

I used oil based porch paint in my car hauler. 2 coats with silica sand on the wet first coat on the ramp for traction when wet. It's last VERY well with easy wipe ups of fluid spills. It hasn't lifted with tires etc. but won't be as durable as a bedliner etc. then again touchups are easy.

 

that looks nice!

what is the silver edge pieces??? 1/2 aluminum angle?

 

Yes that's exactly what it is.

As with anything prep is the key. Sanded and swept/wiped the entire trailer.

 

Now I like your trailer what size and brand is it? I think the floor looks great and I agree prep is key! Now with a oil base paint, when I am painting I do 3 or 4 coats. I over reduce the first coat and let it soak in the wood. That way you get a better bite into the wood. Then I do 2 or 3 coats to seal the wood. I work on boats and have found oil base works great for sealing up the wood. In most cases I get between 10 to 15 yrs before wood starts rotting. Actually I some pieces of wood on my boat that I have painted 20+ yrs ago and still good.But when I am doing it I seal all 4 sides so if you are doing only one side the wood can still rot from the other sides. Mind you I haven't had to add sand since floors always get coated with carpet or flooring.

Now bedliner would work but I don't think it would bond to the wood as well as oil based paint. Epoxy garage floor coating is not a good product for wood. Since epoxy dries hard and the wood floor will flex. Also I have seen rubber flooring 8.5' wide sold by the foot. But by the time you buy the glue the rubber flooring can get costly.

 

realizing you are going with the mat, I did my 7x16 race trailer for about $330 with Grizzly Grip. works great repelling water, oil, fuel, etc. the only issue I have had with it is when I rolled the car into the trailer with hot, sticky tires straight off the track & left it there over night then. now I put carpet squares down under the tires. super easy to do.

Truck Bed Liner Bedliner Color Camper Top Repair Non Slip

 

I have been waiting for the temps to raise so I have not done anything yet.

i was all prepared to go with the rubber mat, but left with Dutch Boy HD porch paint for the floor and white for the walls.

I hope to roll out the coating this weekend and hopefully get the etrack placed the following week.