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6.0 Took a Dump

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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 06:36 AM
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6.0 Took a Dump

Excursions developed a bad miss yesterday, then a shake, and finally lost all power and I coasted into a parking lot. Had my uncle tow me to the garage and there it sits until I can figure it out. I checked the degas bottle and it is dry. Woohoo
 
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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 07:51 AM
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Have you done studs and stuff in it yet?
 
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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by nmclella
Excursions developed a bad miss yesterday, then a shake, and finally lost all power and I coasted into a parking lot. Had my uncle tow me to the garage and there it sits until I can figure it out. I checked the degas bottle and it is dry. Woohoo
Check compression numbers on all cylinders before you spend a dime on anything. Cheap and relatively easy.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Snowseeker
Have you done studs and stuff in it yet?
EGR delete, other than that no studs. First thing my uncle said to me was "I told you so" as when I bought it he said "get rid of that thing, it's a grenade with the pin half pulled".

Originally Posted by Nicmike
Check compression numbers on all cylinders before you spend a dime on anything. Cheap and relatively easy.
Contribution test came back fine with autoenginuity. Injectors all buzzed fine as well.


Thanks for the replies guys.


I think the problem was two fold, please correct me if you think I am going down the wrong path. Turns out the alternator was putting out like 18 volts and fires were starting (literally melted a lead connector at the battery terminal and looks like the insulation/plastic at the alternator was about to catch fire), I don't know if this could cause the injectors to go nutty but I've switched out the alternator with a new one, also going to a 135 amp over the stock 110 in the process, and it seems to be idling fine now.

In terms of the lack of power and then death, I think it is the turbo sticking. Has been barking at me a bit lately, and I think its finally just seized. Will tear into it to see if I can clean up the unison ring tomorrow.

In terms of the coolant leak, it looks like all that talk about those $60 EGR delete kits' coolant hose sections being junk are true. That seems to be the leak point as the engine valley around it is soaked.. After some research, there was no change in the coolant colour/texture (which I'm told can happen with a headgasket) and there was no overflow from the degas bottle which I've read happens when the system is over-pressurized. So I think my heads are fine - thankfully.

Also, if you ever need a hand getting your serpentine belt off and don't want to spend the time using a breaker bar on the tensioner, just get fellow FTE member CrewCabLongBox to tag along. I went after the breaker bar and he said "I don't need that" and grabbed the belt with both hands and just lifted it off effortlessly. Did the same thing when we were putting it back on - never seen it before. Strong guy.

Alternator terminal.



Terminal connector.



Engine valley.

 
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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 07:50 PM
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.............
 
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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 08:36 PM
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Cut from the chat/convo thread and moved to it's own tech thread.

Stewart
 
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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by nmclella
Turns out the alternator was putting out like 18 volts and fires were starting (literally melted a lead connector at the battery terminal and looks like the insulation/plastic at the alternator was about to catch fire), I don't know if this could cause the injectors to go nutty[/IMG]
The 6.0 FICM is sensitive to voltage outside of spec and will cause problems you wouldn't think it could cause.

Stewart
 
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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 08:45 PM
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Glad to help today. Funny thing about that video is that I run a moving company, literally true that I lift things up and put them down for a living
 
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Old Feb 19, 2017 | 08:14 AM
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Voltage drop and spikes can play games on these trucks. I was having some issues with mine due to one of my alternators going bad. One alternator still worked but was unable to keep everything going right. Eventually resulted in a new FICM, 220 amp alternator, and new batteries. Also replaced all the power cables with high quality 1/0 cable while in there. Good luck.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2017 | 08:41 AM
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Did you have anything providing actual engine coolant and oil temps (and volts) when it died?

Scangauge 2 is such a cheap investment, would let you keep eye on actual voltage, trans temp, oil temp, and water temp in real time (as well as ficm voltage and boost and a million other things).

6.0's don't like being overheated. I think yours overheated. There are plastic parts that can melt and 6.0's are notorious for passing a compression test and then pissing coolant out the degas the first time you drag a boat over a mountain afterwards. The heads dont leak until they are warm and the tty head bolts have some pressure stretching them.

Keep an eye on it. Don't wanna be negative Nancy but you're not out of the woods yet. Fix that coolant leak Pronto. It's a piece of cake.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2017 | 09:19 PM
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I have torque, unfortunately it was off as I was stop and go shoveling bus stops and I didn't bother turning it on. Stupid me.

I'll tear the oil filter off tomorrow to check for any signs of plastic/melting/etc. I agree that it sounds like it could have overheated, so I'll investigate this where I can.

Tore into it a bit tonight after work, got the turbo out and cracked it open. I can see why it seized - wow is it ever sooty.




Going to clean it tomorrow and also fix the coolant leak. With the amount of soot I'm feeling like a rogue injector might be the source of my rough idle and turbo issues, however have not been blowing any smoke at all.

I appreciate the responses so far.

Thanks,

Nate
 
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