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Alternator 2003 6.0

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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 11:56 AM
  #1  
Power Stroke 7107's Avatar
Power Stroke 7107
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Alternator 2003 6.0

I would appreciate any help diagnosing an electrical issue. I have a 2003, 6.0 superduy 4x4. While towing a 5th wheel, some of my electrical components shut down (speed/tac, A/C) and ultimately, the truck stopped running (fuel injectors?). The truck clicks when I try to start it. I replaced both batteries, and it ran like a champ for about 100 miles. Then, the transmission had trouble shifting, and I'm now getting the clicking noise when I try to start it up (it starts with a jump).

I have 130k miles on the truck, and I have not touched the belt, tensioner or alternator yet. I am planning to change the belt and possibly the tensionner, but I am wondering if there is a way to test if the problem is my alternator. Any advice?

Also, since it is pretty tight in the engine compartment, does anyone have a picture of where the tensioner is located? I understand from other posts that I can use a 1/2 breaker bar to release tension from the tensionner, and there may be a tab to use to hold it in place.

Also, I tend to make a big job out of something small. Does anyone know what exactly I will need to remove to make enough room to remove the belt?
 
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 01:53 PM
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It sounds like the alt. is bad. You can remove it and have the local parts store test if for you..most will do this for free (Advanced Auto, Pep Boys, O'Rielly). As far as the belt and tensioner I am not sure that there are any tricks to this just a pain in the butt. The reason why the truck ran for 100 miles is that it was running off the batteries and the alt. was not charging them and you are correct without the right voltage the truck will shut down a little at a time. Hope that helps you some.

Sarge
 
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 03:36 PM
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There should be a diagram on the plastic shroud above the intercooler. If not I think it's just below the alternator. When I replaced my alternator I just muscled the belt off and back on.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Sarge261
It sounds like the alt. is bad. You can remove it and have the local parts store test if for you..most will do this for free (Advanced Auto, Pep Boys, O'Rielly). As far as the belt and tensioner I am not sure that there are any tricks to this just a pain in the butt. The reason why the truck ran for 100 miles is that it was running off the batteries and the alt. was not charging them and you are correct without the right voltage the truck will shut down a little at a time. Hope that helps you some.

Sarge
I quote with Sarge, it sounds like your alternator for sure. I think you don't even have to remove it from the truck, if you have a chance to drive there (Autoparts Store, etc. ) they can check your charge.
To get to the tensioner the trick is to remove the passenger side battery, and you have more room to work with. It still a PITA, but way easier.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 07:06 AM
  #5  
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If you look real close at the tensioner you can see or feel a spring loaded tab that will lock it in the loose position.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2008 | 06:24 PM
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Thanks everyone. I replaced the alt and belt. The truck runs great, but I needed two vehicles to jump start it.

Getting the belt off was easy, with just a little muscle. I had to get the 1/2 inch breaker bar into the socket hole on the tensioner in order to get the belt back on. You're right, this was the toughest part of the job. My 15-year-old and I took turns trying to get the socket wrench in the hole. I'm proud to say he got it.

Weaving the new belt back in place goes quick with one guy working from the top of the engine and one from below.

Thanks everyone for your responses.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 08:53 PM
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I have a 03 and i have to replace my ALT ever two years. and ya I had same trouble , like gauges , radio , no window , etc then truck shuts off
 
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 09:09 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by Power Stroke 7107
Thanks everyone. I replaced the alt and belt. The truck runs great, but I needed two vehicles to jump start it.

Getting the belt off was easy, with just a little muscle. I had to get the 1/2 inch breaker bar into the socket hole on the tensioner in order to get the belt back on. You're right, this was the toughest part of the job. My 15-year-old and I took turns trying to get the socket wrench in the hole. I'm proud to say he got it.

Weaving the new belt back in place goes quick with one guy working from the top of the engine and one from below.

Thanks everyone for your responses.
Keep an eye on your ficm. they are like $700 you will be getting one soon, if the truck starts to feel like it is missing, you get to replace the ficm, yea!
 
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 09:22 PM
  #9  
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????

why do you say that ? what would lead you to think the computer is going out ? or what were you talking about ?
ficm is that the cpu ?
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 12:04 AM
  #10  
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Low voltage is very bad for the ficm. Thats why it is a good idea to monitor the voltage along with temps..
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 09:33 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by flamebuster
Low voltage is very bad for the ficm. Thats why it is a good idea to monitor the voltage along with temps..
Low voltage = higher current = more heat = bad solder joints in the ficm.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 06:33 PM
  #12  
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OH , ok ya I have had a history with Alternators
but every runs fine just a damm clicking noise
 
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 07:58 PM
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I think I have kinda the same prob. My truck runs fine until I turn on headlights heat radio and wipers. the wipers move real slow and if you hit the highbeams the truck will just shut off. The only thing that had me scratchin my head was it will be fine for days and then it will act up????
 
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 10:24 PM
  #14  
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My 03 6.0 had only one warranty claim since I got it in 05, a faulty alternator. I had intermittant electrical issues two years ago. I checked the running voltage right off the alternator a couple hours after recharging the batteries with a charger. It measured only about 11.8 volts. When running you should measure 13.5 to 14 volts. Moral of the story is the these alternators don't neccessarily completely fail; they may drop their output voltage to a point where the truck might start and run, but the batteries never fully charge. Any extra electrical load like AC or headlights will drop the voltage lower and cause obvious problems.
 

Last edited by John_Mc; Nov 11, 2010 at 10:25 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Nov 12, 2010 | 04:40 AM
  #15  
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I thought they always completely failed. I would be happy if that is the only thing it was.
 
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